Jump to content

1999 Silverado A/c

daljo

Recommended Posts

daljo Enthusiast

daljo

Posted
Posted

Has anyone changed the A/C clucth on a 1999 Silverado, should be same 99-02.

 

The clutch tools are list Applications: GM V5, DA6, and HR6. I did some searching and it lists my compressor as a HU6. Does this same tool fit to pull the clutch?

Norseman Senior Enthusiast

Norseman

Posted
Posted

Removal & Installation

Delphi/Harrison

To Remove:

 

Clamp a J 34992 or appropriate holding fixture in a vise.

Use thumb screws in order to attach the compressor to the holding fixture.

NOTE: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub or shaft. Internal damage to the compressor may result.

 

 

Compressor clutch plate and hub assembly

 

 

 

 

Ensure that the center screw forces the tip to thrust against the end of the shaft.

Thread a J 33013-B remover/installer tool or equivalent onto the hub.

While holding the body of the remover with a wrench, turn the center screw into the remover body in order to remove the clutch plate and hub assembly (1).

Remove the shaft key.

Retain the shaft key for reassembly.

Remove the rotor and bearing assembly retaining ring.

Install the J 33023-A to the front head.

 

Use the pulley puller J33020 to remove the rotor and bearing assembly

 

 

 

 

Install the J 33020 into the inner circle of slots in the rotor.

Turn the J 33020 clockwise in the slots in order to engage the tangs of the puller with the segments between the slots in the rotor.

Hold the J 33020 in place. Tighten the puller screw against the guide to remove the puller rotor and bearing assembly.

Mark the location of the clutch coil terminal on the compressor front head.

Install the J 33023-A on the front head of the compressor.

Install the J 8433-1 and J 8433-3 with J 33025 on the compressor.

Tighten the J 8433-3 against the J 33023-A in order to remove the clutch coil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Install:

 

Place the clutch coil assembly on the compressor with the terminals positioned at the marked location.

Place the J 33024 over the internal opening of the clutch coil housing.

Align the J 33024 with the compressor front head.

Center the J 8433-1 on the countersunk center hole of the J 33024.

Install the through bolts and washers of the J 34992 through the slots in the J 8433-1.

Thread the through bolts into the J 33025 in order to achieve full fixture thickness.

NOTE: Make sure that the clutch coil and the J 33024 stay in-line during the installation.

 

Turn the J 8433-3 of the J 8433-1 in order to force the clutch coil onto the head.

With the compressor still mounted to the J 34992 and the coil seated on the front head, stake the front head using a drift punch with a diameter of 0.125 in (3.175 mm).

Stake the front head at 3 places 120 degrees apart in order to ensure that the clutch coil remains in position. Ensure that the stake size is only one half of the area of the punch tip and only 0.010-0.015 in (0.28-0.35 mm) in depth.

With the compressor mounted to the holding fixture, position the rotor and bearing assembly on the front head.

Position the J 33017 and the J 33023-A directly over the inner race of the bearing.

Position the J 8433-1 on the J 33023-A.

Assemble the 2 through bolts and the washers of the holding fixture through the slots of the J 8433-1.

Thread the bolts into the holding fixture. Make sure that the thread of the through bolts engages the full thickness of the J 34992.

Tighten the J 8433-3 in the J 8433-1 in order to force the pulley rotor and bearing assembly onto the front of the compressor.

If the J 33017 slips off direct, in-line contact with inner face of the bearing, perform the following:

Loosen the J 8433-3

Realign the J 33017 and the J 33023-A to ensure that the installer clears the front head.

Install the rotor and bearing assembly retainer ring.

Install the shaft key into the hub key groove.

Allow the key to project approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in) out of the keyway. The shaft key curves slightly in order to provide interference fit in the hub key groove.

Clean the clutch plate and clutch rotor.

Align the shaft key with the shaft keyway.

Place the clutch plate and the hub assembly (1) onto the compressor shaft.

Remove the forcing tip on the J 33013 remover or equivalent.

Reverse the body direction on the center screw.

Install the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent with the bearing.

Back off the body of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent as necessary in order to permit the center screw to be threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft.

Hold the center screw with a wrench.

Tighten the hex portion of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent in order to press the hub onto the shaft.

Tighten the body several turns.

Remove the installer. Ensure that the shaft key remains in place in the keyway.

Install the clutch plate and hub assembly to the final position. Ensure that the air gap between frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and clutch rotor measures within 0.50-0.76 mm (0.020-0.030 in).

Remove the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent.

Verify proper positioning of the shaft key. Ensure that the shaft key is even with or slightly above the clutch hub.

Spin the pulley rotor by hand in order to verify that the rotor does not rub against the clutch drive plate.

 

Denso

To Remove:

 

Remove the clutch plate retaining bolt.

Remove the clutch plate assembly.

Remove the clutch hub/bearing snap ring.

Remove the clutch hub/bearing assembly.

Remove the clutch coil connector bracket screw.

Remove the clutch coli snap ring.

Remove the clutch coil assembly.

To Install:

 

Install the clutch coil to the compressor.

Install the clutch coil snap ring.

Install the clutch hub/bearing assembly.

Install the clutch hub/bearing snap ring.

Oil the thinnest air gap shim and install inside the clutch plate.

Install the clutch plate assembly.

CAUTION

Make sure that the drive plate does not drag against the pulley when the pulley is rotated.

 

Ensure that the air gap between the pulley and the drive plate measures within 0.35-0.65 mm (0.014-0.026 in).

Install the clutch plate retaining bolt

Torque bolt to 13 ft lb (18 Nm).

daljo Enthusiast

daljo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Removal & Installation

Delphi/Harrison

To Remove:

 

Clamp a J 34992 or appropriate holding fixture in a vise.

Use thumb screws in order to attach the compressor to the holding fixture.

NOTE: Do not drive or pound on the clutch hub or shaft. Internal damage to the compressor may result.

 

 

Compressor clutch plate and hub assembly

 

 

 

 

Ensure that the center screw forces the tip to thrust against the end of the shaft.

Thread a J 33013-B remover/installer tool or equivalent onto the hub.

While holding the body of the remover with a wrench, turn the center screw into the remover body in order to remove the clutch plate and hub assembly (1).

Remove the shaft key.

Retain the shaft key for reassembly.

Remove the rotor and bearing assembly retaining ring.

Install the J 33023-A to the front head.

 

Use the pulley puller J33020 to remove the rotor and bearing assembly

 

 

 

 

Install the J 33020 into the inner circle of slots in the rotor.

Turn the J 33020 clockwise in the slots in order to engage the tangs of the puller with the segments between the slots in the rotor.

Hold the J 33020 in place. Tighten the puller screw against the guide to remove the puller rotor and bearing assembly.

Mark the location of the clutch coil terminal on the compressor front head.

Install the J 33023-A on the front head of the compressor.

Install the J 8433-1 and J 8433-3 with J 33025 on the compressor.

Tighten the J 8433-3 against the J 33023-A in order to remove the clutch coil.

 

 

 

 

 

 

To Install:

 

Place the clutch coil assembly on the compressor with the terminals positioned at the marked location.

Place the J 33024 over the internal opening of the clutch coil housing.

Align the J 33024 with the compressor front head.

Center the J 8433-1 on the countersunk center hole of the J 33024.

Install the through bolts and washers of the J 34992 through the slots in the J 8433-1.

Thread the through bolts into the J 33025 in order to achieve full fixture thickness.

NOTE: Make sure that the clutch coil and the J 33024 stay in-line during the installation.

 

Turn the J 8433-3 of the J 8433-1 in order to force the clutch coil onto the head.

With the compressor still mounted to the J 34992 and the coil seated on the front head, stake the front head using a drift punch with a diameter of 0.125 in (3.175 mm).

Stake the front head at 3 places 120 degrees apart in order to ensure that the clutch coil remains in position. Ensure that the stake size is only one half of the area of the punch tip and only 0.010-0.015 in (0.28-0.35 mm) in depth.

With the compressor mounted to the holding fixture, position the rotor and bearing assembly on the front head.

Position the J 33017 and the J 33023-A directly over the inner race of the bearing.

Position the J 8433-1 on the J 33023-A.

Assemble the 2 through bolts and the washers of the holding fixture through the slots of the J 8433-1.

Thread the bolts into the holding fixture. Make sure that the thread of the through bolts engages the full thickness of the J 34992.

Tighten the J 8433-3 in the J 8433-1 in order to force the pulley rotor and bearing assembly onto the front of the compressor.

If the J 33017 slips off direct, in-line contact with inner face of the bearing, perform the following:

Loosen the J 8433-3

Realign the J 33017 and the J 33023-A to ensure that the installer clears the front head.

Install the rotor and bearing assembly retainer ring.

Install the shaft key into the hub key groove.

Allow the key to project approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in) out of the keyway. The shaft key curves slightly in order to provide interference fit in the hub key groove.

Clean the clutch plate and clutch rotor.

Align the shaft key with the shaft keyway.

Place the clutch plate and the hub assembly (1) onto the compressor shaft.

Remove the forcing tip on the J 33013 remover or equivalent.

Reverse the body direction on the center screw.

Install the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent with the bearing.

Back off the body of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent as necessary in order to permit the center screw to be threaded onto the end of the compressor shaft.

Hold the center screw with a wrench.

Tighten the hex portion of the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent in order to press the hub onto the shaft.

Tighten the body several turns.

Remove the installer. Ensure that the shaft key remains in place in the keyway.

Install the clutch plate and hub assembly to the final position. Ensure that the air gap between frictional surfaces of the clutch plate and clutch rotor measures within 0.50-0.76 mm (0.020-0.030 in).

Remove the J 33013 remover/installer tool or equivalent.

Verify proper positioning of the shaft key. Ensure that the shaft key is even with or slightly above the clutch hub.

Spin the pulley rotor by hand in order to verify that the rotor does not rub against the clutch drive plate.

 

Denso

To Remove:

 

Remove the clutch plate retaining bolt.

Remove the clutch plate assembly.

Remove the clutch hub/bearing snap ring.

Remove the clutch hub/bearing assembly.

Remove the clutch coil connector bracket screw.

Remove the clutch coli snap ring.

Remove the clutch coil assembly.

To Install:

 

Install the clutch coil to the compressor.

Install the clutch coil snap ring.

Install the clutch hub/bearing assembly.

Install the clutch hub/bearing snap ring.

Oil the thinnest air gap shim and install inside the clutch plate.

Install the clutch plate assembly.

CAUTION

Make sure that the drive plate does not drag against the pulley when the pulley is rotated.

 

Ensure that the air gap between the pulley and the drive plate measures within 0.35-0.65 mm (0.014-0.026 in).

Install the clutch plate retaining bolt

Torque bolt to 13 ft lb (18 Nm).

 

I know the procedure, but what I'm asking is the tool the same for this compressor (HU6) as the V5 style for removing the clutch?

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By newdude · Posted

      Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.      
    • 2017Z
      2020 Trailboss 6.2 replacement

      By 2017Z · Posted

      Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • GN2018
      AFM Disabler Question

      By GN2018 · Posted

      Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • davester
      Wiring Help, Please

      By davester · Posted

      you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Disabler Question

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...