flyingfool

aftermarket sells a thicker cro-moly rod upgrade, i would hope it doesnt happen again

i did

well 6spd vs 8 speed 1-2 forward gears... are almost identical 3.72vs 3.42. but still torque gain is far better with a 3.72 in the 8speed , better off the line stop and go city driving with 35" tires

me thinks you guys have way too much free time on your hands....

if you want to run a 35 tire, you need 3.73 rear gears at minimum, and 4.10 at best

i still see no reason why these trucks need a vacuum pump when for years we've been using manifold vac for brake booster power, just run a simple hose to your manifold and delete the damn pump..

is there not enough manifold vacuum to charge the booster on these trucks, I'll have to see what the scan tool say's , cause there is no reason we need a vac pump if the truck produces plenty on its own...

thats true, plastics and rubber crumble in the heat

I would try installing Green stuff EBC pads up front before doing a Caliper upgrade. way cheaper using pads that don't glaze the rotors

synthetic oils are tolerable of high heat, but I would add an oil cooler if you do more towing. its the non synth oil that turns to sluge when you hit these kinda temps

yeah these trucks have other issues going on, it's not the calipers or stock rotors... they have the braking power but there is an issue going on with the proportioning valve system

unfortunatly big brakes dont stop better, they are just more heat and fade resistant. stock is great. the smaller lighter rotors and calipers have better handling that these porky bits.. where did you source these from an ISUZU NPR 4500 HD? These trucks need better brake bias in the propotioning valves, and more aggressive brake pad compounds... unless your pulling a 14,000lbs boat or trailer this is a waste of money and time IMO

3.70 gears or 4.11 gears will increase the ability for V4 mode to stay on 4 cylinders at highway speeds and durring slight upward grades. cut out the flapper valve in the exhaust, then you want the 17" steel wheels from the work truck or the police tahoe with the eco tires that run at higher psi. this has a smaller footprint on the road and less mass than the 20-22" wagon wheels. Definatly want to run 91 octane that will yield 2 mpg over low grade 87 octane! next you should lower the truck to reduce turbulance and drag under the body, after that , drop your tailgate so it's not a drag bucket!!

just do the t-stat delete first , one step at a time grasshopper

look it up on youtube many people show the how to vid.

what size is the upper gm rad hose in inches?

heres a 170 i want to try out https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072JQ57Y1/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 cheaper housing https://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WN0072-Inline-Thermostat-Housing/dp/B003NDHHAW/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2/131-5166147-3637010?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003NDHHAW&pd_rd_r=4463fe89-540e-11e9-9f39-25571fcafcbf&pd_rd_w=88Qw6&pd_rd_wg=Hios7&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ABA38AMZ059QP0VNYE37&psc=1&refRID=ABA38AMZ059QP0VNYE37

after deleting the trans t-stat i run 120-135 all day long, no aux trans. cooler nessecary, even with a 7500 lbs trailer towing in the desert, I never got past 150F after 120 mile drive with the trailer, I do have 3.73 gears

these are serious questions sir!

try placing a rad clamp around the pivot to give support to the tailgate hinge?, also helps slow down the tailgate thieves

excellent write up, only problem I have with the 180 t-stat from the aftermarket is it's very unreliable..... I would recomment taking a factory t-stat and drilling out a few bi-pass holes to lower the stock temp control, instead of using the aftermarket parts for a 180 temp my origional plan was to use an inline thermostat housing to replace the factory t-stat, this way i can use the old style 350 chevy t-stats from AC/Delco wich come in a range of temps from 150, 165, 170,175, 180-210 F , something like this part.. https://www.amazon.com/Meziere-WN0072-Inline-Thermostat-Housing/dp/B003NDHHAW/ref=sr_1_1?crid=16XGJRKSXVSYZ&keywords=inline+thermostat+for+car&qid=1553956190&s=gateway&sprefix=inline+thermostat+%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-1 it should be noted, these engines are machined and built for the higher temps, so the colder they run, the diamentions of the parts are not fully expanding , thus your clearances will be sloppier. take the pistons, for example. they are a special metalurgy and if not at correct temp, will make a sound like piston slap in the bore witch might trigger knock sensor, and pull timing = lower power., then you have bearing clearances for the oil gallery. Half a thou diamention can really change lube control to the crankshaft also I notice you haven't deleted the thermostat in the tranny yet, , this is a must do for towing!

why would you want an active shutter?

any GM part numbers?

anyone know if the higher end luxury models have better speakers?

where did you get color matched handle at?