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Truck won't move after 4L60E rebuild

dragula

By dragula
in Ask A GM Technician

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dragula Enthusiast

dragula

Posted
Posted

Hello All,

I'm asking for a friend who rebuilt the trans (w/new torque converter and new pump) in his '96 (I think) K1500 5.7/4L60E. He put the trans back in and now the truck won't move at all in any gear. He said it tries at higher rpms but it won't budge.

I suspect something in the valve body wasn't installed right but I'm not sure.

 

Any ideas what to check first? I thought that there might be something that is commonly overlooked. The truck had lost 1-2 gear at first which is why he rebuilt it in the first place.

 

Thanks for any help!

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Hello All,

  I'm asking for a friend who rebuilt the trans (w/new torque converter and new pump) in his '96 (I think) K1500 5.7/4L60E. He put the trans back in and now the truck won't move at all in any gear. He said it tries at higher rpms but it won't budge.

  I suspect something in the valve body wasn't installed right but I'm not sure.

 

  Any ideas what to check first? I thought that there might be something that is commonly overlooked. The truck had lost 1-2 gear at first which is why he rebuilt it in the first place.

 

  Thanks for any help!

 

 

 

 

 

A "classic" mistake is failing to properly seat the converter into the "ears" the drive the front pump. When this happens, they shear off on engine start and you have no pump so not drive or tranny function.

dragula Enthusiast

dragula

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the response. The guy is a mechanic but he doesn't do automatic trans work but I'm sure he knows to seat the torque converter all the way. He didn't mention if it made any noise when he started it. I'll double-check with him regardless.

 

Any other ideas?

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Thanks for the response. The guy is a mechanic but he doesn't do automatic trans work but I'm sure he knows to seat the torque converter all the way. He didn't mention if it made any noise when he started it. I'll double-check with him regardless.

 

Any other ideas?

 

 

 

 

It is a easy mistake to make if you are not carefull as many have done it. It usually will no make any nise to speak off when it snaps the ears off and it is possble for converter to appear seated when it is not. THe prper way to seat it is to rotate it while inserting it until it is fully seat to the point that it has to be pulled forward a bit to bolt to flex plate. For a quick check, disconnect a tranny cooler line and crank it over and if they is not a strong flow of oil from it, the pump is shot. (disconnect the top line and be prepard to catch flow from tank nipple)

dragula Enthusiast

dragula

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks again! I checked with him this morning and he said that he made sure it was seated. He even specifically stated that he had to pull the converter forward to get it to the flywheel so it sounds like that was right. He's working on the truck at my house (but I was gone when he put the trans back in yesterday) so I'll be helping him figure it out this afternoon. I'll check the line pressure first.

 

The reason I suspected something in the valve body was because I rebuilt a TH350 years ago that did the same thing. I found that I had put a cone shaped spring in the valve body in backwards so rather than pushing the valve, it just went over it. The car wouldn't move at all in any gear. When I reversed the spring, it was perfect and lasted another 10 years. :-)

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Thanks again! I checked with him this morning and he said that he made sure it was seated. He even specifically stated that he had to pull the converter forward to get it to the flywheel so it sounds like that was right. He's working on the truck at my house (but I was gone when he put the trans back in yesterday) so I'll be helping him figure it out this afternoon. I'll check the line pressure first.

 

The reason I suspected something in the valve body was because I rebuilt a TH350 years ago that did the same thing. I found that I had put a cone shaped spring in the valve body in backwards so rather than pushing the valve, it just went over it. The car wouldn't move at all in any gear. When I reversed the spring, it was perfect and lasted another 10 years. :-)

 

 

 

 

 

Well I hope it is not the pump for your sake but eliminate the possiblity. Good Luck!

dragula Enthusiast

dragula

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I just came home to check it out. It'll move forward if you rev the engine up to around 1500rpm's but it moves forward very slow. It won't move in reverse at all. When I dropped it down into 1st, I could hear it sounding like it was trying to engage. You know, like gears clicking to go into gear but it never does anything more.

 

Sound like anything specific?

 

Thanks!

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Well, I just came home to check it out. It'll move forward if you rev the engine up to around 1500rpm's but it moves forward very slow. It won't move in reverse at all. When I dropped it down into 1st, I could hear it sounding like it was trying to engage. You know, like gears clicking to go into gear but it never does anything more.

 

Sound like anything specific?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

Did you comfirm pressure/flow?

ozfam4 New Member

ozfam4

Posted
Posted
Were the pump and converter replaced with GM parts??

 

 

 

Same problem Happened to my 95 4l60e after rebuild. I overfilled tranny fluid by about a quart trying to make sure the new t converter was full. This caused the pump to cavatate. Truck wouldn't move until high Rpm and even that was intermitent. If this is your case, remove the cooling line and pump out some fluid. It might take awhile to re-prime the pump. This will also tell you if the pump was damaged.

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