A.J. Curtis

Yes they are OEM LTZ headlights. I will check the breather valves! They seem to be okay for the moment.

You are a flipping genius!!! I purchased the headlight used off of another member who drilled the holes in the dust caps. They were completely off for the use with the FX-r projectors. Once I dremel’d out the opening more the headlights aligned perfectly. Any ideas on what to check for moisture getting in where the high beam and turn signals are? While I had the lights off the truck I used a air dryer to get rid of the water and then checked every bulb and gasket on the dust covers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

It handled an iPhone7 pretty good! There is no real support there but it held okay. When I moved it to the cd slot I noticed some slight warping of the plastic from it. It eventually went back to normal. I’m sure if something that weighs more would hold though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you for the suggestion! I will see if that works.

Update! Everything is working flawlessly now! I have one little issue though. My passenger side head light adjuster is maxed out all the way and I can't get the beam any lower. I have FX-r projecters installed in OEM LTZ projector headlights using the Fastheadlights adapters. Does anyone have a suggestion to lower the beam?

I don’t think so but I will look closer. I truly appreciate the help! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I checked the capacitor and it looks correct. Is it possible the capacitor went bad the same moment I swapped the bulbs? I will swap it this weekend and see if that makes a difference. I just don’t understand why it would stop working. You are right everything works fine except for the DRL/running lights Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

That sounds like it is the solution! I will check when I get home. Thank you so much for the help!

Thank you for the response! Yes I only have one capacitor link on the passenger side per the Morimoto instructions as it is on the side closest to the battery. Do I need one on the drivers side? I wired it up per the picture. The Morimoto kit that I have doesn’t use the standard D2S bulb with the large D2S igniters. It uses the D2H bulbs which I think uses a 9006 connector? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hey everyone, I need a little help. I've had a Morimoto Elite HID kit for my low beams the last two year. One of my bulbs went out & I decided to finally install My FX-R Projector retrofit kit from fastheadlights. I used the same existing morimoto HID kit that was already installed and working. I swapped the "bulb Wires" that plug into the "Amp Igniters" and left everything else the same. I lost my DRL/running lights and auto on Both the driver and passenger side headlight turn on and works with all running lights if I have the head light switch turned all the way to ON, other than that I get nothing. I triple checked every connector and they are all firmly connected with a positive "click" sound too. Any suggestions on what to check would be greatly appreciated!

DIBS!!!!!

My switch is arriving today and Im pretty sure it won't work on my late 2015.5 truck. I am hoping Pgamboa can hook a brother up

My KO2’s slipped all over in the rain. My work truck had the good year duratracks and they were okay in the rain but still slipped. I expect the falkens will be as slippery as the KO2’s. It hasn’t rained here in northern California yet so I can’t compare. The KO2’s were great in the snow! Since the falkens are snow rated I also expect them to perform the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thanks! They are ProComp Series 34 Rockwell 17x8.5 6-5.5 / 6-139.7 4.75 BS They come in 17” to 20” https://www.procompusa.com/eSearch.aspx/Wheels-Wheels?N=0Z1vnZ1z141poZ1z13wy4 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Thank you, it’s getting dark but here is a quick shot in the driveway. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I had the BFG tk0s for over 60k miles and liked them but I just swapped for the fallen and so far I gotta say that I like the Falkens more. They are not as loud as the BFG’s and ride great! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Will this mod work for a 2015? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I finally got new meat! The BFG tk02s were great and lasted over 60k miles. So far these Falken wild peak at3w’s have been great. I have noticed that they make much less noise than the BFG. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Okay, I have no idea where the x203 block is lol! I see in the electronic service manual X201, but I searched the entire electronic service manual and can't find any thing labeled X203. I feel like I am taking crazy pills!!!!

Well I had a little success. the dealer quoted me $1,200 with the diagnostic fee! After i schooled them on the issue and how many other people were affected by this faulty part they knocked it down to $925. Then I contacted GM Customer Engagement Center. via the website and got a phone call from a representative with in the hour. They told me they would see what they could do. an hour later the dealer called me and adjusted the price to $495 + the diagnostic fee. The had the truck back to me in one day. No problems so far!

on page 8 of this discussion someone posted these part #s. 23438932 (hose) 1 $127.36 23264893 (bracket) 1 $6.68 12356150 (refrigerant) 2 $14.26 20982844 (*condenser) 1 $256.07

Add me to the list @ 59,855 miles! I filed a complaint at NHTSA and strongly recommend everyone do the same! https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/?_ga=1.203170257.1767629473.1491918395&gclid=Cj0KCQiAh_DTBRCTARIsABlT9MbM5lg_JxE3jrKTIhdTTlxlR3E47xMW85makHHsOXkN-kyvcR10E2saAg53EALw_wcB I will be contacting GM as soon as I am done dealing with the BS the dealer is spitting out!

Exactly what Velocyraptor said! A mid travel kit will not get you the exact look you are going for. I am running a Dirtking mid-travel kit and extended travel Fox 2.5 dsc on all corners. I can not fit 35" tires with out getting the fiberglass fenders and some fabrication. With the idea's you are asking you really need to do the suspension first and the fiberglass fenders and then see how far you wanna go with the fabrication and fiberglass fenders to fit 35"/37" tires. With the 6.2 you will not notice the 35"' upgrade as much but if you decide to go 37" you have to re gear! Yo can not go wrong with Mazzulla, bajakits or dirtking. They are all priced very close. I would contact a company that you are leaning towards and tell them your goals and budget. For a full cantilever long travel set up the rear you are looking at serious $$$$$. If you want a long travel kit your looking at least $7,200 just for the suspension front and rear not installed. The fiberglass fenders are not that expensive, its the fab to fit larger tires and paint that adds up! figure $2,000 for the front fenders with mods and paint. I have no idea what the rear fiberglass fenders cost to install but I would guess another $2,000. Do not forget you have to add up your new wheel tire combo $2,200. The bumper in the photo looks like an ADD or Nfab bumper those are around $2,000? issues not expected: 1) not every shop is good at doing alignments on long or mid travel suspensions so that narrows down places to bring your vehicle. ( you will wnat to have more alignments done with long or mid travel) 2) Replacement parts - all of these kits use uni-ball and heim joints on everything. These will need to be replaced more often than regular bushings and require more maintenance this goes back to issue #1. I.E. oem upper ball joint $50ea vs a uniball $110ea. 3) you can not just go to your local parts store to get these parts. meaning you know you are going to need them almost every 20,000 miles so make sure you buy them and have them on hand if its your daily driver! 4) do to these uniball and hemi joints you will notice more squeeks. not a big deal but be prepared cuz it will happen everytime your truck moves and comes to a stop. 5) While the icon, king and fox shocks/coilovers look amazing and are incredibly comfortable and handle amazing these do require more maintenance as well. They are rebuild-able and is recommended to have them re valved and sealed every 50,000 miles and more every 10,000 miles http://www.ridefox.com/service.php?m=offroad I could go on for days but these are the ones to get you thinking!

That is correct! I made a video installing it on a 2014-2015.

I agree! This is the only reason I did not get a tacoma and went with a full size. More power, more towing, more space for almost the same price!