polarys425

So, any salesman or dealership blaming this on chip shortage is uninformed. It's simply a cost cutting move. I set out to add rear passive button handles on my 2024 1500 Denali. First, none of the necessary wiring is in the truck, in either the door harness, or the body harness. The (passive) rear door handles have two wires. One is ground, the other is 7v signal. The button simply grounds the signal, telling the module to check for FOB and do it's thing. With that said, I have successfully added a rear passive entry handle on my driver side rear door. The other handle is on order. You will need to remove the door panel, the center pillar panels, drivers kick panel, etc. The ground wire for the button can be tied into the door harness ground, and the signal wire will have to go tie in to the drivers passive button wire. On my truck it is pin 17 (blue wire) in the driver door, door/body harness. If I hadn't been so used to having the rear buttons on my '20 AT4, I probably wouldn't go through the trouble of adding them. However, I constantly find myself trying to push the button to open the back door, only to have to reach to the front door.

Finally got it....

Or maybe a $60-$70k truck should come with a $2 12v outlet.....

"Vehicles involved in this recall were placed on stop delivery November 21, 2019" Your vehicle was built long after this recall, and thus wouldn't have been subject to that particular stop delivery order.

Getting a new motor isn't the issue. Being torn down a thousand pieces installing it is. No way i'd pay a new truck price for that.

Any updates?

Nothing like mis-information....

The device.

I disconnected mine when I was having the lane change alert issue. It was only disconnected a couple minutes, but it held it's settings.

Small air ratchet.... it'll slide right in there.

Well, mines been behaving the last couple days..... I guess we'll see.

Well.... these things seem to be buggy. Add another one to the list that has an issue. Mine causes the lane departure warning in my drivers side mirror to illuminate at random. If I drop the throttle setting back to 0, it'll turn off, but randomly turns itself back on. I tried disconnecting and plugging everything back in, but it still does it. I'll have to call Range the next day they're open.

Too bad about the fit as I have the exact same truck.

I'd say that spongy strip explains why long soaking rains are when most people notice leaks.

Only if it weren't missing DFM and Auto start/stop disable. The only things this has over the Pulsar that I'd want are tap to pass count, window up, and maybe remote start run time.

Thanks for the info, that will help. Around about how much did yours run?

Have a jacket stuffed in one....

What can you tell me about ordering your topper? When looking on Leers website, it says 100XQ does not fit with multi pro tailgate.....

I carry a lithium jump box because i've heard this before. I also carry jumper cables, for someone else to use, with someone else's car at their own risk.

No where in my post to you is any denial about package matters. I even stated Chevy has a better package. My post to you was about you making excuses for weight, gears, wind direction, moon phase, planetary alignment, solar flares, earthquakes, hurricanes, and your underwear being too tight. Point is, when you pull up to a stoplight, or tree at the track, you don't get spotted distance because you weigh more, or have two less gears, or .4 liters less motor. You get to "run what ya brung".

I said it was a moot point, because you hit the speed limit of the tires BEFORE you hit the limit of any other parts. Therefore if you don't exceed the tires speed rating, you don't have to worry about anything else. Obviously you didn't read the part about functioning up/beyond their design specification. When you go changing the stock speed limiter, you're asking those parts to perform outside that design spec, and that's on you. Don't be a Richard Cranium.

Using a couple of stick pins, some wire and a switch makes this mod a lot easier. The stick pins will slide in much easier than the leads on the diode. The switch (connected to the wire, and not seen in the picture) allows quick and easy deactivation of the mod for state inspection, etc.

Running 93 in your 6.2? rear gear in some of the rams make a difference too. The Rebel has a 3.92 rear, so it depends how the trans gear ratios stack up against the 10spd.

If.If.If..... If a frog had wings he wouldn't bump his @ss when he jumps either. You can cry weight (even thought the Chevys and GM weigh as much or more) and gears and all you want, it doesn't change anything. "drop a Hemi in that chevy" blah blah blah. The trucks come from the factory as they come. If a 5.3l 10spd beats a 5.7 ram, then there's no making excuses, it is what it is. Chevy has the better package.

Point is, A) the driveshaft isn't paper thin. B) the stock speed limiter is set to the rating of the OEM tires that came on it. C) any other limiting factor is a moot point as those parts are functioning up to/beyond their design specification.