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I was quoted just short of 7k for a complete DOD delete, with engine and trans tune. I think my low end is fine, so I thinking this is the way to go. The work is a couple weeks out so when complete I will post back.

Keep them 6l90 cool and avoid jack rabbit starts. I added bypass and deep aluminum pan. 2021 hd I had a L5p 2017 transmission was excellent.

115 k miles now, second oil change with valvoline restore and protect, oil consumption has actually reduced but now having turbo issues

Winter got its final shots in on my wallet over the last week. Last Tuesday it was kind enough to hail and punch holes in the roof panels of my gazebo. Then this Tuesday the cold snap finally did my original 2018 battery in. No warning, no fade to failing, just woke up today and she was gone. Charger wouldn't even touch it. Tested at just under 12v and all of 22 CCA, lol! Went to Wally and got an Everstart AGM for $170. Not too bad. But I am done with winter now.

A must. The filter bolts are one time use. Use 24050764 bolt kit which will have the two filter bolts and then a couple others you won't need. The filter bolts happen to also hold the valve body in place, hence their one time use-ness. Pan bolts are 93 lb in torque spec. Filter bolts are : First Pass:(44 lb in) Final Pass: 128 degrees There is a note per GM on diesel 1500 10 speeds: For diesel applications, the transmission fluid level should be checked only after the TFT has reached or exceeded an operating temperature of 105°C (221°F). Once the TFT has reached or exceeded 105°C (221°F), let the temperature cool back down to 75-80°C (167-176°F) before checking the fluid level. The level check plug is on the driver's side of the case, towards the rear. You can fill it from there with the engine OFF at first until it starts to pour out and get as much as you can in then so its not a dry start. Put the plug back in, fire it up and shift through the PRND and back (spend about 5 seconds or so in each position to properly fill). After that I would fill it until it comes out while running and then drive it and cycle the temps as indicated. After that, engine running again, PRND and back and then set the level again.

When mine failed, I got 0 warning. 8 years old and about 95k miles. I was driving down a back road in Alabama on a road trip. One minute, working just fine then I tried accelerating and it began slowing down with rpm's shooting up. No abnormal noise either. I had to roll to the side of the road and wait for the tow truck.

Thats my thought. I am thinking with 135K and she doesn't eat any oil, runs strong, I am looking to find someone who does the DOD delete. My son-in-law knows a few wrench turners who work on race cars and may be up for this. I just can't see spending that amount of money on a truck going on 9 years old, even though it still looks good. If I am going to have to open up the engine, I am deleting the DOD crap cam & lifters.

Rebuilding your engine would be cheaper than 11k. Even if you think it has rod knock or something like that. If the oil is a glitter factory, it's a spun rod/main bearing. If there is no glitter it's probably just a lifter that broke and it doing a lot of damage to the camshaft. Or find a used block for a few thousand. Spend a few thousand on delete parts and put it back in.

Only one of those data channels is used by the computer. Just because a PID/channels is available on that computer, that doesn't mean it will use it. You see it all the time when using tuning software too, there can be 4 channels that can all read the same specific thing but only one is used by the computer and the other channels is just weird skewed data.

Dumb question, have you manually folded the mirror by hand to see if that "resets" it? Or listened to the mirror when trying to fold it to see if you hear anything working, by trying the switch on the driver's door panel with the passenger's side window down?

Just curious if we are seeing any high milage examples, been seeing 150-200k+ on Youtube and a few other places. I think the mods (T-stat delete) and keeping up with the transmission fluid service seems to be key. How high of miles have you seen? Sounds like if you didn't get the 10 speed your golden.

Provided you don't have one that has the torque converter eat into the housing, it should be a 350k+ truck easy. I think the 10spd is fine as well. The Allison issues seem to be very rare overall.

The 6L90 has at least 15 years of excellent service experience even before this particular installation. My L8T uses less than a pint of oil between 3750 mile interval oil changes. I’m 61, and, barring an accident, I suspect my 2021 3500 will be the last truck I buy. My son already has claimed it when I’m done. He’ll have to arm wrestle my granddaughter, though. She and I have already caught a lot of salmon while camping with that truck, so she has a legitimate legal claim.

It’s a very easy mod. I did it in about 30min. There is a sticky with part numbers.

I am totally happy to have the 6L90 on my 2021 3500 hd. It runs great, and has a reputation for being one of the most reliable transmissions available. I could rave more about how it operates, but won’t unless you have questions.

HD gas don't have them on 2019 and older. 2020+up do. Diesel does 2017+up.