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Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though. My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days! It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there. I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant... End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished. Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.

Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson.

Wonder how these would ride compared to the stock Ranchos on a 2026.

The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry), where did the fluid go

Oh my goodness I forgot one. And you can guess why. Olds cutlass diesel station wagon. I was constantly working on it. Very low mileage and very nice. I gave it to my brother and he converted it to gas.

what are the codes, might be easier to fix than rewire

I don't have any pics of my '78 Cutlass on the computer - they were REAL pictures ... with film! Long before this computer crap took over everything, and made everything a PITA! I wasn't a fan of the downsizing done in '78. I never liked the look of it, but the kid who built it made it look mint, at least compared to the heaps I normally drove back then. Heavy orange peeled black paint (good from 20'), Corvette Ralleyes with raised whites, and they peeled the vinyl top off and painted that. Loved those Ralleyes!! Looked so nice! It had a Goodwrench 350 and a BUILT TH400 that barked the tires nicely! Kid built it totally wrong for the street, though. Everything he put in or on the engine was for the drag strip! Holley Dominator Strip intake manifold, Crane 292H came that barely idled ... and on a stock converter! Thing used to start creeping at lights with both feet on the pedal. Would empty that vacuum canister in no time flat! Everyone thought I was doing it on purpose, so EVERYONE had to race me at every light, HAHAHA! I'd get smoked off the line by a Ford Escort ... but once it hit 3,000 RPM, HANG ON! It ripped! Was like a 2-stroke motocrosser powerband. Also had gray Fiero bucket seats in the all black interior, and custom dual exhaust that I ended up throwing a set of Dynomax Super Turbos on. MAN did that thing sound SWEEET! I have a VHS tape of me drag racing some kid at night. Can't see crap, but you can hear me!

First you have to figure out how you want it to work, either automatically in conjunctionn with something else, or just manually with a switch or what.

charm.li (website) has GM's diagnostic procedures for each of those codes. GM recommends working them one at a time, lowest number up.

Those are the exact numbers I have researched for a stock height trucks. Those Amazon prices beat RockAuto...very surprised.

Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do. I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road. Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?

Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.

Howdy folks, Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets). On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element. No problem… or so I thought. I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground. Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though. Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power. Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons. Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped. Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!

I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.

I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets). On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash. No problem… or so I thought. I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground. Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though. Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power. Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights. Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped. Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!

Checked the pads today and there's plenty of meat on them. If the message keeps coming up, I'll just answer YES that the pads were replaced and wait for the squeal.

Welcome to the Forum! Always post the code definitions along with the codes. there are over 18000 possible codes, no one remembers them all and most will skip over your post rather than look them up

Not in my 2021. It's either on or off. There is no selecting front or rear. My scanner says something like implausible value for the rear monitor. I just disabled monitoring and keep driving it. There's physical metal squealer tabs on the pads for a reason. That's how people always knew when to change the brake pads or ignore them until the vehicle wouldn't stop anymore!

Are those part numbers for a stock height truck? Thanks for posting the video.

I have pictures of the 66, the starfire maybe the 72. I can’t say too much. We have lots of pictures of the first born. Not many of the second. Lots of the third my name sake. Mainly because of sports.

Thank you newdude. The truck is getting a new 9.5' Fisher V plow installed by the local Fisher dealer next week. The truck has keyed ignition. I believe I have located the correct upfitter switch kit (85866211). As for the dual battery upgrade I am trying to figure if I should go with OEM or an aftermarket isolation system. I can't seem to find anyone who has added an O system to find out exactly what part numbers I need and if it is genuinely plug and play or if wiring changes are needed and if so what.

Looking for some advice. I have these 3 evap codes p0449, p0446, p0451 and cant seem to find the source. Ive replaced the vent solenoid and the purge solenoid nether changed any codes. Truck is a 2013 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3 V8

Don`t have any pics of my `77 Cutlass Supreme that I sold to get my 2000 Silverado 1500. Was a nice car. Maybe because it was mine.

I had a few olds. My first was a 61 super 88 convertible. A 66 442. A 72 cutlass that was modified with a 455, 400, 373. A 1980 Holiday 88. And 1980 cutlass with a 400, 700r4 373. The 72 was done by my brother while his wife was away for a week visiting her parents. She was pissed. She went out and bought another car. I bought it from him. The 80 could have been an 84 I can’t remember for sure. My favorite was the 66. A sleeper. I almost forgot my wife had a starfire. A real piece. Of course my wife loved the thing.

Any word yet on whether or not DFM will be built into these two new engines (5.7, 6.6)?