Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Im on the way home with a trailer and evidently somewhere there is a bad connection to the trailer brakes. The damn "check trailer wiring" error CHIMES in every 3 seconds as the trailer brakes connect for a second and then disconnect causing the dash warning and Chime to go off. How can I disable the chime until I can figure out was is wrong with the trailer? The trailer is empty and brakes are not even needed, yet I am ready to take an ax to the dash as the chime will not stop.

 

In the "trailer" settings app on the dash, for my profile on the trailer there is a "electric brake warning" function that you can turn on and off. Neither position stops the annoying dash warning and associated warning chime. 

 

Is there a fuse? Where is the chime, I am ready to unplug it, cut the wire, anything to stop this noise.

 

Thanks!

Posted

Have u tried setting it to accessory instead of trailer..

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, mkeddie said:

Have u tried setting it to accessory instead of trailer..

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk
 

I have, still chimes in with "Check trailer wiring". Then a couple seconds later, the bad connection "reconnects" and I see in the dash - "trailer brakes connected" (no chime). The a second later - "Check trailer wiring" with it's accompanied chime. It will drive you nuts.

Edited by In2racn
Posted

Sounds like bad connection....and I'm not sure of a good way to bypass... maybe clip the trailer brake wire

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 3/8/2020 at 4:33 PM, In2racn said:

Mine is doing the exact same thing... have you figured ot out yet?

 

I have, still chimes in with "Check trailer wiring". Then a couple seconds later, the bad connection "reconnects" and I see in the dash - "trailer brakes connected" (no chime). The a second later - "Check trailer wiring" with it's accompanied chime. It will drive you nuts.

 

  • 7 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted

I love to get my hands on the stupid ass engineer that developed this “Check Trailer Light” system!!! I’d wrap this wiring harness around his damn neck!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Has anyone found a remedy for this yet? My 2020 Chevy Silverado 2500HD started doing this at end of last camping season and has gotten worse (more frequently / sometimes continuous for an hour). Finally took the trailer back to RV dealership and my truck into Chevy dealership. Each said it wasn’t their problem 😡 Looking for any help to maintain our sanity on next camping trip .. besides playing music very loud. TIA

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,320 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...