Jump to content

Fuel Lines

mblrds

Recommended Posts

mblrds Enthusiast

mblrds

Posted
Posted

Fixing to replace my faulty fuel level sender in the near future. My only concern is taking the fuel lines loose at the tank. Are any special tool(s) needed to take them loose or is it a tool-free disconnect?

 

M.

 

'00 GMC Sierra Z71 Ext. Cab w/5.3

mblrds Enthusiast

mblrds

Posted
  • Author
Posted

If I'm going to go through the trouble of lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank so I can replace the sender I would like to know with a certainty on takeing the fuel lines loose.

In the write up over in Tech Articles taking the fuel lines loose was touched on briefly and not really anything about taking the lines loose.

 

Let me ask this, do the lines need to be loose to gain access to the fuel level sender or can the whole thing stay connected while I pull the module?

 

Hate to go through all the trouble only to find I need a stinking tool. :cheers:

Mr. Smith Enthusiast

Mr. Smith

Posted
Posted
If I'm going to go through the trouble of lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank so I can replace the sender I would like to know with a certainty on takeing the fuel lines loose.

In the write up over in Tech Articles taking the fuel lines loose was touched on briefly and not really anything about taking the lines loose.

 

Let me ask this, do the lines need to be loose to gain access to the fuel level sender or can the whole thing stay connected while I pull the module?

 

Hate to go through all the trouble only to find I need a stinking tool. :cheers:

 

 

 

 

 

Heck the bed is easy to move. 4 bolts if I remember correctly and a connecting plug for the lights. in my 97 I replaced the whole thing so it was pretty simple.

mblrds Enthusiast

mblrds

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Back to the fuel lines, how do they come loose from the top of the module? Did you need a special tool or were you able to take them loose tool-free?

mblrds Enthusiast

mblrds

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Surely anybody that has changed their fuel level sender can answer this very simple question; how did you take the fuel lines loose from the module?

  • 1 month later...
fordsucks2 Enthusiast

fordsucks2

Posted
Posted

Even though this thread is a month old, Before removing the fuel lines, I would recommend relieving the pressure from the fuel system. On my buddies 97 Z-71 we removed the fuel filler cap, pulled the fuel pump relay, pulled the vaccum hose on the regulator and cranked the engine and until it died on it own.

 

Or you could use a fuel pressure gauge and relieve the pressure that way. I think its better to do this so gas won't spray all over the place...gas baths suck :sigh:

chris_kucia Enthusiast

chris_kucia

Posted
Posted

Looks like we have basically the same truck. I wish I had seen this thread last month. Well, just in case you haven't done it yet...

 

IIRC, all the lines use the newer plastic clip connectors. You have to push the fuel line into the receiver to relieve the pressure on the clip, then depress the retainer ears inwards towards the line on the clip so it will release.

 

The receivers probably have o-rings so be sure they don't stick to the lines and come out (and roll away).

 

There are flex lines connecting to the sender, but I doubt they're anywhere close to being long enough. The sending unit is so long that it has to be pulled nearly straight out.

 

I took my bed off and it wasn't particularly difficult. However, if you had to do it by feel without being able to see the connectors, it would be very hard to release the lines. I believe there are tools out there for these connectors, but there's little room to work unless the tank is dropped or the bed is off.

 

BTW, the electrical connectors were standard weatherpack, if memory serves.

 

Also, the top of my tank and the sender on my truck were coated with mud, dirt and debris. Not a huge deal, but you'll want to plan on cleaning up that area as best you can before exposing the inside of the lines or tank to that mess. If you have access to a source of compressed air, that's probably very helpful to blow that gunk out of there. May even want to wash it with soap/water or brake cleaner and dry it off before cracking the seal on anything.

 

 

Also, the sending unit is retained in the tank by the standard GM locking ring. There are tools for that, but a hammer and blunt chisel (preferably brass - no sparks) can be used if you are careful and take your time to keep the locking ring mostly centered in the receiving pocket.

 

 

Releasing the fuel pressure before cracking the lines is a good idea, as is disconnecting the battery (don't want any sparks in that area).

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 415 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By newdude · Posted

      This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • newdude
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By newdude · Posted

      2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Grumpy Bear
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Coastie05
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Go back to OEM wheels. 
    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...