Jump to content

Good Spot For Ground In Silverado Crew Cab

PJZ71

By PJZ71
in Audio, Electronics & Software

Recommended Posts

PJZ71 Enthusiast

PJZ71

Posted
Posted

Hey,

 

I just installed a system into my 2005 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab. I put an older Eclipse head unit (with 5v pre-outs), new focal 165V2UV's in the front, kept the stock speakers in the back, ran new speaker wire throughout the truck, I have an older 4 Channel Alpine V12 Amp that puts out about 70 watts a channel, a Rockford Fosgate Power 350s that will power my JL 10W3V3 (not installed yet), and a 4 gauge dual amp kit with a power and ground distribution blocks. My question is this: after I got all of this in my truck (took forever by myself), fired it up and didn't really work. Every time I turn up my head unit past about half way the sound cuts out, then cuts back in at a regular rate (maybe every 4-5 seconds). And the sound is extremely weak in the first place (the power of the head unit stays on). I believe it is a ground issue but don't have a voltimeter to check the resistance across the connections. First of all, does this sound like a ground issue or maybe something else? Second, if it is a ground issue, where is a good place to ground my amps. I have my amps behind my seats in the back and they are grounded onto a factory bolt holding down the seats (I did scrape the paint off). Any help would be greatly appreciated, not having a working stereo is driving me nuts, putting my stock bose system back in is sounding better and better haha.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

That can be a ground issue or a power issue. If you're running a couple of amps, you're going to need more than a 12ga wire.

 

What kind of power did you run? Your ground wire should be the same gauge.

PJZ71 Enthusiast

PJZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That can be a ground issue or a power issue. If you're running a couple of amps, you're going to need more than a 12ga wire.

 

What kind of power did you run? Your ground wire should be the same gauge.

 

 

4 guage power wire and 4 guage ground (8 guage from the amps then 4 to the truck)

 

I had both these amps in my old explorer with the same amp kit and it worked flawlessly.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

I've drilled some pretty good sized ones, 1/4" at least. Just depended on what bolts I had laying around. But as long as the washer (on the end of the ground cable) was making good contact on metal all the way around, it should be good. Heck, I've used the bolt coming out of the floor to hold the jack down for ground, but I ground all the paint off around it first...That worked fine.

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

When running amps and aftermarket head units, it is a good idea to go to the battery ground cable where it attaches to the frame or body. You have no real way of knowing if the body is completely or correctly grounded otherwise.

thecraft Senior Enthusiast

thecraft

Posted
Posted

 

 

When running amps and aftermarket head units, it is a good idea to go to the battery ground cable where it attaches to the frame or body. You have no real way of knowing if the body is completely or correctly grounded otherwise.
Yes, have you upgraded the "Big 3" or at least the wire that connects the negative battery post to the truck's frame? That wire is only like ~10awg from the factory.
Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted
I thought the ground cable should only be so long. The longer the wire is the higher the resistance.

 

I've heard that both ways. Either it should be as long as your power cable, or as short as possible. :lol: I've never made one over a foot or two long and haven't had a problem.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted
When running amps and aftermarket head units, it is a good idea to go to the battery ground cable where it attaches to the frame or body. You have no real way of knowing if the body is completely or correctly grounded otherwise.
Yes, have you upgraded the "Big 3" or at least the wire that connects the negative battery post to the truck's frame? That wire is only like ~10awg from the factory.

 

 

Very true, I hadn't thought of this...I'd already done that before I did my install.

PJZ71 Enthusiast

PJZ71

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I drilled a new 1/4" hole in the floor and scraped all all the paint of REALLY well and its finally working. At first when it was sitting in my driveway with the key in the AC position it worker better, but would still cut out. When i was driving back from lunch though i turned it up and now it will withstand high volume levels. I guess it has something to do with the amount of current its getting? Maybe I still need to upgrade the ground from the negative battery lead to the truck, it's all wrapped up in plastic tubing though and i'm afraid to get in there. Any suggestions on how to correctly do this?

 

Also, is it possible to hook in the bose sub (all the factory speakers are disconnected bc i ran new wire) by connecting the hu's harness outs Front L&R and Back L&R? Seems like if the bose amp was still getting a signal it would work but i dont know...Thanks for all the info.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 815 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • cautious optimist
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By cautious optimist · Posted

      This is a really late reply but I just found this thread. They won't sell the hinges. I've gone 7 rounds with them. Their solution is to buy a new cover. I'm about to buy a new cover and it won't be a Bakflip. It also won't be from realtruck.com. 
    • Chuck FB
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Yes, and also pulling heavy trailers or a large camper up steep grades as well as descending grades such as the more rustic off road camping locations and using engine braking with that low gearing as well as soft ground can just suck the power . I realize pickups these days tend to have an over all lower first gear ratio compared to automatic transmission pickups from years back so that has helped a lot in its ability in high range but there comes a point if in four wheel drive the torque runs out at the wheels, certainly with a gas engine. They don't put two speed transfer cases on pickups for a cool factor, they have a function if one needs that massive torque to the wheels that high range can't deliver. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Notes 7/18/2026   3,400 miles on this batch of Mobil 1 Euro 5W40 since the GDI pump replacement. Alcohol runs very clean when ring seal is tight and the sump isn't getting hosed with fuel. Checked oil level at fill up today as is my practice and grabbed a white Kleenex to look at the color. What color?  I was going to change it but.....  
    • Another JR
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Another JR · Posted

      4 low is really nice on steep boat ramps. 
    • Chuck FB
      Gas Prices

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...