Aluminum Driveshaft

diver76 · March 4, 2004

Hey Everybody,

Could use some help, Not sure if dealer is trying to put the wool over my eyes.

Here's the prob. Had a clunk and started to think it was a u-joint. Confirmed with buddy. Dealership also agreed to u-joint. they started to replace. I had done the one joint about 6 months ago but this time there was a snowstorm and well I just felt lazy. When dealer pulled off driveshaft he noticed that joint was seized and also that the fiberglass on the driveshaft was cracked at the seam. He told me and I said I would see about a used one because a new one is a G note. since then it is hard to find a shaft but people have been telling me that the fiberglass is just for noise dampening. Since then I am hearing a clunk again when I put it back into gear. not even 2 weeks later. Does anybody know or have this same problem . Do I need to change the shaft. And do you rally need sealed joints. I did the one before with aftermarket ones and It seems to be doing fine.

Appreciate any help you can give.

Any more info you need let me know and I can describe better.

Thanks

Wayne

atomoverride · March 4, 2004

I think your getting ripped off.....goto another dealership, or some mechanic

bfrd22 · March 5, 2004

I don't believe it's fiberglass, According to a friend of mine,(He cautioned me on these shafts as they are expencive), It's a carbon fiber wrap and it's part of the integral strenght of the shaft. Chev ran a long span on this shaft and needed to do The Carbon Fiber / Alum composit shaft for size and strength or it would center flex pretty bad when spinning.

A Steel staft would have been massive and very heavy due to the distance and rpm they spin at.

I the wrap has split it's bad news. this may be what is causing your ujoint to go as the shaft at speed may be whipping around under there.

A grand is pretty close. But take it to a drive line shop, They're cheaper than a Dealer usually, 6 States is pretty good and I'm sure there are many others. But I remeber when I bought the truck it was told to protect the wrap. Cause it will kill if it starts to peel.

Alum shafts in General are expensive.

ryan632 · March 5, 2004

i had a bent drive shaft on my 99 chevy silverado ext cab z-71 cost was 525 dollars for the shaft, also had to replace the transfer case adapter seal around the transfer case torsion bar and cross member grand total 1800 dollars

Shaners · March 5, 2004

I think I remember that when I had my 2-piece steel shaft replaced with a 1-piece Aluminum shaft under warranty, I was told that it was around a Grand.

sjspor · March 5, 2004

Try this web site...

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/html/lt_aluminum.html

Lots of good info there too...

diver76 · March 5, 2004

Well, Thanks alot, That sure helps out a little bit. I am going to a different mechanic on Wed. He was recommended by a couple of people that I work with. I am glad I didn't do what the guy at the wrecking yard said and that to just take off the cover... that would have screwed me up big time. By just looking at it, it did just feel like fiberglass.

Thanks once again,

Wayne

sjspor- Thanks for the link but unfortunately Up here in Canada it would do me no good. It did give me a few ideas of who to call around here. Thanks

bfrd22 · March 5, 2004

Diver76 I didn't realize you were from Canada. If your in Western Canada The Best Co for Driveshaft work is Pat's Driveline, from the Gear Center Group, I work a lot with Pat's and the Gear Center in Red Deer and Calgary. There in most Bigger Centers, and have shops opening in Ontario. www.gearcentregroup.com

Imkunfused · March 5, 2004

If anyone has any questions on Drivelines, 2pcs, 1 pcs, steel or alum, send me an PM. I used to work at a very large Driveline company in California, and im still packed with quite a bit of knowledge on them.

James