Jump to content

Volant Install


Recommended Posts

Posted

My wife called today and said I had a package.

As soon as I got home,I went to the shop to install it.

I took some pics of the install. I'm not saying this is the best way, but it worked for me.

 

The total time was 1 hour and 22 min. Thats removing the stock, installing the Volant, and taking pics.

 

It wasn't bad at all. Everything bolted up just fine

 

stocckboxremoval.jpg

 

MAFsensorremoval.jpg

 

motorcover.jpg

 

bracketsnap.jpg

 

plug.jpg

 

stocktuberemoval.jpg

 

hoseremoval.jpg

 

Volantbox.jpg

 

powercorefilter.jpg

 

filterinstall.jpg

 

boxrubberseal.jpg

 

tubeinstall.jpg

 

hoseinstall.jpg

 

screwdriver.jpg

 

volantlid.jpg

Posted

lol, someone was so giddy and excited; they couldn't hold the camera steady at times I see.... :lol:

 

But that is good you got your cai and exhaust before your custom tune, those 3 in combination will work wonders. After Saturdays tune you are going to have such the largest grin from ear to ear :)

Posted
lol, someone was so giddy and excited; they couldn't hold the camera steady at times I see.... :lol:

 

But that is good you got your cai and exhaust before your custom tune, those 3 in combination will work wonders. After Saturdays tune you are going to have such the largest grin from ear to ear :)

 

 

LOL Yeah I wanted it installed NOW. I was rushing with the pics, Plus they are from a cell phone, and I was taking them with one hand while I was working with the other.

 

Can't wait for the tune!

Posted
lol, someone was so giddy and excited; they couldn't hold the camera steady at times I see.... :lol:

 

But that is good you got your cai and exhaust before your custom tune, those 3 in combination will work wonders. After Saturdays tune you are going to have such the largest grin from ear to ear :)

 

 

LOL Yeah I wanted it installed NOW. I was rushing with the pics, Plus they are from a cell phone, and I was taking them with one hand while I was working with the other.

 

Can't wait for the tune!

 

 

lol, yep like a kid on Christmas opening his presents.... :M16:

 

Have you drove it yet? some say you should see a slightly faster throttle response? just a tad more get up and go?

Posted

Yep. As soon as I backed it out of the shop, I took it for a spin.

I could tell a difference in the throttle, and the sound.

 

Can we embed videos on here or do we have to link them from somewhere else?

Posted
Yep. As soon as I backed it out of the shop, I took it for a spin.

I could tell a difference in the throttle, and the sound.

 

Can we embed videos on here or do we have to link them from somewhere else?

 

I would assume link to conserve site bandwidth, because we do have restrictions on sigs and our photos are resized; and linked to larger originals..

Posted

Very nice! This makes me want to get mine in now.

How long did it take you to put it in?

Any check engine lights?

I saw a forum somewhere that a guy had a problem with the mass airflow sensor. He said the sensor as not sticking into the tube far enough. I can't remember which body style he had.

I don't have to worry about it because my airflow is a completely separate unit that you reuse.

I paid $245 for mine.

 

PLEASE let us know if you see any changes in MPG BEFORE your tune.

 

What tune are you getting? (I can't remember)

Posted

I am going to ask what is going to seem like a stupid question, but it is an honest question. Wouldn't takint the cover off the stock filter serve close to the same purpose?

Posted

No you can't just take the cover off because that would allow the engine to suck in hot air from the engine bay = worse performance.

 

The factory (and probably the best) design sucks air in from the inner fender. This is where the coldest air is readily available.

Your truck, just like mine grose67, sucks the air in from behind the left-front turn signal through a plastic tube, through the inner fender, and into the intake box.

Posted
No you can't just take the cover off because that would allow the engine to suck in hot air from the engine bay = worse performance.

 

The factory (and probably the best) design sucks air in from the inner fender. This is where the coldest air is readily available.

Your truck, just like mine grose67, sucks the air in from behind the left-front turn signal through a plastic tube, through the inner fender, and into the intake box.

 

 

What keeps these Cold Air Intakes from doing the same thing? That is what I don't really understand.

Posted

The cold air intakes suck air from the inner fender just like factory and are fully enclosed (to suck "cold" air; not hot air from inside the engine bay).

The main difference is that the factory box and tube are designed to make the intake tract quieter and therefore limit airflow.

Cold air intakes don't have any of this "quieting" stuff.

They typically use a much straighter and smoother tube to go from the box to the throttle body.

Almost all (haven't seen one yet that doesn't) include a high flow filter that is made out of something other than restrictive paper found in a factory box.

Thus improving airflow, increasing power, and making the intake louder.

Posted
The cold air intakes suck air from the inner fender just like factory and are fully enclosed (to suck "cold" air; not hot air from inside the engine bay).

The main difference is that the factory box and tube are designed to make the intake tract quieter and therefore limit airflow.

Cold air intakes don't have any of this "quieting" stuff.

They typically use a much straighter and smoother tube to go from the box to the throttle body.

Almost all (haven't seen one yet that doesn't) include a high flow filter that is made out of something other than restrictive paper found in a factory box.

Thus improving airflow, increasing power, and making the intake louder.

 

I thought I had seen some "topless" models around but I may be wrong. This all makes sense as long as it works on the same principle as the original design, just better. I have a big chunk missing from my air box. I guess I should seal that up.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,591 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...