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Update: Figured it out... kinda... It could be one of the two things I did. Either way, the noise is gone. This truck originally had a BOSS plow mount on it. When I removed it, it made use of the tow hook locations. But they were longer to compensate - so when I took the plow mount off the bolt ran out of thread before it was tight and rattled. Somehow that resonates up into the cab. That said - I also did look around the transmission for anything that could rattle and found only some of those heat shields that were a bit flappy, i bent them slightly to stiffen them up. Needless to say - one or both of these led to the rattle going away. I doubt very much anyone else would have this situation but hey you never know.

Was a member here before, but I guess hadn't logged in for a while and got auto-booted. But I'm back again. Anyway, here's the backstory setup: 2020 Denali Ultimate, L87, purchased new 8,800 miles, all original equipment except an Elite Engineering oil catch can. It finally crept out of its hole and reared its ugly head. It didn't leave me stranded, in fact, it never seemed to exhibit any issues at all. But one day a couple weeks ago, I went to town and on the return trip, a CEL showed up on the dash. WTF? Again, no performance issues to note. With low miles, I figured it was way to soon to have problems. I have an old Actron 2006 model scan tool that can still read and clear codes on the truck, so I figured wtf. Got a U18A2. That was it. No other DTCs. That's odd. Fuel pump driver module communication loss. Ok. Fuel pump obviously still works. Starts and drives normally. Cleared the CEL, and no more DTCs. What caused the CEL? I dunno. Couldn't just be the U18A2, right? Since then, I check for DTCs after every time I drove it. Got the CEL once more, but U18A2 DTC was the only code that would show up again. No other codes. Really strange. Wasn't familiar with this "problem". I guess it's like anything else, it can fail at any time, any place, anywhere. Started researching and found it was almost a not "if" but "when" the original module fails situation. Plus, it seems like most discussions said, just replace it basically but never delved into exactly how. Further research left me wondering about reprogramming or configuring the new module. Mixed bag. Some people claimed no, it's plug and play, others say yes, it needs re-configuring. I figured why not try it and if it needs configuring/programming, I'll deal with it later. If not, even better. I never realized there was a national back-order for a while on those, but it seems whatever 40 different part number changes since then seems to have cleared up many module issues. Hope that's the case. After installation, I drove the truck a few times, no issues so far, and better yet, no DTCs or CEL. Time will tell, and I'm going to jinx myself here, but it seemingly fixed the issue. For reference, the OEM module was p/n 13531875 and the newest GM p/n as of this writing is 13565641 (which replaced 13558812, which replaced 13540028, which replaced my OEM number 13531875), made in USA. Bought it through Rockauto.com for around $75 shipped. Double check your vehicle for the exact replacement p/n. All truck variations do not use the same module. And, since the truck is 5 years old, I figured as it ages, stuff will need looked at more via a scan tool, so I ordered up a Launch Tech USA tablet bi-directional with Bluetooth. Crossing fingers, but it seems fairly decent for that price range. I don't need an "everything" scan tool, which it isn't, but it seems it can do a good amount and those that use them seem fairly satisfied. If it happens to you...Removal/Install Info and tips- First, I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery. I did not want to take a chance on toasting anything unplugging/plugging the connections. On the 2020 crew cab, the fuel pump driver module is located on top of a sheet metal plate, inboard the gas tank about 4 inches below the bed just forward of the differential snout. It uses a claw style pin connector with the red tab lock that needs to be popped up first to get it loose. Then lift up the handle and pop it off the connector. You can barely get a small socket and wrench up in there because the 2 mounting screws need to be accessed from the top. Yay. Kind of a PITA, actually, but not bad. T20 torx bit. That's it. It will come out but you have to contort yourself a bit. I "fixed" that by popping the J nuts off the sheet metal mount and flipped them around and spread them out a bit to fit the flanges on the module. Optional- I then took appropriate sized stainless steel washers just a bit bigger OD than the screw heads and installed the screws from the BOTTOM of the sheetmetal mount. The screw heads are bigger than the pre-extisting holes in the plate, but just barely, hence me using the washers. So, if this ever needs to be done again, I can use my power screwdriver to zip them out quickly from the bottom. Since the OEM module isn't totally dead, I'm going to keep it in the truck under the rear seat along with a T20 torx socket/wrench in the event I DO get stranded on the side of the road over that module. Cheap insurance and it doesn't cost anything. May toss a code, but at least it still lets the pump run if I have to use it in an emergency. Since I haven't seen recent posts about this, I'm assuming this "issue" has been brought under control now with the newer modules?

What is the proper way to add a “factory” gooseneck plug on a 2024 HD? The truck seems like it is almost fully prepped with part number 86520227 which brings the wire into the bed. And then I picked up 84056018 which is the plug itself. Problem seems to be that the wires from the 865… harness don’t have a connector on the end to fit into the 8405…plug. What am I missing? I don’t want to get an aftermarket setup if the truck seems to be 90% of the way there already. Essentially seems that I just need to terminate those wires into a male plug which then connects to the 8405…bed plug.

Going in on Wednesday for sure for the injectors. The dealer is checking with GM if they will approve wires.

Your dealer DOES NOT have an allocation or the order would be picked up. The factory is not going to take a call from the dealer. They have no interaction with dealers, their orders come from GM. They might be BS'ing in hopes you will not walk out and go find another dealer with allocations. GM dealer allocations determine how many vehicles a dealer can order from the factory each month. This system is based on the dealer's previous sales performance and their ability to sell vehicles quickly. Larger dealerships that sell more vehicles tend to receive larger allocations, while smaller dealerships receive fewer allocations. The allocation process helps GM manage production and ensure that vehicles are distributed efficiently across its dealer network. Allocation System: GM assigns allocations to dealers based on factors like their previous sales figures, inventory turnover, and market demand. Impact on Dealers: If a dealer doesn't have an allocation for a specific vehicle, they cannot order it that month, regardless of how much demand they have. Customer Experience: This system can sometimes create confusion for customers, who might want to order a specific vehicle but find that their dealer cannot fulfill it due to lack of allocation. Dealer Inventory Management: Allocations help dealers manage their inventory and avoid overstocking or shortages of certain vehicles. Production Scheduling: GM uses the allocation data to schedule production and ensure that vehicles are built and shipped according to demand.

I would look at a plug from Pollak since thats who makes the ones GM uses. Your assumption that you need the make plug for the receptacle is correct.

a 10 year 150k mile warranty is not bad for the inconvience.

300,000 Kilometer Milestone! Sometime early today Pepper crossed this milestone ending the day at 300,313 Km or 186,606 miles.

The calibration procedure is needed to have the Video Processing Control Module learn new cameras and their positions. The calibration is performed automatically by the Video Processing Control Module. If any one of the cameras is replaced on the Surround Vision Camera System, the camera image needs to be calibrated to the system. For this reason, the Video Processing Control Module performs a calibration during its power up and initialization during each ignition cycle in order to maximize the surround vision image quality. A new Video Processing Control Module will have built-in default values for camera learn. However, the Video Processing Control Module will automatically calibrate in order adapt to the vehicle. To allow the Video Processing Control Module to complete calibration, drive the vehicle. Driving the vehicle in the conditions listed below will reduce calibration time.

Raven 20,000 Mile Service 4/3/2025 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage G4 Sedan 1.2 liter triple MPFI Solid roller. JATCO JF015E CVT transmission. 19,947 actual 1,864 mile OCI CVT 2 quart drop and fill. Red Line Non-Slip CVT Fluid. Now 97% PAO.

There's always the AFM delete cam kit option. Just drive it and DGAF. It's either going to break or it ain't. Odds are in your favor that it ain't.

12623757. Its above the oil pressure sensor at the front of the VLOM. Accessed by a plug in the top of the VLOM.

An HD is kind of big for a daily driver if you have to park in parking lots or drive in the city, but it’s the right truck for towing a 25 foot travel trailer or cargo trailer above 6000 lbs. Personally I’d be concerned about buying a new truck with the 10 speed transmission issues unless GM told me they had actually changed the design (versus the software band-aid that means you can’t trust the truck to get you through a long trip without going into a limp mode).

@davidm767 I have updates for the intake and exhaust as well. The Ram-Air intake is in its beta-test phase with about a dozen Test Pilots. See below. Currently, we are ensuring that the new mass airflow intercept module and tubing we have developed function correctly. Please expect it around the same time as the Derringer. The Monster Exhaust has been pushed back by about six months. We have all of the tubing sorted; what is needed is a piece of electronics to help intercept the computer so the truck does not freak out. The truck is sensitive to any changes in change with exhaust even after the DPF.The development time for materials and programming is going to take us a moment. We have tried tirelessly for the last few months to try and make the exhaust work by itself. Unfortunately, it will not work without electronic intervention.

Raven 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage G4 Sedan 1.2 liter triple MPFI Solid roller. JATCO JF015E CVT transmission. 11,249 miles 3,786 mile OCI 3 Liters Red Line HP Euro 5W40 1 Purolator PL14610 filter 1 Valvomax kit. 11,249 mile OCI 2-1/4 quarts Red Line Non-Slip CVT fluid (28.6% fluid exchange) No filter this change. (OEM first service was supposed to be 30K) 1 Valvomax kit. Transmission. What I took out, left. What I put in, right. Wonder what that would have looked like almost 3X this distance?

Start another thread, don't hijack this one.

After some research, I may not do this now. The trade in on my truck is $45,000. The sticker was 79,000. I refuse to take such a hit. This fiasco dropped the value on 6.2s huge. I'll keep it for now.