CaptainMcFunk

They're BFGoodrich KO2's 305/55/20

Welp, wheels and tires came in today, but one of the wheels was damaged by FedEx...looks like I have to wait a couple more days to get them on!!! UGH!

I just ordered the XD820 Grenades in 20x9 +0 with BFG KO2's 305/55/20 on them -- They're going on my 2015 2.5" leveled Sierra in Sonoma metallic. I'll post pics here mid next week once everything is on and done!

So i hunted through several pages of search results on this thread before posting this but...here goes.. In my opinion, the best sounding aftermarket exhaust i've found is the Gibson Metal Mulisha exhaust, but i cannot stand the exhaust tip, im' not into that kind of look -- What i'm curious is which gibson muffler is the closest to the one thats found in that catback? I'm thinking it's the SFT Superflow Muffler (found here: http://gibsonperformance.com/c-1158801-exhaust-muffler-sft-superflow-muffler.html)-- As it's the only one with the same general shape as whats in the catback. With that being said, i'd be willing to try it out, but can anyone tell me the inlet/outlet of the stock muffler so i can be sure to get the correct model? Thanks!

I installed these last night. Picked them up off of ebay for $199 shipped. These should hold me over until I pick up the Amp Research ones. They fit great, no issues with install. http://www.ebay.com/itm/311710267561?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The C7 is awesome man, honestly I think it's the best value for an all around sportscar right now. They're coming down in price, too! And I didn't think i'd care that much about the targa top, but my god that's my favorite thing about the car. "Convertible" when you want (I live in Arkansas, where it was literally 90 degrees last week!) and hardtop when you dont. It's great!

predator? where?! And it's an IS-250 F-Sport, but I appreciate the compliments!

Now now lets not get too excited, just a IS-250 F-Sport haha! The GS' are really nice though! tha'll probably be her upgrade when she moves on from this one!

good eye! And yes that's my fun toy, the truck is the DD Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk

Made some LED bar brackets from scratch to mount up a 24" led bar I had laying in my garage. waiting on a wireless HD relay harness, but have it hooked up via a switch right now. This thing is BRIGHT for $30! Morimoto 35w HID kit, and LED fogs from iJDMToy: HIDs, LED Fogs, and Light Bar:

I appreciate the response, but I included it in the original request that I dont have the Bose system, as that seems to make a huge difference in where you tap in. As i've been going along today preparing for this install, here is other info i've gathered: ITEM WIRE COLOR LOCATION Left Front Speaker (+/-) // blue - brown/blue // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 1 - 9 Right Front Speaker (+/-) // yellow - yellow/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 2 - 10 Left Rear Speaker (+/-) // green - green/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 3 - 11 Right Rear Speaker (+/-) // white - blue/black // radio, green 16 pin plug, pins 4 - 12 I was hoping to just tap in at one of the plugs in or near the BCM, which may be possible, I just don't know. A tip that I got is to pull the B-Pillar panel (between front & rear doors), pull back or cut the tape on the wires going into the rear door to look for the speaker wires. It should be the ONLY TWISTED PAIR in the bundle. I may go this route since I don't know if there is an amp after the green 16 pin plug at the radio. Forgot to mention which power source I used for the amp's remote on.... If you look under the driver's side dash between the brake pedal and parking brake, you'll see the fuse/relay box (it's about 6" x 10" and has a smooth black plastic cover, just like on the GMT-900's). Pry the clasps on each side to remove. On my SLT there are three main banks, left to right, with the first being unoccupied (see attached pic). The slots within first bank are labeled 1-20, though only 11 actually have male connectors. I used my tester to determine the following: #'s 7 & 17 are constant 12v power [always on], #'s 10 & 11 are grounds, and #8 is the RAP [retained accessory power] ignition signal wire (again, see attached pic) For newbies, RAP powers on with the key rotated to the first position and remains on until the ignition is turned completely off AND the driver's door is opened, just like the factory radio.

Anyone have any ideas on this? I scanned a thread yesterday for a long time and came up with one person that stated these were the wires to tap into, but no one said anything else -- Anyone have a picture of the harness i'm looking for to tap into? For non-Bose, you can tap the rear speaker wires in the B Pillar before they go thru the harness to the rear doors. They are twisted pairs. Left Rear Speaker (+) green // (-) green/black Right Rear Speaker (+) white // (-) blue/black

Hey all, I recently purchased a couple shallow mount subs, a subthump box, and an amp/wiring kit for my 2015 GMC Sierra SLE. I also purchased this line output converter to get the signal to the amp from the stock wiring. I searched for "line output converter" and literally nothing came up on the forum, so i'm curious if anyone knows the easiest place to tap into to get the subwoofer signal to the amp? I'd greatly appreciate any help! My truck is a 2015 GMC Sierra SLE, does NOT have the Bose factory system. PAC LP7-2: http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=1188 Gear i'm adding: 2x Rockford Fosgate P3SD2-12 1x Power Acoustik EG1-2500D -- wired to 2 ohms, about 800w RMS total subthump dual 12" box w/ amp rack space Thanks! Captain

Question -- mine is currently hooked up with JUST the relay, and the HID kit itself. I'm going to put error eliminators/capacitors on the truck, but I need to know specifically which plugs to reverse polarity so i dont blow them up. The way it's set up right now, the plug from the FACTORY harness to the relay kit is flipped, AND the plug from the relay to the driver side ballast is flipped. With that being said, do I flip the capacitor on the drivers side when plugging into the factory harness, AND flip the capacitor on the passenger side from harness to ballast? or do I only need one capacitor? Thank you!

Just to follow up here, I figured it out, but the ONLY way I could get it to work, was bypassing the relay and error eliminators completely, and connecting the ballast straight to the factory OEM plug on both sides....no errors, no flickering, nothing....so I guess i'll just see how long it lasts? ha!

Hey all, so this might be a dumb question, but do you have to start the truck to "test" the HID's? I have mine all apart in the garage right now, I have the Innovited HID kit, with the single input relay harness, and i've double/triple checked all connections, and i'm getting absolutely nothing when i turn the light knob on the left side of the dash. I just picked up the truck, so forgive me that I don't know exactly how to turn on the lights in this truck, or if you can without the key in the ignition. Can anyone chime in so I can wrap this up tonight? Thank you!