Intake mod, 2006 sierra 1500 4.8L

[Alabama-man]

Anyone here connected a K&N filter and MAF sensor directly to the throttle body? Having trouble finding the correct couplings and filter and I don't want to hack any of the stock parts. Want to have the option of returning to stock in the future. Also, I'm aware of all the cold air intake options but I'd perfer the straight hook-up, no intake tube or air box.

[Z'06]

Interesting - I have not heard of doing it this way. Assuming the MAF sensor even has enough slack to move over that far, it seems like engine vibration would be your biggest issue to worry about, not to mention heated intake air.

 

You could call Volant and ask for the nice sleeve they ship in their kits for the downstream side of the MAF connection.

 

I would doubt that the gains, if any, would be noticeable anyway relative to a nicely formed tube such as those provided by the intake kits. Check out the Airraid Jr. kits if you are not yet comfortable trashing your stock intake.

[torx]

Anyone here connected a K&N filter and MAF sensor directly to the throttle body?  Having trouble finding the correct couplings and filter and I don't want to hack any of the stock parts.  Want to have the option of returning to stock in the future.  Also, I'm aware of all the cold air intake options but I'd perfer the straight hook-up, no intake tube or air box.   

 

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Interesting idea. What is the outside diameter of the MAF on the air filter side? You might be able to get a filter with a mouth that fits right on the MAF. Then use a silicone hose connection to connect the MAF to the throttle body. You could also just get a mounting plate that allows a larger filter to mount to the MAF. The problem I see with this is supporting the MAF and filter. Also this is not protected from the engine compartment heat like the cold air box.

[Alabama-man]

Thanks for the input, sounds like going with a cold air intake may have to do. One of the main problems in using a direct hook up is the size of the MAF sensor at approximately 4 inches and that it doesn't bolt up directly to the throttle body. The whole assembly with a 5-6 inch filter front to back is ~10 inches and at that length stability is an issue without support. It it weren't for the MAF sensor, this mod would be a piece of cake.

[5.3almnblk]

I have done this, the intake temperature will be hot only at idle but when moving over 15mph the air starts to get cold, i left the bottom part of my airbox in and dont have an issue with the filter or maf hitting the box i recomend this due because its cheap and sounds awesome. If you can hold i can take a picture and post it tomorrow.

[Alabama-man]

Thanks, I think it would help to see how you made this modification.

[Rolandd]

Thanks for the input, sounds like going with a cold air intake may have to do.  One of the main problems in using a direct hook up is the size of the MAF sensor at approximately 4 inches and that it doesn't bolt up directly to the throttle body.  The whole assembly with a 5-6 inch filter front to back is ~10 inches and at that length stability is an issue without support.  It it weren't for the MAF sensor, this mod would be a piece of cake. 

 

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You really want to have the cold-air intake system functioning properly, however you make it work. Hot air is less dense. The MAF is designed to figure out how much air is going into the engine so that based on load and rpm fuel delivery can be calculated. When the engine receives hot air, the ECM will deliver less fuel to compensate for what it perceives to be less air. The net result will be similar to running the engine at high altitude--the air/fuel mix will be correct but you will loose performance.

 

I am not sure of the design of the newer GM MAF sensors. The older MAF sensors were a piece of heated tungston wire stretched across the intake air stream. The amount of air entering the engine was determined by how much the tungston was cooled as measued by the change in resistance of the wire, which is proportional to temperature. These units are probably affected by vibration in the long run, so that if the unit is mounted to the engine instead of the chassis you could shorten its life. Also, because these units are heat driven, putting them on top of the engine instead of away from it could fool the computer and change you mixture ratios adversely affecting performance.

 

If you want to attempt home-grown performance mods on a MPFI engine you probably will want to find some good books on how the MPFI system works for these trucks. You can do a tremendous amount with these engines to improve performance, economy, etc. However, because these fuel injection systems are more refined, it is also easily possible to adversely change the performance by fooling the computer into a mode that you don't want. The worst example I saw of this was some one who installed a 160 deg thermostat in an S-10 Blazer for summer tow duty. The computer never got out of warm-up mode, which yielded 8 mpg and a melted cat before the problem was fixed.

 

Good luck with the mods!

[Alabama-man]

Thanks for the good information. I thought someone might have tried this mod since its essentially the standard corvette cold air intake system. Think I'll take the path of least resistance and buy a kit.

[C & A s Dad]

I would strongly suggest that you look into True Flow's CAI system. I reserched this till I was blue in the face and determined that I was not willing to give up filtering ability for more flow which is what happens with a cotton gauze filter and I also knew I did not want an open element. Take a look at True Flow, their system makes sense, HP and TQ and is very high quality.

 

Just installed mine this weekend so I cannot yet speak for any MPG increase but I can tell you that I can feel some difference beginning around 3000 RPMs all the way up.

[torx]

I would strongly suggest that you look into True Flow's CAI system. I reserched this till I was blue in the face and determined that I was not willing to give up filtering ability for more flow which is what happens with a cotton gauze filter and I also knew I did not want an open element. Take a look at True Flow, their system makes sense, HP and TQ and is very high quality.

 

Just installed mine this weekend so I cannot yet speak for any MPG increase but I can tell you that I can feel some difference beginning around 3000 RPMs all the way up.

 

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true flow still uses a tackifier and if a dealer wants to get picky they could deny warranty work, most probably wouldn't but you don't want to be that guy that it happens to

 

most of the CAI give more throttle response and hp above about 2500-3000 rpm.

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm

 

How about sharing some of that research with everyone else instead of just posting an opinion and let everyone make the decision that's right for them? Not trying to start a flame or anything just share what information (links) you used to come to your opinion.

 

AEM makes a synthetic weave filter they call Drylock that is not oiled at all and claims it filters better, definitely flows better than the oiled filter, they say it filters down to 1 micron

 

http://trucks.aempower.com/press_events_detail.asp?aid=54