Jump to content

How-To: 4 High Headlight Mod For Free 99-02 GMT800.

3500in nc

By 3500in nc
in DIY Guides & Reference Library

Recommended Posts

3500in nc Enthusiast

3500in nc

Posted
Posted

Ok here we go figured id post this here so info can be shared and ppl can save money

 

Take the headlights out of the truck then snip the yellow wires that come right out of the low beam bulbs, leave enough room to crimp a butt connector. then run the new wire to any available nearby bolt to ground the wire. it was super easy.

 

 

i could take pics of the wiring in the engine bay if you would like just PM me :flag:

  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply
3500in nc Enthusiast

3500in nc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Does this run the DRL's, brights and low beams?  That simple, huh? :banghead:

Thanks for the post!!

 

 

 

 

 

na i havent found out how to make the drls or fogs work whith the highs YET as soon as i get some more free time i will be undermy hood disecting the relays for the fogs and drls

 

yea its that simple an hey its free try it ull like it :cheers:

  • 2 weeks later...
drumset5994 Enthusiast

drumset5994

Posted
Posted

I actually, like to have control (control freak) -LOL

 

Someday im gunna figure a way to put a little switch on my column that activates all 4 (because i like the way the 2 and 2 look)

 

When you flash them...you look like a cop car at night ;) HAHAHAHA

Stackrat New Member

Stackrat

Posted
Posted

This is NOT a very good way of doing it as you will be running all of the current for the Highs, lows and DRLs through the High's wires!!!

 

The Avalanche Forum guys have instructions on how to do it at the relay coils (under the fuse panel under the hood). This way, the spliced wires are only handling the current for the low-current relay coils. BTW, going this route, you'll need to wire in diodes.

 

Not sure if the same procedure will work for the Silverado, but that's the correct way to do it.

3500in nc Enthusiast

3500in nc

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This is NOT a very good way of doing it as you will be running all of the current for the Highs, lows and DRLs through the High's wires!!!

 

The Avalanche Forum guys have instructions on how to do it at the relay coils (under the fuse panel under the hood).  This way, the spliced wires are only handling the current for the low-current relay coils.  BTW, going this route, you'll need to wire in diodes.

 

Not sure if the same procedure will work for the Silverado, but that's the correct way to do it.

 

 

 

 

just wondering how this is the wrong way i mean the bulb is just getting a new ground from a non switched source

 

so theres no splicing into anything

 

i think that you are thinking about this as a 03 and up version which i have also posted as that used the diodes

 

have a merry christmas :D

  • 3 weeks later...
00HD2500 Enthusiast

00HD2500

Posted
Posted

To make the DRL's stay on all the time you can run a wire with a diode from the headlight relay to the DRL relay, I think it is from 85 to 85 on the relays. I have amber 3157 bulbs in my truck and boy are they bright! it looks really cool with the highs, lows, and DRL's on at the same time. Thinking of switchin to clear 3157's and see if I like that look also.

 

Mike

Indy Enthusiast

Indy

Posted
Posted

I did the yellow wire trick on my '99 yesterday. I went for a drive last night and burnt the retinas out of a couple of deer! :cool: I love it! :cheers:

  • 2 months later...
NoWorries Enthusiast

NoWorries

Posted
Posted

Cool, this is exactly what I came here to find.

 

Is there any way to keep the DRL's from coming on? How about running fog lights without the other lights being on?

 

Thanks!

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...
hoorders Enthusiast

hoorders

Posted
Posted
Ok here we go figured id post this here so info can be shared and ppl can save money

 

Take the headlights out of the truck then snip the yellow wires that come right out of the low beam bulbs, leave enough room to crimp a butt connector. then run the new wire to any available nearby bolt to ground the wire. it was super easy.

 

 

i could take pics of the wiring in the engine bay if you would like just PM me  :rant:

 

 

 

 

Well......you know the old addage...'if its too good to be true it probably is'......that seems like a really easy fix.........have you or anyone else had this mod done for a length of time and lots of use of your high/low beams being on for long periods of time?.............just wondering about possible long term effects.

 

I would hate to fry some electrical in my 2000 Z71.

 

:rant:

  • 1 month later...
ScottyBoy Enthusiast

ScottyBoy

Posted
Posted

what if you just wire in a relay to each headlight and have the hightbeams trigger the relays to switch the low beams on? Wouldnt that be the safest way to do it?

  • 2 weeks later...
BretD04GMC Enthusiast

BretD04GMC

Posted
Posted

There's a far easier way to do this. I found the info. on another Truck board and did it to my 04 Sierra.

 

Buy a $0.79 package of resistors at Radio Shack and jump a couple of the wires at the connector under the steering column.

 

When you hit the high beams, both lows and fogs will stay lit. The instructions should be on the site somewhere.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      No, not yet. Hoping I'll have something a little more definitive in the next day or 2. They seemed to be very confident they can order it. I do have some understanding of the whole allocations and restraints stuff so we'll see.   I think this is what I'm looking for.   3000 ORDER ACCEPTED BY PRODUCTION CONTROL
    • Grumpy Bear
      Oil Consumption

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Then you haven't read your book. It also says check every 400 miles.   If you need to add multiple quarts in that distance then reading the stick isn't the issue. Put the two together and it will make sense. Read it all.     
    • CNH-320
      Weird drivability problem

      By CNH-320 · Posted

      Following up on my topic, I put an O2 sensor in it which seems to have got rid of all the b2s1 codes (I ended up having multiple codes). Next I’ll try to figure out the P0011 but I might focus on exhaust manifolds first, they’re getting pretty rusty. I’m hoping this thread will help someone in the future.
    • Core-Lokt
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I’m going off the instructions.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      My expectations are a bit higher.    No faded paint or dry rotted plastic/rubber. I use a dressing and a ceramic sealant. No hazy headlights.  No door dings. Small dent in the front bumper. All rock chips repaired. No brush scratches. No windshield chips. No fender benders. Limit damage due to a proactive plan the included ceramics and PPF and prompt attention to any exterior issue. NO RUST. Stays out of the salt and had the rear wheel wells Line-X coated as well as the bed which has a bed rubber and has been under cover since before I bought it. Washed and detailed regularly. Rex chewed up the tow button, got whacked and the button replaced the same week. He's leaned his lesson. If I can train a dog the kids are easier.    All suspension is original save the King Shocks I installed very early on. 50 years ago dad told me a good shock will keep the screws in the dash tight and the front end mint. He was right. Everything within new spec yet, tight and aligned well several times. Coolant system is OEM save the modifications I made early on. Not a single leak anywhere on this machine. (Did repair an intake leak on #4 during the HPFP replacement.) The injectors I replaced didn't need to be. They checked out great. One of those, while I'm in there with the manifold off and the fuel rail apart things.  Not a stain or abrasion one to the upholstery. Have kept is covered since new. Never had a carpet, it's a work truck but the carpet squared I laid on the floor have keep the factory rubber liner MINT. Ceramic wind tint helps preserve the interior.    Original BRAKES with 60%+ left of the pads and rotors mic excellent. We just did a full preventative brake service. Disassembly, clean inspect including measurements, lube, Dot 4 power flush including ABS system.    OEM battery. OEM vacuum pump. In fact the only things not OEM are a pinion seal the high side pump and injectors and a small plastic shield around the starter. All hoses/belts etc.. are still in service and doing well. Original tires lasted 125K and had I known some additional details would have made it to 150K with legal tread. (Date out is six years, not 5 and Continental says they are good for 10 so I pulled the trigger to early)   I never let my children or grandchildren run the show. Feet on the floor and hands in your lap. Dog gets a pass.    A truck is a machine the gives you back whatever your willing to put into it. Same as a computer or a butter knife. I use a shovel but I scrap it, hose it off and oil it when I'm done with it. My original spade I've had 60 years.      Set the bar higher...you spend less money. No, before you ask, I have spent a fraction of the cost of a new truck in my entire maintenance program including disposables, filters/fluids etc.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...