Jump to content

photos: moldings GONE


Recommended Posts

Posted

first off: what an INCREDIBLE difference with the moldings gone!!!! i posted some pictures to show. PLUS, i am a new father today, of my second bullmastiff, so i put in some photos. AND ON THE EIGHTH DAY GOD MADE THE BULLMASTIFF

photos

Posted

Looks good. That is one of the first things I did with my truck, taking the mouldings off makes a world of difference.

 

Nice looking dogs too, congrats on the new pup!! :banghead:

Posted

Definitely nice looking. :chevy:

 

Am curious, though... where are you guys parking your trucks at stores now since the door-dingers now have full access to smashing their doors on your sheet metal? No cladding, no protection. :banghead:

Posted
Definitely nice looking.  :chevy:

 

Am curious, though... where are you guys parking your trucks at stores now since the door-dingers now have full access to smashing their doors on your sheet metal?  No cladding, no protection.  :banghead:

 

 

 

 

 

lrymal I found that once the truck is lifted the nerf bars are at perfect height for doors. I no longer dread parking next to people. If they wanna smack the nerf's more power to them. Most people don't want to. :cry:

 

 

 

Killerz Looks great :chevy:

Posted
Definitely nice looking.  :chevy:

 

Am curious, though... where are you guys parking your trucks at stores now since the door-dingers now have full access to smashing their doors on your sheet metal?  No cladding, no protection.  :banghead:

 

 

 

 

 

lrymal I found that once the truck is lifted the nerf bars are at perfect height for doors. I no longer dread parking next to people. If they wanna smack the nerf's more power to them. Most people don't want to. :cry:

 

 

 

Killerz Looks great :chevy:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Unless they are in a truck of a fullsized van to which you moldingless body would be quite naked.

Posted

Snoman, wow another one that you point out how wrong someone is. Your so cool. Anyway my truck without moulding would be succeptable to a van door just as your's with moulding would be succeptable to the same door. Because it would hit the fender. (that's where a van door is near the fenderwell when parked next to a truck. The unprotected (in most cases) fender well Snoman, I can also get dent's from jelous people and morons. Cart's at the right anglewould hit the bed also. Of course there is hail and debris that could hit it also. Thing's on the hiway could also. Dogs, dogs can scratchpaint too. Did I miss any thing?

Posted
Snoman, wow another one that you point out how wrong someone is. Your so cool. Anyway my truck without moulding would be succeptable to a van door just as your's with moulding would be succeptable to the same door.  Because it would hit the fender. (that's where a van door is near the fenderwell when parked next to a truck. The unprotected (in most cases) fender well Snoman, I can also get dent's from jelous people and morons. Cart's at the right anglewould hit the bed also. Of course there is hail and debris that could hit it also. Thing's on the hiway could also. Dogs, dogs can scratchpaint too. Did I miss any thing?

 

 

 

 

The moldings are there aofor a pupose and while they are not full proof they do offer more protection than a naked body. When you also factor in the thin metal they use in trucks today, it is even more critical. The moldings also protect your door when you open it into something as well and I would not pay 30 ot 40 G's for a truck and then make it even easier to ding up. Over the years I have owned trucks both way as they came for factory and without molding they do get beat up a lot quicker. Yes it looks sleeker for a show truck to have no molding but not for a daily driver than has to live in the jungle.

Posted

Geeze, facn8me, don't take this stuff so personally. :banghead: Folks are just adding feedback...

 

Just a little added comment. Again, I think the decladded truck simply looks wonderful. But, in the real world, that truck is somewhat exposed. The hideous looking molding definitely offers some degree of protection.

 

The nerf bars (and also wheel well flairs for the fender areas), add to the protection, but they only assist protecting if the jerk's door is shaped in a way that the nerf bar gets in the way. If the shape is such that the nerf bar doesn't contact the door, then the side cladding will possibly connect and protect the door.

 

My 2003 Silverado doesn't have any dings on it, but if I look at its cladding just right, I see all sorts of small chips and nicks. The cladding definitely blocked *something* and I am sure the nerf bars on that '03 did their job as well.

Posted

I guess my truck sitting 11" higher than your's affords me more protection from the nerfs. I worried when it sat lower. Not much worrying any more. As far as taking it personally, no not really. I offered my opinion from a lifted truck standpoint. And on a lifted truck the nerfs give me about the same protection. I did not say it was the perfect solution. Sno has his right to an opinion also. Even if he's wrong or reaching to prove someone wrong.

Posted
Sno has his right to an opinion also. Even if he's wrong or reaching to prove someone wrong.

 

 

 

 

 

A matter of perception on your part. A raised truck is not immune, maybe a little harder target but still viable. My wife moldingless base Cherokee got whacked good last year where the molding would have been and saved it instead it got dinged but good.

Posted
Definitely nice looking.  :chevy:

 

Am curious, though... where are you guys parking your trucks at stores now since the door-dingers now have full access to smashing their doors on your sheet metal?  No cladding, no protection.  :banghead:

 

 

 

 

 

Hell I park my ride in 2 spots at the veeeeeery back of the lot.....if and when it actually goes to a store. Moulding or no moulding, there will always be some lazy f#$%@er on a beater car that kicks their door open on your truck. My wife drives the burban everyday...with moulding and it's still getting beat up.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 279 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...