dplarson

Usually tongue weight is about 10% of the trailer weight. Are you towing 21,550 lbs? Most 2500HD trucks I think are rated to tow up to about a 13,000lb trailer. As for tongue weight, look for the Tire and Loading Information sticker in the door jamb with tire pressures. It says the max weight of cargo which includes passengers, cargo and tongue weight. My 2017 2500 HD 4x4 says my max payload is 2814lbs. My 6000lb camper trailer has a tongue weight of about 600lbs so well within that limit, even with passengers and toys in the bed.

I have the GMC version of your truck, 2017 2500HD 6.0 gas. I tow a 30ish foot travel trailer camper with a 4 wheeler in the truck bed so I’d like to pep it up when towing too. I have the extended 100,000 mile warranty so haven’t really messed with it yet. My initial thought was cold air intake, exhaust and a Blackbear tune but now I’m thinking stage 2 cam when it hits 100,000 miles. Probably exhaust too. That should wake it up. Summit racing and lots of other sites have build guides on the L96 engine, google and YouTube are your friends here to get some solid ideas. Sent from the demons in my head

There is a match for you somewhere. I’m interested in swapping jumpseat to console but I have 17 grey fabric base model work truck. Good luck! Sent from the demons in my head

I wouldn't carve this in stone but I think all variants of the 2016HD trucks are compatible with OEM GM remote start kit. In other words, you don't need any certain RPO codes. You might start over with your specific vehicle info or VIN at https://accessories.gmc.com/ but searching a 2016 3500HD base model crew cab 6.0 gas truck I found this. It looks like it's just the fob but it is actually the entire kit, not including any labor to install / program. 4 Button Keyless Entry Remote Key Fob https://accessories.gmc.com/product/4-button-keyless-entry-remote-key-fob-84424017?year=2016&make=GMC&model=Sierra 3500 HD&modelId=6581&body=Crew Cab Pickup&bodyId=22&wheel=Standard Box&wheelId=380&trim=Base&trimId=20&drive=4WD&driveId=8&engine=6.0L V8 FLEX&engineId=396&bodyNumDoors=5&categoryId=12001 Document ID: 2918205 Remote Control Door Lock, Theft Deterrent, and RemoteStart Transmitter Package Installation https://ecom-dam.ext.gm.com/parts/documents/ISheets_22901614.pdf

Many go for headers, cam and a tune (or programmer) over forced induction due to cost. I can do either in my garage for the price of parts. Price them both but don't forget, if pricing forced air options, you might be replacing the cam anyway along with your injectors and maybe other upgrades, and the choice is clear to those without thousands to burn. However the cam and headers will not deliver 100 extra hp or torque so for that kind of power you might be on the right track. Here is some good reading... https://help.summitracing.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/4846/~/upgrading-the-ly6-and-l96-engines https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/08/17/l96-6-0l-engine-upgrade-guide-expert-advice-for-l96-mods-to-maximize-performance/ Sent from the demons in my head

2017 6.0 gas base model work truck. Gas gauge goes faster than the speedometer, IDK, 9 MPG? I usually also have a big 2 seat Polaris Sportsman Touring four wheeler in the bed. Trailer is somewhere around 7500lbs loaded. After my power train warranty is up I’m thinking cam and tune. Now y’all have me thinking about headers too! Sent from the demons in my head

Interesting thread here. Lots of good info. I’ll be boondocking in Montana where there’s no shore power or cell service so I don’t have the same goal as OP but it is good to know more about how our trucks work and can work with our campers. Sent from the demons in my head

I’d have a terrible time getting rid of the 07 Classic. I have a 2017 gas 6.0 2500HD work truck I paid the asking price you’re talking about but that was almost 2 years ago. Seems overpriced unless fully loaded and perfect with that age and mileage. I think they’re rated to tow around 13000. You probably made the right choice. Sent from the demons in my head

I saw 6.0 in the post title. I should have clarified, when mentioning 0F, I was talking about GM gas engines, not diesels. Here is what they say for a 2017 6.0 gas engine. My 2006 6.0 gas engine was the same. Sent from the demons in my head

The GM block heaters don't activate until around 0F. They will not prevent your windows from icing. A circulating pump will keep that coolant warmer but will not prevent your windows from icing. Basically it warms the cab quicker, and I suppose defrosts the windows slightly faster but if you're dressed for winter, not a noticeable difference. For frost and light ice, Prestone De-icer windshield spray for your washer sprayer tank instead of the blue shyt is your best friend. And good gloves and good scraper. Yeah, suck it up. I know a guy who runs an internal 120V heater tapped into the block heater circuit and it keeps the windows clear but will not melt inches of snow from the windows. Runs it on a timer starting a few hours before go time. Said it is for a semi truck or something but I could not find one online so not sure exactly what it was. I don't work there anymore. Sent from the demons in my head

Do you have two tow hooks under the front bumper? Sent from the demons in my head

Marketplace is great because of the national reach. I listed my LTZ in a few local fb groups plus marketplace. Someone looking for this exact vehicle drove from Idaho to Montana with a van full of kids just for a test drive. Of course at that point the sale was a formality once they had that much time and effort invested in my rig. Yes they bought it Sent from the demons in my head

Look for local fb groups such as buy sell trade / garage sale / cars for sale / swap meet and join any that allow listing vehicles. That's for best reach but you don't even have to do that, just go to marketplace and there's a button to sell an item and it will be listed in marketplace. In other words, marketplace is basically it's own group bug not called a group. At the end of creating this listing, it will ask you what other groups you want to list your item in. Check any that allow vehicles. Good luck man. I went from Chevy LTZ (basically a Chevy Denali) to a base work truck. I love the truck but do miss some of the features. It should sell quick! Sent from the demons in my head

Donstar was right on about negotiating. On the old 4 square, always stay in box 1, the sale price of the new rig, ALWAYS! Also, I'm not coming down on the side of the dealer here but it can be beneficial to understand all sides of the transaction... They can mark the other used truck or your trade in truck at book but are they getting that? They need room to negotiate down from that list price and still profit so keep that in mind. Running a stealership isn't free money. The advice above about FB Marketplace is spot on. Do not feel loyal to the dealer, they have zero loyalty to you. You'd be lucky to get a free hat for your loyalty there so yes, it is worth the trouble to clean up your truck, take some good pics, list it a little above book, have room to negotiate down a bit and still feel good about it. You'll have more cash in your pocket, even after any additional tax. In the last year I've listed 2 vehicles on Craigslist AND FB Marketplace. Both sold on FB. Sent from the demons in my head

I have a 2017 GM 2500 6.0 that would probably be in your price range on the used retail market. My first thought was the 25 mi commute and the cost of gas. You'd probably be looking at 10-14 MPG depending on highway or city driving. I'd calculate it at 13 not knowing. Not a cheap city runner but you will not be wrenching on it all the time. The 6.0L L96 is a strong engine, fine for pulling your gooseneck up to about 13000lbs and a good candidate for lots of upgrades if you want to throw hardware at it. It responds well to intake, exhaust, cam, superchargers, you can really go crazy on these. Just for economy I'd absolutely look at the smaller Ram. Their interior (on the half tons, not sure about the 3/4 tons) is much nicer in my opinion. Sent from the demons in my head

And have tools to disconnect each battery so you can check voltage of each one separately. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Yeah, I wasn't impressed with e3 in my 2006 6.0, it actually felt worse. I took them out, installed OEM and it was back to normal. Maybe things have changed. Sent from the demons in my head

I wonder if the older cables could work on my 2017. I'd rather be able to remove the tailgate with no tools. Of course I have not looked at how the cables disconnect, if they do that is. Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Here's the reverse lights I used and really do like. I get positive comments on them too. Sent from the demons in my head

2017 Sierra 2500HD base (work truck) Sent from the demons in my head

The bulb number was whatever was in there originally, 921 I think. My Dad gave them to me, he bought 4 and had extra, I think he got them from a facebook ad. Sent from the demons in my head

I have LED backup lights and love them. Standing outside the truck or looking out the window they are noticably brighter and I do get positive comments on them. I just have a 2017 base GMC work truck. No assist BS. The backup camera works the same, a little brighter but not a lot brighter on screen. Sent from the demons in my head

The radio does work for a while after removing the key and even after opening the door. Maybe to not drop calls if a call was in progress when shutting off the truck? I still see GMC Intellilink in my phone's Bluetooth for a while after shutting off the truck and getting out sometimes. Kinda annoying actually. One time after a phone call I took through the truck's radio, it got stuck thinking the call was still active, unable to hang-up, even after powering off my phone! I had to remove the key and leave the driver's door open for 5 minutes to resolve it. Not sure if any of that is on point but evidently the radio is alive after removing the key and opening the door. The 12V 7 way plug should always be powered. Sent from the demons in my head

No, it does not shut off. The 12V provided to the 7 way socket should be hot all the time. I just checked my truck, haven't driven it, pressed any key fob buttons or opened any doors since last night. It shows 12V to pin 4. Sent from the demons in my head

Has anyone found a quality electric fan kit for the 6.0 gas engines for years that include 2017 HD trucks? I would expect removing the traditional fan would help MPG but I cannot find a good fan kit. Sent from the demons in my head