Jump to content

Tahoe vs. Suburban


Recommended Posts

Posted

:D

 

I have a few questions to ask on Tahoes vs. Suburbans.

(Both LT 4x4's - only options added are wheel flares & side impact air bags)

 

1. What is the price differece on average at the dealers between these 2?

(I am under the impression that it is less than $1500)

 

2. What is the difference in fuel economy (MPG)?

(dealer stickers for both state 14 city, 18 hwy mpg)

 

3. Which has the better ride quality?

(I am told Subs ride better due to a longer wheelbase)

 

4. Which has the better 3 row seat comfort?

 

5. Is their much of a difference in handling between the two?

 

thanks,

cjf2

:cool:

Posted

You may want to add one other consideration: How deep is your garage? Some don't fit the Sub.

Posted
:D

 

I have a few questions to ask on Tahoes vs. Suburbans.

(Both LT 4x4's - only options added are wheel flares & side impact air bags)

 

1. What is the price differece on average at the dealers between these 2?

(I am under the impression that it is less than $1500)

 

2. What is the difference in fuel economy (MPG)?

(dealer stickers for both state 14 city, 18 hwy mpg)

 

3. Which has the better ride quality?

(I am told Subs ride better due to a longer wheelbase)

 

4. Which has the better 3 row seat comfort?

 

5. Is their much of a difference in handling between the two?

 

                                        thanks,

                                          cjf2

                                      :cool:

 

 

 

 

 

1. the price diff. should be around 2000 it really depends on what the dealer has in stock, if they have a lot of suburbans they will put some more incentive of them to get them off the lot, if there at lot of tahoe's the price difference will be greater, a good estimate would be about 1500 though because im finding a lot of the dealers have suburbans instead of tahoes on the lot now adays, at least around here

 

2. my friends tahoe gets about 17 mpg will about 50/50 driving like a grandma, but those numbers sound good, id expect maybe 12 around town and 15 if your in a hurry on the freeway

 

3. They both have airride and torsion bars so they should be equal in that category but the suburban will ride better because the frame can flex a little more

 

4. The suburban was made for hauling the 3rd row around, the tahoe they just put it in, so basically its a tight squeeze in the back

 

5. I have the 2500 so it handles and feels like a truck but i imagine the suburban will feel a little more like a truck compared to the tahoe because its longer and bigger, the tahoe will feel more like a car

 

bottom line: if your not towing a lot, if your not hauling a lot, if your not carrying a lot of people then go for the tahoe, but if your carrying 5 or more people on road trips then go for the suburban

 

:P

Posted

My opinion:

 

1. It is less than $1500 difference. It was closer to $800 difference when we were looking.

 

2. At most, given same driving habits, it is identical or less than 1 mpg difference.

 

3. Suburban would have the better ride quality due to the longer wheelbase.

 

4. Suburban hands down. Suburban has a well for third row passenger's feet. Tahoe, when anyone else besides little kids, feels to have knees by your ears when in third row. Plus if you hauled luggage and full passengers, the Suburban would be much better. Very little luggage space with the third row in use in the Tahoe.

 

5. The Tahoe has better manueverability but twitchier handling due to the shorter wheelbase. But in off road situations, the Tahoe is a tad bit better (better turning radius, slightly better ability to not get high centered, etc).

Posted

Dannyukonxl is right : some dealers are trying to move more Tahoes while other want to move more Suburbans.

 

1. $1500-$2000 difference sounds about right.

 

2. When you are dealing with vehicles of this size, the MPG difference is going to be pretty small. Has anyone seriously accused these V8s of getting great mileage? :D I get 13-17 MPG in my 5.3L.

 

3. Subs ride better with the longer wheelbase. Hadn't occurred to me that more frame length also means more flex (absorbs bumps), but that is a factor. In either case, a couple of cases of water (or beer :P ) sitting on the back always smooths out the ride.

 

4. Suburban wins hands down here. :cool: The foot well on the 3rd row makes all the difference. Also, I believe the legroom on both the 2nd and 3rd rows is slightly shorter in the Tahoe. But holy cow is that third row bench HEAVY!

 

5. Tahoe is more parking lot friendly since it turns a little tighter. But since both are the same width, you'll be slithering between doors in either case. Suburban definitely takes some concentration in tight spots - I just park farther away. With Subs, count on doing three point turns when parking to straighten it out :bs: Too bad they don't have Quadrasteer on the 1500s.

 

Other thoughts:

* Suburban is great for carrying lots of people with lots of luggage. If you only need the third row occasionally, then a Tahoe is probably more practical.

* For 2nd row bench owners - beware of the cruddy little cable mount for the tilt/slide right side seat . You might want to ask the salesman to throw in a couple of extra of these since they break easily.

* Mule is dead on about the length of your garage - Subs are 18+ feet vehicles. Add push bars and trailer balls and you can easily cross 19 feet. Fortunately, mine does fit :D !

* Tahoe rear door windows do not roll all the way down - Subs' windows do.

 

Good luck with your purchase decision and make sure to show pics when you get your new truck! :bs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...