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Serpentine Belt Chrip - 05 Trailblazer


msp789

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I have an '05 Trailblazer, and after I leave my car overnight and it rains or is humid, in the morning for about 15 seconds or so it "chirps". I have had GM replace the belt once already and the noice disappeared for about 3,000 miles. If anyone has any suggestions, I would appreciate it.

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My 2000 4.3 does it. 

 

I don't think its anything to worry about. I suspect the belt just gets damp and squeeks for a couple of seconds.

 

 

 

 

Sorry to bring up an old post but my 1997 Yukon 5.7 does this as well except the chirp doesn't go away right away, if at all, and only when it's really humid out. If the weather's been dry, there's no chirp. I've owned this for three years and haven't had this problem until this past spring when the snow was melting and the rain was falling. It kind of sounds like it's coming from the belt tensioner. Would it pay to replace that and the belt to see if it helps?

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I hope this is not the problem, but it is the only bulletin I found relating:

 

 

Subject: DTC P0014, P0017, and/or Belt Noise - Inspect Actuator Solenoid and Crank End Play - keywords bearing cam chirp damaged debris internal light metal P0106 phaser replacement run SES squeak thrust #PIP3693B - (04/04/2006)

 

 

 

Models: 2005-2006 Buick Rainier

 

2005-2006 Chevrolet TrailBlazer

 

2005-2006 GMC Envoy

 

2005-2006 Saab 9-7x

 

with 4.2L Engine (VIN S - RPO LL8)

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

 

Condition/Concern:

On rare occasions, a rough idle may be encountered with a P0014 and/or P0017 DTC. Due to the rough idle, a P0106 DTC may be stored too. This concern may be due to debris in the camshaft actuator system, which may be caused by a missing camshaft actuator solenoid screen or a worn crankshaft thrust bearing. Typically, this is the result of a camshaft actuator solenoid concern. If this is due to a worn crankshaft thrust bearing, some customers may also comment on a drive belt noise.

 

Recommendation/Instructions:

If this concern is encountered, follow the SI diagnostics and repair as necessary. If the SI diagnostics do not isolate the cause of this concern, ensure that camshaft actuator solenoid screens 1, 2, and 3 are in place as shown below:

 

 

 

 

 

(1) Screen for Advance Pressure to Camshaft Actuator

(2) Screen for Pressurized Oil from Oil Pump

(3) Screen for Retard Pressure to Camshaft Actuator

 

If any of these screens are missing, replace the camshaft actuator solenoid, change the engine oil and filter, and evaluate the concern.

 

If all these screens are present, measure the crankshaft end play to determine if it is within the specification of 0.0044" - 0.0153" (0.112 - 0.388 mm). Typically, if excessive crankshaft end play is causing this concern, it will be obviously out of specification by .050" or more. If crankshaft end play is within specification, replace the camshaft actuator solenoid.

 

If the crankshaft end play is obviously out of specification, inspect the engine block for damage due to contact with the crankshaft. If engine block damage is present, contact the PQC (Product Quality Center) at 1-866-654-7654 for engine replacement authorization.

 

If there is no engine block damage present, disassemble the engine and inspect the following components for damage due to thrust bearing debris in the engine oil: all bearings, all journals, all valvetrain components, all timing components, and the crankshaft

 

Then, estimate what it will cost to replace the oil pump, camshaft actuator solenoid, all damaged parts, and to completely disassemble the engine to thoroughly clean all of the cylinder head and engine block oil galleys with oil galley brushes and soapy water.

 

After the repair estimate is complete, estimate what it would cost to replace the engine and contact the PQC to review these estimates as outlined in 02-07-30-029F.

 

Important: On 2006 models with excessive crankshaft end play, please submit a field product report by following 02-00-89-002D.

 

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

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Thanks for the reply. Is this usually the problem when it is humid and/or rainy only, or would I hear the squeak even in dry weather without the humidity. The noise only happens the first time I start the car up in the moring when there is a high level of moisture in the air. Even if it stays rainy all day long, after that first time of starting up the car, the noise does not happen again. Thanks again.

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My 99 4.3 does this, and ive noticed if you WD-40 the one idler pulley (if thats what its called) then it goes away. Its the pulley that doesnt have the grooves, and usually just rides on the belt (its smooth and flat, like a skateboard wheel). Mine is visibly moving slightly with every squeak...

 

...so maybe thats the source of all our troubles?

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This is what squeaks on my 99. I dont have AC, so i have 2 pulleys, one sits right below where you see that AC Pump. What is this and how much is it to replace?

 

(Sorry to whore up the thread...maybe this is whats bad on yours?)

 

I put a little WD-40 on mine and it went right away.

 

 

4.jpg

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The next time I have the squeaking, I'll have to check the idler pulley. I pulled the belt off last night and the idler pulley seemed to roll pretty smooth. My belt tensioner pulley would maybe spin a full turn and then stop. Is that normal? I tried spraying some WD-40 on it but that didn't seem to help.

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I had the same thing, 3 times. I had the belts replaced twice and the center pully replaced once, They finally replaced the pully to the bottom left of that picture above. The one right next to the altenator. It is in a different place on the 5.3l but it was the squeaker. It has not squeaked in 6 months.

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Same exact thing on my 8.1 motor. Some chirps when damp outside for a few minutes after starting. Idler pulley & tensioner are fine and replacing belts does nothing. I tried some "belt dressing". That seems to quiet it down for a whole 30 seconds or so.

 

If it were a crank end play problem, it wouldn't just make noise when it was damp outside.

 

I still don't know the reason behind the "chirps". Maybe we should all move to the desert! :)

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