Ridersfan

I agree, I see no reason anything should be any different… but I’ve been down this path before. Used to run diablosport intune programmers, and I buy early every year… and every year it wouldn’t function without an update that took them months to get around to

I have a new 22 AT4 6.2L and would like to add a Pulsar LT 22451. Can’t find anything anywhere that acknowledges if it actually works in a 2022 model, no mention of works… doesn’t work… nothing. Anyone have a source for an answer or better yet done it themselves on your own 2022 model?

Last weekend my 3.0L didn't have enough oil in it to reach the dipstick, dealer closed at 2pm on saturday, it was 2:30 before I knew I needed oil... couldn't source any option till monday morning. 3.0L going down the road now, will be in a 6.2L hopefully next week if it arrives... it's currently at the rail ramp unload yard

I have a 21 3.0L AT4, has 12,000kms (7,500 miles) on it... I have had the extended crank issue in the hotter months, seems better now... but just checked the engine oil & it was a whole quart low with 5,000kms (3,100 miles) on the oil change. It will become a 2022 AT4 Limited with a 6.2L this week. If I wanted to drive something that may or may not start & has to have its oil monitored, I'd have chosen a ford. I liked the empty fuel economy of my 3.0L but it was no better than a gas engine when trailering and no better in city driving... so yes, I do regret the 3.0L a bit. That said, I got drug money for it, so it's a no-brainer to trade on the 22 6.2L. My 21 was an absolute base AT4, the only option was the 3.0L... this new 22 has every option except carbon pro (and start/stop not available due to chip shortage, I'm not heart broken about that at all) and I am paying $2,700 difference, so hand that to the 3.0L for holding value... I'm easily buying $6,000 more truck and moving up a year.

I found that so confusing that they were marketing app as a keyfob. I read into that as no keyfob required. You can hook your phone up to replace a keyfob... just like on a Tesla. Not so much the case though

I did mine last night and wanted my cargo lights on with my reverse lights AND my reverse lights on with my cargo lights. This was so simple... I just used a red scotchlock connector, clicked it in, and had this mod done in seconds. (already had a good idea which wires were where because I was also doing the diode for the foglights on with highbeams mod)

How positive of a feel does your setup feel when you insert your diode? I did mine last night... pushed rather hard with needle nose pliers, and it didn't work at first when I tested it... pushed even harder until the diode "arms" bent... tested it, and it worked. Nothing ever did seem to click in past the connector or anything, so I don't necessarily have full confidence that it won't vibrate back out and stop working. Any tips?

Is the truck a 2017? I've heard that the range isn't always effective on a 17... they work intermittently, so you may well have the V4 mode going on without realizing it. Just a thought anyways

I miss having my gas cap to hold the service station nozzle going while I clean my windows, etc. Now without it... I find myself going more to the full service station than the cardlock just so I'm not standing there swearing at my stupid truck for not having a gas cap lol

If all you have is AQQ... then you need GM part# 22997089 and you need it installed at a GM dealership so that they can reprogram the BCM and new fobs. The dealership will need the code inside the box and your VIN, they'll call TAC, and TAC will send out a special build of BCM flash for the dealership to install.

You should change your gas cap to reflect it as well. Not that are many full service gas stations left anymore... or people that have common sense... but IF you find both, they may refuse to pump E85 into an unleaded capped tank.

Apple does have their own vesion... for a fee... but you can't use the same elm 327 bluetooth adapter either... need a wi-fi version that's roughly $6-$7 more than the bluetooth version. Find them on amazon or ebay

Yeah I pulled it off today just to reassure myself, it is identical either direction... the nubbies reverse half way through the muffler. Turned it around anyways and no change

They look the same from either direction when looking through it. Or at least that's what I thought. Might turn it around to see if there's any difference while it's still new enough to come back apart easily

That is a weird muffler on the MBRP isn't it? There is no flow direction indicated and when you look through it, you can see the baffles reverse directions, so I hope flow direction doesn't matter, cause I just put mine on, right or wrong, it's on lol

Yeah cause GM has never gotten flack over anything key & fob related ever

I put that same mbrp aluminium 3" catback on mine about 2 weeks ago... install went slick. V4 is quite loud in cab. V8 sounds like it's supposed to

Wow, there are allot of pages to this thread... and I'm admittedly kinda lazy to read them all. Question, why would lowering shackles be better than just taking the block out from between the diff and the springs? Seems like just removing the block would accomplish the same thing, be way faster, and be free. What am I missing here? What's the disadvantage to that, or risk to that... vs spending a couple hours and some money on lowering shackles?

Check your vent valve for being dirty or iced over

Premium fuel, in Canada, has a higher octane and more additives. It's more than just higher octane... at a quality place... the cheapo places, that may well be the case. I don't have the background to explain why or what or how... but my truck runs cooler towing a 6000 pound camper when burning petro-canada premium 91 octane gas vs a cheap 87 from fasgas or walmart. Argue against it if you want, I really don't care... I've seen it, it matters to me, and that's what I care about, more so than arguing over it.

It won't get me any better fuel economy and certainly costs me more, all true... but has better additives and runs cooler. It's worth the extra $$$ to run cooler when towing to me.

I use regular 87 for daily driving and I use premium 91 for towing my 6000lbs camper... sometimes the boat too at 3500lbs, but not always... depends on how full tank already was... but only premium 91 in the boat or else it pings.

Yes, that's true... even though I'm saying it's normal to hear noise when doing that, I'm not saying it's normal to do it 24/7

Transfer case & front driveshaft are full timing it in auto 4wd, the front axle engages and disengages when required... that's the auto part. It is normal to hear some noise difference between 2hi and auto 4wd. 4hi will also have your front axle engaged too so you get even more noise and the jump around turns on dry pavement... all by design, I don't think you have a problem

I added blacked out bowties to mine this weekend GM P/N 23463799 and I'm pretty pleased with them... they look good on Brownstone with black accessories.