Fuel Lines

[mblrds]

Fixing to replace my faulty fuel level sender in the near future. My only concern is taking the fuel lines loose at the tank. Are any special tool(s) needed to take them loose or is it a tool-free disconnect?

 

M.

 

'00 GMC Sierra Z71 Ext. Cab w/5.3

[BRZ71]

I think it is just a threaded compression fitting like on the fuel filters, and the fuel rail.?.?

[mblrds]

If I'm going to go through the trouble of lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank so I can replace the sender I would like to know with a certainty on takeing the fuel lines loose.

In the write up over in Tech Articles taking the fuel lines loose was touched on briefly and not really anything about taking the lines loose.

 

Let me ask this, do the lines need to be loose to gain access to the fuel level sender or can the whole thing stay connected while I pull the module?

 

Hate to go through all the trouble only to find I need a stinking tool.

[Mr. Smith]

If I'm going to go through the trouble of lifting the bed to get to the fuel tank so I can replace the sender I would like to know with a certainty on takeing the fuel lines loose.

In the write up over in Tech Articles taking the fuel lines loose was touched on briefly and not really anything about taking the lines loose.

 

Let me ask this, do the lines need to be loose to gain access to the fuel level sender or can the whole thing stay connected while I pull the module?

 

Hate to go through all the trouble only to find I need a stinking tool.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Heck the bed is easy to move. 4 bolts if I remember correctly and a connecting plug for the lights. in my 97 I replaced the whole thing so it was pretty simple.

[mblrds]

Back to the fuel lines, how do they come loose from the top of the module? Did you need a special tool or were you able to take them loose tool-free?

[mblrds]

Surely anybody that has changed their fuel level sender can answer this very simple question; how did you take the fuel lines loose from the module?

[fordsucks2]

Even though this thread is a month old, Before removing the fuel lines, I would recommend relieving the pressure from the fuel system. On my buddies 97 Z-71 we removed the fuel filler cap, pulled the fuel pump relay, pulled the vaccum hose on the regulator and cranked the engine and until it died on it own.

 

Or you could use a fuel pressure gauge and relieve the pressure that way. I think its better to do this so gas won't spray all over the place...gas baths suck

[chris_kucia]

Looks like we have basically the same truck. I wish I had seen this thread last month. Well, just in case you haven't done it yet...

 

IIRC, all the lines use the newer plastic clip connectors. You have to push the fuel line into the receiver to relieve the pressure on the clip, then depress the retainer ears inwards towards the line on the clip so it will release.

 

The receivers probably have o-rings so be sure they don't stick to the lines and come out (and roll away).

 

There are flex lines connecting to the sender, but I doubt they're anywhere close to being long enough. The sending unit is so long that it has to be pulled nearly straight out.

 

I took my bed off and it wasn't particularly difficult. However, if you had to do it by feel without being able to see the connectors, it would be very hard to release the lines. I believe there are tools out there for these connectors, but there's little room to work unless the tank is dropped or the bed is off.

 

BTW, the electrical connectors were standard weatherpack, if memory serves.

 

Also, the top of my tank and the sender on my truck were coated with mud, dirt and debris. Not a huge deal, but you'll want to plan on cleaning up that area as best you can before exposing the inside of the lines or tank to that mess. If you have access to a source of compressed air, that's probably very helpful to blow that gunk out of there. May even want to wash it with soap/water or brake cleaner and dry it off before cracking the seal on anything.

 

 

Also, the sending unit is retained in the tank by the standard GM locking ring. There are tools for that, but a hammer and blunt chisel (preferably brass - no sparks) can be used if you are careful and take your time to keep the locking ring mostly centered in the receiving pocket.

 

 

Releasing the fuel pressure before cracking the lines is a good idea, as is disconnecting the battery (don't want any sparks in that area).