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Agree 100% I have a 23 Denali with 22's and ARC. Nothing to brag about, and the Bridgestone Alenza tires are nothing to write home about. I dread the snow coming in a couple days. I can see a set of Michelins on the horizon.

I used the Cabover lights of America on my 1500, in '21. Still working today.

Look smaller. Try a trailer that has a GVWR at or below 9000lbs.

Just remember that it could only tow 9,300lbs when stock. WIth the added weight of the lift, wheels and tires you are probably under 9,000lbs now. Getting the weight of the truck with nothing inside it and with a full tank of fuel would let you know what you can technically tow. But with it being lifted like that, I'd never exceed 8,000-8,500lbs but thats just me. If you do plan to tow a travel trailer with it, I think the weight of the trailer itself can only be about 6,000lbs max when dry. That leaves you enough weight for to put over 1,000-1,500lbs in it safely.

The way you modified your truck it will not tow it for long before you have issues

What art school grad came up with the name "Gideon very dark atmosphere" ? These are trucks not Honda Civics.

You dont have enough truck, even before you modified it.

I ordered my Denali with 20's, so it's better than 22's. That said, I have winter tires on 'take-off' 18" AT4 wheels and they ride better than the 20's. Last 1500 SLT I had was also on 20's and also rode better on 18's (not the same set) that were used in winter. If I could have ordered the 1500 Denali's on 18's, I definitely would have done so. I'd like to have the DSSV suspension, but I don't want the 2" lift.

I’m pretty sure the turn signals and brake lights are tied together so when you hit the brakes you’ll light up as well. I was going to do that but decided to just run the wires to the headlights and tap the wires there. Works great and it’s basically just as difficult as running them to the rear of the vehicle.

I have heard no, the DFM system isn't looked at with that style of emissions test. My inspection literally expires today so I'll let you know what happens in the next day or so. I had to edit my comment, I just went back out and plugged in my OBDII reader and some of the items are not showing "ready" I'm going to look into it.

Yes. Spinning more weight, wider contact patch and your speedo is probably off unless the PO used something to correct it. About 2mph off.

Here in Montreal, once you're past 4 years, you're on borrowed time. 4-5 years has been my experience for any make/model.

I know you didn't toss this out there for my comment BUT as I didn't list it some explanation might be in order. Certainly a step up over 0W20 anything. However it is an "Energy Conserving" oil conforming to the Dexos1Gen3 standard but does not meet the Dexos2/ACEA C3 standard for HTHS viscosity. Which would be yet another step up. The AMSOIL Euro 5W30 however does meet the higher viscosity standard and why I included one over the other in my brief list. As noted earlier the viscosity wear relationship is a trade. But absolutely, if one traded their Dexos1Gen2 or 3 ILSAC GF5-6A SAE SP "Energy Conserving 0W20 Group III and Group III blends in for ANY 5W30. even of the same classification, that would be a move in the right direction wear wise. AMSOIL SS would be in the lead group of that pack.

The ARC Sport mode absolutely makes a significant difference. Suspension is more progressive and doesn't sink down as much, so it doesn't float so much, especially over dips and rises, making for a much more sportier handling. In my Denali, shift points change, too, as does steering geometry. Don't know if trucks without ARC still get the different shift points and steering changes. One negative (in my opinion) about ARC is that when you go over a bump like a manhole cover that is typically slightly recessed, you feel a slight vibration right after the shock does its job, presumably because the shock is adjusting every 2 miiliseconds. I distinctly remember that reverberation in every Denali with ARC that I test drove, whilst I did not feel that in any other models, including Silverado Trail Boss. Thus, I highly recommended that you do a thorough test drive over road imperfections before deciding, because you may not like that feel. Before someone blames it on the 22" wheels, I have both setups, stock 22" wheels with the Alenza performance street tires, and stock 20" wheels with the stock AT tires, and can feel that reverberation anomaly with either set installed. I also felt it when test driving other Denalis with 20" and 22" wheels. Mine came stock with the 22" setup, and when I acquired and put the 20" stock wheels on, while it is slightly softer over sharp road imperfections, it almost feels like the 20" wheels and tires are a bit too heavy for the suspension. Don't know how to explain it, but It almost feels like the more rubber of the 20" tires weighs more than the extra metal of a 22" slighty larger rim, in that the suspension response is a bit slower, creating slightly more bounce/float, and makes the truck feel like a heavier ride overall. Makes me wonder if the programming of the shocks is different depending upon which wheels the truck is designed to have on it. That said, I should add that I drove from Sacramento to L. A. on two different trips on each set of the wheels. The 22" stock setup handles much better than the 20" setup, even in Normal mode, to the point where it almost seemed like I put the suspension in Sport mode. Of course compression and rebound of the shocks was more forgiving in Normal over Sport mode, but the 22" wheels makes it surprisingly much more nimble, like it's my Vette in truck form. I shared my experience with the wheels and tires simply to give you an idea that those too, will also make a significant difference. I do also notice a significant difference when towing my bass boat using Tow mode. It feels like it's easier on the truck's chassis. I have the 6.2 liter, so I'm not talking about towing power, I'm talking about how it seems to struggle less handling the boat over bumps and dips and around corners and the like. Not like I think it will actually "struggle" without ARC, but it seems beneficial to have ARC here. I should mention that I had the electronic shocks in my 2000 Suburban, and currently also have them in my 2001 Corvette, neither of which are the "magnetic" version. But again, I think they are a matter of personal taste,so drive the crap out of a truck with them and without them before deciding.

RESOLVED!! For anyone having this issue, I work in IT and this ate my lunch. Bottom line, purchase the card below, format NTSF, copy files over, done. https://www.amazon.com/SAMSUNG-Mirrorless-Cameras-MB-SD256S-AM/dp/B0C1PX92P2/ref=sr_1_4?sr=8-4 I tried several name brands, formats, and partitions. Nothing worked until I tried this card. No indexing and is recognized immediately. I don't know if is the brand, transfer speed, or the fact that it's not a micro card with an adapter, but it works. Brad

I'm towing this toy hauler. 6500lb empty. Gross 10000lb. Im only loading it to about 8500lb with bikes in the back. Tows well, I have a blue ox swaypro with it. 1000lb bars but I might switch to the 1500lb bars. When I take it across the cat scales I'll right at the rear axel limit and about 100 lb under gvwr all loaded with the family. Hoping the bigger bars will move a little more weight off the rear and back on the trailer.

I'll side with the OP on this one. No way it should leak, even if filled to top of the filler neck. I agree that when it clicks it's full -- unless it's a pump/nozzle that creates excessive foam. I'll also admit that I usually let the foam settle and give it another squeeze.... I'd want to correct the source of the leak.

Can't you just try one and see if it fits instead of all the speculation ?