nards444

think it depends on the repair. Makes no sense for them to have the vehicle unless they have the parts and ready to work on it, unless the repair has to be made before the truck can safely drive again. Wife just had a recall done that was supposed to take a 1/2 a day but took 2. hard to say without the informaiton given

my one issue with GM, they continue to recycle the same boring and limited color pallet year after year.

Cool, where a state that only gets 20-40inches of snow a year, and light salting.

yeah my thought. The cost escalation from 2-3 models years, plus the 1500 on star add one, unless incentives are coming back out, the man is going to pay 5-10k more for the same truck he ordered

The key in all you said is not driving in the winter. I have a 10 year old mustang that has never seen winter and limited rain and the underside looks new. Do what you want for over the hill cars, just waisting time if you keep it in salt. Again IMO not worth the time and money, given average ownership etc.

call dealer, or find the paint code and search online or amazon, that color has been around for years.

Yeah i was just offering a counterview. This is kind of death and taxes no sense in fighting it. And wheel wells have nothing to do with coating. They rust out due to get chipps and scuffs from rocks and sand, nothing you can really do for panels other then wax them.

Thats what I thought. So draining batteries as the guy said before me, is a moot point. I guess you have to figure in the alternator etc.

true, but theres no reason they couldnt either disable the outlet if the truck is off, or step it down when the truck is off to a lower amperage.

these outlets kill me, pretty much only good to power a cell phone or kids tv. The companies need to step the inverters up to at least hold 10amps, most are only 3-4amps which doesnt do a whole lot

people forget that, your limit is payload not really towing capacity. Always laugh at the next HD truck from whatever brand can haul 85,000lbs, uhhh not really. Considering a good rule of thumb is 12-15% for tongue weight, a 10k lb trailer has around 1500 in tongue, 4 x200lb adults and 200lb tool box, dont leave you much to spare.

reality is short of the work truck, the seats are all the same short of what is covering them, and if they have heated cool etc. Depending on what you want, you can always get an uploaded LT trim level which offers leather with most if not all the options of an LTZ or HC and save considerably. But then again I order all my trucks and dont just take whats on the lot, because to me I either overpay for things I dont want or need and or dont get what I want.

Yeah I am sort of, of the same mindset. Live in a rust belt too. I for one don’t keep things more than 5 years, so it’s sort of moot point. But logically most people aren’t driving things past 10 years old around here, data even says most people don’t keep cars more than 7-8years. With the advent of aluminum, factory rust coating, steel that is made better, rust proofing is just a lot of time and money wasted IMO, other things will go first and my as well save the energy for those things

have to be careful of threads at times though, squeaky wheels get the grease so to speak. And often times there is a lot of anecdotal talk on threads, where a handful of experiences somehow warp into its widespread issue.

Well I have owned what you have and now own what you want. What you tow as in weight and what you want to tow, and how often and how far all matter, along with what you want to get out of it. If your towing a the limit and doing it far and long, moving to the 2500-3500 platform will be you best bet. 3500 really isn’t necessary, but if you want the added capability for a extra bucks, so be it. For reference I have owned a 2011 and 2015 3.5 ecoboost, 2021 Chevy 2500 Diesel, and now a 2022 GMC AT4 gasser With that said I have owned two ecoboosts and as a whole have been the most capable trucks I have ever owned for what they are. So if your talking a HD gasser, the ecoboost actually has 50 more hp and torque then the GM 6.6 gasser and the ecoboost will have a flat line torque curve, meaning you get it all the same time vs over 3-4k rpms. Motor wise the ecoboost acceleration wise will probably haul the same if not better then the 6.6 gasser and also get substantially better mpg when not towing and probably the same when towing. My ecoboost typically got about 17-18 all around mpg and 12-13 towing 10k lbs going 65, where as my gasser in my GMC does about 12-13 all around and slightly less towing. The difference is the bigger truck will be able to haul more payload and towing weight, and will also handle and stop better then the smaller half ton truck. No comparison with the diesel and the gasser after owning both. You want the worry free towing, accelerate when towing, and get descent MPG get the diesel. The gasser IMO doesn’t hold a candle. Your going to pay more for the diesel, 10k more, and fuel right now is almost 2 bucks more a gallon, you save about 20% on that due to mpg increase. But the bottom line between maint and fuel you will never save money on the diesel, but you will also get a better return at trade in time. But if you plan on owning 15 years that might be moot point, but might be another reason to go diesel. In a way I regret getting rid of the diesel, but reality was I hauled a boat 10 times a year 15 miles amongst some other smaller thing, and in the whole equation going down to the gasser saved me money. Lastly look at trim level levels and exactly what you want and need. I wouldn’t necessarily zoom to the Denali or HC after comparing apples to apples. My AT4 was option to option compared to the denali. I ended up saving 5-6k, and the only difference was badging, grill, and wheels. Same can be said for Chevy. High trim options merely add all the options and change out the wheels and sometimes grills and charge you more. I say typically because at times you can pay more for a lower trim level if you do not know what you are looking. Buddy of mine was bent on a Denali and told him the same thing. He ended up with a Carhartt edition with everything he wanted for over 10k less.

ive had cab lights put on two trucks. best $150 I spent to have someone else do it it

One thing to keep in mind since you are going new is to ensure the hitch matches the weight of the truck hauling capacity. and ensure you get the 2.5in so you dont have to use the sleeve, once less piece to worry about then

Used rapid hitch in the past, but now have a weigh safe, the weigh thing is pretty cool. But with the rapid hitch or weigh safe, same concept of having both balls and adjusting height. Saves having 3-4 hitches around

Im missing parking sensors, and something with the seats. bought in July, still nothing.

I hear ya. Cost is eventually going to drive cars into a service or people using them just to get to point a to b. We would probably always own our own car at least one which probably means taking out a 10 year note for one. The other car will just be rented when needed. On the other hand its silly to think widget A will cost the same price it did 20 years ago

Just like you said, whats their to say. year to year inflation alone in regular times is 3% will add 1500 year after year. There is some tech advances and such which is some of it,, but my 2007 1500 cost 27k, my 2014 very similar equipped was 43k, that same truck today would cost me 55-60. So that same truck has effectively doubled in price in less than 15 years, although my real wage hasnt, or many others. I keep saying the bottom has to drop out on car prices at some point. I predict one of three things or a combo in the next decade or less. 1. Leases will expand to 5 years or more 2. Standard bank loan will be 10 years 3. Ride sharing will be prominent. Uber is already looking into this. You would use your app to reserve a car for say a day or certain amount of hours, or a week, car is dropped off to you and picked up at you location. This might make sense to save money for us. We need to two cars. But in this scenario we would probably only buy one, the other would be ride shared. On a typical week, we need both cars maybe 10hrs of the day, and really only need one on the weekend.

My point was he spent more money and effort on snow tires then just getting the 4wd. A 4wd with average truck tires is always better then a 2wd with snow tires. And I wouldnt be playing around with tired past 5-6 years either. rubber rots regardless if you use it or not

I would say 5-10 cheaper. I like Denalis dont get me wrong. But its an awful lot of money for stickers. My AT4 going line by line is exact other then stickers and grill and was 6k cheaper then an equivalent Denali.

mine works on my 2022. But the wifi doesnt auto connect , even though its set up that way

my 2021 mdinight, z71 was mandatory