Jump to content

Lost the connection!


Recommended Posts

Posted

Thought I had a dead rear door speaker in my 02 ECSB. Pulled the door panel, checked speaker, no sound. Bought new 5-1/4 coax Pioneer speakers, hooked one up, still no sound. Ran a jumper from the head back to the speaker to verify the head unit was OK, and it was.

Pulled head unit, found the dark blue wire to the speaker was open. Buzzed it back from the speaker thru the flex tube into the pillar, and it was good.

Looks like I have to run a new wire from the head unit back to the pillar.

 

Has anyone found a similar problem? Perhaps there is a common spot where this wire breaks?

Posted
...Perhaps there is a common spot where this wire breaks?

 

 

 

The wire gets the most abuse in the door jamb where the rubber boot is. Might be able to save yourself a lot of work if yours broke there.

Posted
...Perhaps there is a common spot where this wire breaks?

 

 

 

The wire gets the most abuse in the door jamb where the rubber boot is. Might be able to save yourself a lot of work if yours broke there.

 

 

 

 

Checked there..it was good thru the flex tube into the pillar.

Posted

I'm pretty sure they run to the back of the cab in the raceway under the driver's side threshold panel. It just snaps off. Maybe it got injured there or by the emergency brake.

Posted
I'm pretty sure they run to the back of the cab in the raceway under the driver's side threshold panel.  It just snaps off.  Maybe it got injured there or by the emergency brake.

 

 

 

Great tip...I pulled the threshold panel and the kick panel by the parking brake. Behind the kick panel are 3 connectors, one of which was not snapped tight. It was the connector with the rear speaker wires. Now all my speakers work. Thanks.

Posted

Now there's something you don't see every day...

 

Mission accomplished. :thumbs:

 

I'm glad it worked out. I appreciate being thanked. It was a pleasure helping.

 

Plus now I know there's a rear speaker connector under the driver's side kick panel. Didn't know that.

Posted
Now there's something you don't see every day...

 

Mission accomplished. :thumbs:

 

I'm glad it worked out.  I appreciate being thanked.  It was a pleasure helping.

 

Plus now I know there's a rear speaker connector under the driver's side kick panel.  Didn't know that.

 

 

 

 

Mike, you are very welcome. That's what this forum is all about!

I think there were 3 connectors behind that kick panel, which can be a bother to remove; I broke the plastic/tang thing in the process.

 

I'd like to upgrade the sound system, but don't want to mess with extra parts to make the OnStar work. If those annoying chimes go away that would be blessed. I'm looking at the new Pioneer DEH-P4800MP head unit as a replacement, and I'm open to suggestion about speakers, and I guess a subwoofer will be required to make Mannheim and TSO rock.

Posted
Mike, you are very welcome. That's what this forum is all about!

I think there were 3 connectors behind that kick panel, which can be a bother to remove; I broke the plastic/tang thing in the process.

 

I'd like to upgrade the sound system, but don't want to mess with extra parts to make the OnStar work. If those annoying chimes go away that would be blessed. I'm looking at the new Pioneer DEH-P4800MP head unit as a replacement, and I'm open to suggestion about speakers, and I guess a subwoofer will be required to make Mannheim and TSO rock.

 

 

 

I bought a "last year's" DEH-9400MP on Ebay about a year ago for $320. And I bought a Metra GMRC-02 interface to allow the chimes to continue to work and to preserve the ill-begotten retained accessory power.

 

But the more I experience it (RAP), the more I'm sure it's stupid.

 

If I had it to do over again, I'd only care about the safety implications of the chimes, and not RAP. I'd get the Metra GMRC-01, because it uses its own speaker instead of the driver's side door speaker for the chiming. That would be good, because then I could adjust the Metra speaker (built into the adaptor) volume to a level that's appropriate. The door chime is too loud.

 

Then I'd figure out a way to not have retained accessory power. In my opinion, it's retarded. It's just some engineer's way of making things work differently because they can. It's technology (the self-important "data bus") looking for a reason to exist. Well, they missed the mark on this one.

 

Check the "view vehicles" under my sig. You'll see my DEH-9400MP along with my Cobra CD, demonstrating that despite GM's clunky efforts to do so with "factory" radios, the double-din receiver opening in the dash can be put to good use, holding both the receiver and the CB. (I used a Metra kit to do this.)

 

You'll also see my speaker setup, as it existed about a year back. I've replaced the subwoofer boxes since then, with an Infinity Basslink. I wish I had done that in the first place. Could have saved myself a lot of money and screwing around. The Basslink is excellent.

Posted
Mike, you are very welcome. That's what this forum is all about!

I think there were 3 connectors behind that kick panel, which can be a bother to remove; I broke the plastic/tang thing in the process.

 

I'd like to upgrade the sound system, but don't want to mess with extra parts to make the OnStar work. If those annoying chimes go away that would be blessed. I'm looking at the new Pioneer DEH-P4800MP head unit as a replacement, and I'm open to suggestion about speakers, and I guess a subwoofer will be required to make Mannheim and TSO rock.

 

 

 

I bought a "last year's" DEH-9400MP on Ebay about a year ago for $320. And I bought a Metra GMRC-02 interface to allow the chimes to continue to work and to preserve the ill-begotten retained accessory power.

 

But the more I experience it (RAP), the more I'm sure it's stupid.

 

If I had it to do over again, I'd only care about the safety implications of the chimes, and not RAP. I'd get the Metra GMRC-01, because it uses its own speaker instead of the driver's side door speaker for the chiming. That would be good, because then I could adjust the Metra speaker (built into the adaptor) volume to a level that's appropriate. The door chime is too loud.

 

Then I'd figure out a way to not have retained accessory power. In my opinion, it's retarded. It's just some engineer's way of making things work differently because they can. It's technology (the self-important "data bus") looking for a reason to exist. Well, they missed the mark on this one.

 

Check the "view vehicles" under my sig. You'll see my DEH-9400MP along with my Cobra CD, demonstrating that despite GM's clunky efforts to do so with "factory" radios, the double-din receiver opening in the dash can be put to good use, holding both the receiver and the CB. (I used a Metra kit to do this.)

 

You'll also see my speaker setup, as it existed about a year back. I've replaced the subwoofer boxes since then, with an Infinity Basslink. I wish I had done that in the first place. Could have saved myself a lot of money and screwing around. The Basslink is excellent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Basslink looks intriguing. The reviews I have seen rave about it. I may get one and disconnect the rear speakers (now that I just got them working!) to hook it up.

Then I'll replace the front door speakers with something better than stock.

 

I noticed the Plato equalizer; if you don't mind my asking, are you in the audio field?

Posted
...I noticed the Plato equalizer; if you don't mind my asking, are you in the audio field?

 

 

 

Nope, just a gearhead who walked into the audio toystore one day about 10 years ago and saw that puppy sitting there without its box for $99. I didn't realize I could control each channel individually until after I got it home and had fabricated a power plug for it.

 

My Pioneer head unit has a monaural subwoofer out, which I split and send to both channels on the Plato. I use one channel to trim the signal going to the basslink, and the other channel to trim the signal going to the Aura Bass Shakers. The trim was quite a bit different between the two.

 

I started a thread about 6 months ago about Aura Bass Shakers that shows my install.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • $5.19 for regular...
    • My office is slowly filling with Blazer parts. Getting ready to do the big bang of repairs. Intake (second time), water pump, radiator, hoses, and I'm going to re-seal the timing cover where someone went hog wild with silicone. Might as well, because I don't think that's done right.   There's a local tow yard that I didn't realize also has quite the inventory of junk vehicles. This is an old school junkyard. No waivers. Cash only, you were never here if anyone asks. Don't piss off the owner, or you'll end up in the back of one of those cars, headed for the shredder. And if you see something, don't snitch. Cars stacked double high, wasps nests, trip hazards and junk everywhere. I found a few little odds/ends for my Blazer. The $20 I spent was worth the experience alone. But I was never there. What yard?   I officially love/hate this truck. It's so out of my wheelhouse, roughest vehicle I've ever owned. Every. single. repair. -is so hard-fought, everything that can go wrong, goes wrong. Currently in a hate phase, and kind of wish I was closer to sending it down the road with a lucky new owner, to be honest. Preparing for the day when I tear into this thing...lots of pre-funk with Ibuprofen.   Rock Auto sent me a bad reman rear wiper motor. It was a bear to install. The tailgate in these things has about eleventy-billion fastners and pieces and things that need to be uninstalled/moved just to access the shoddy rear wiper motor. The casing on mine was cracked clean through, btw. Nice, GM, nice. SO I got this new motor installed, hit the switch, I see it wig-wag (without the arm installed) and think I'm golden. Reassemble everything. With the wiper arm installed I gave it one final test. Time to clean up and take the other half out to dinner, collect a paycheck, right?   Nope. I hear the plastic worm gear stripping as the arm hung up. Just like my broken motor. Weak/old and shredding itself internally. I can assist the arm and the range of motion is normal, and it parks correctly. It just doesn't have the poop to actually sweep the arm with a blade on it. Oh, hell. Turned the key off and shut the shop door behind me. I get to do that over again, too.
    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...