Jump to content

Power brake bleeder and/or fluid advice?


Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anone used a power bleeder for their brakes and where did you get yours? I want to replace my brake fluid, and looks like I can get a power bleeder for anywhere from 70-150 bucks on-line. The dealer wants about $85 for a brake fluid change, so I figure I can buy a bleeder and do both my trucks and save money and have the satisfaction of a job done right.

 

I know GM touts their own brake fluid, but I was thinking of using Valvoline syn power fluid. Any advice?

Posted
Has anone used a power bleeder for their brakes and where did you get yours? I want to replace my brake fluid, and looks like I can get a power bleeder for anywhere from 70-150 bucks on-line. The dealer wants about $85 for a brake fluid change, so I figure I can buy a bleeder and do both my trucks and save money and have the satisfaction of a job done right.

 

I know GM touts their own brake fluid, but I was thinking of using Valvoline syn power fluid. Any advice?

 

 

 

 

I bought a motive products pressure brake bleeder with the universal connection. Worked great.

Posted
Has anone used a power bleeder for their brakes and where did you get yours? I want to replace my brake fluid, and looks like I can get a power bleeder for anywhere from 70-150 bucks on-line. The dealer wants about $85 for a brake fluid change, so I figure I can buy a bleeder and do both my trucks and save money and have the satisfaction of a job done right.

 

I know GM touts their own brake fluid, but I was thinking of using Valvoline syn power fluid. Any advice?

 

 

 

 

I also bought a Motive Products American Bleeder Kit from Apex Performance. I highly recommend the power bleeder. Makes for 1 man bleeding in about 10 minutes. Well worth the investment.

Posted

Well, I ordered a brake bleeder from the earlier link. Thanks for the tip! I figure I'll do my 1988 K1500 (which has never been done, except for a little bleeding after changing rear brake cyls. etc) and my 2000 Silverado.

 

I know the manual ssys DOT 3 fluid, but will it hurt to use valvoline synpower fluid? It says it's compatable with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids, and has a higher wet boiling point than regular DOT 3. I like valvoline products.

 

From what I've googled, it looks like some of the DOT 4 fluids will absorb more moisture than DOT 3, but since I will have a bleeder, I figure I can do my brakes once a year or something and have better protection than standard DOT 3.

 

Anyone have any $.02 to add?

Posted

I flushed the system in my truck last year and I used the Synpower fluid. So far, I've had no issues whatsoever. The fluid's getting dark again, so I'm prolly gonna flush again before end of summer.

 

I also bought the Motive bleeder - more important than the time is the savings in aggravation from having to start over when your buddy keeps pumping the pedal instead of holding. :cheers:

 

This is a bit late, but I bought my set last year off ebay - got the pro kit (#250) for $59.99 from cbmtools. Their current price is $61.99.

Posted

I got the American car setup for $65 plus 8.88 shipping. It comes with the rectangular fitting for my 1988 truck and the round adaptor for my 2000 silverado and my wife's toyota sienna. Last time I blead the brakes I had my then 11 and 13 year old girls help me....talk about frustrating! They HATE when I have to bleed the brakes...they would rather clean house and mow the lawn than help me again, lol!

 

If it works as good as has been posted, I'll wonder what I ever did without it!

 

I'll give the Valvoline synpower a try...thanks

Posted
Well, I ordered a brake bleeder from the earlier link. Thanks for the tip! I figure I'll do my 1988 K1500 (which has never been done, except for a little bleeding after changing rear brake cyls. etc) and my 2000 Silverado.

 

I know the manual ssys DOT 3 fluid, but will it hurt to use valvoline synpower fluid? It says it's compatable with DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids, and has a higher wet boiling point than regular DOT 3. I like valvoline products.

 

From what I've googled, it looks like some of the DOT 4 fluids will absorb more moisture than DOT 3, but since I will have a bleeder, I figure I can do my brakes once a year or something and have better protection than standard DOT 3.

 

Anyone have any $.02 to add?

 

 

 

 

I ran the Valvoline in my wife's vehicle. It seemed to hold up pretty well compared to the oem fluid. I still changed it regularly.

 

I've been running the ATE Super Blue and Gold. Since I flush every year, I just use the different color and wait till the color changes when I bleed. I just alternate Blue, Gold year to year. Probably going overboard but hey, I like working on my truck :cheers:

Posted

I got the pressure bleeder today and read the instructions. It calls for pressurizing the tank to that "specified in your owners manual". We'll there's nothing in my manual or in alldata.com. What should I pressurize it to? Maybe 15PSI?

Posted
I got the pressure bleeder today and read the instructions. It calls for pressurizing the tank to that "specified in your owners manual". We'll there's nothing in my manual or in alldata.com. What should I pressurize it to? Maybe 15PSI?

 

 

 

 

15-20PSI is what I use. That thing ROCKS!

Posted

Yes that "thing" does rock! I got some valvoline synpower fluid (4 big bottles at 5.49 ea) and blead all my brakes. As luck would have it, the left front bleeder screw (last one) was stripped, and since I already had a beer or two had to make the wife run to the auto parts store to get a new one...I wonder how much that's gonna cost me!?

 

My old fluid is dark greenish (copper?) and I drained it into a clear 2 liter soda bottle, you cant even see sunlight thru it. So, I'm glad I changed the fluid. I got a few tiny bubbles etc. out of the old fluid, so I'll have piece of mind that I've got good brakes. For anyone who's interested, if you turn the wheels to the right and do the left caliper, and then to the right for the left caliper, it makes it a bit easier.

Posted
For anyone who's interested, if you turn the wheels to the right and do the left caliper, and then to the right for the left caliper, it makes it a bit easier.

 

 

 

 

That's a great tip - you can bet that I'll make use of that!

Posted
For anyone who's interested, if you turn the wheels to the right and do the left caliper, and then to the right for the left caliper, it makes it a bit easier.

 

 

 

 

That's a great tip - you can bet that I'll make use of that!

 

 

 

 

don't you mean turn right to do the left and left to do the right?

Posted

Yes, you are correct. Since the bleeder screws are on the aft portion of the wheel assembly, if you turn the steering wheel to the right it will expose the left caliper. Turning the steering wheel to the left will expose the right caliper. I was also able to make tire spots in my driveway due to this....my wife of course pointed it out.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 284 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...