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flyingfool

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Everything posted by flyingfool

  1. if you want power , in a truck, why not go with a turbo diesel truck instead, built stronger for higher power output and tons more torque
  2. to build it right , you need to install L83 S/C cam, AFM delete and about 4 hours on a dyno.. $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ CTS-V way cheaper
  3. I wouldn't touch it unless you like wasting precious weekends, sitting in the at the service departments waiting room, who cares if it's warranteed , i have better shit to do with my weekends.... there's a reason "it's for sale..." this truck really isn't all that fast compared to a tuned stock 6.2 truck. I believe it's 1 second quicker , nothing to write home about! its still a heavy pig, stock or boosted , MPG will be worse than factory , like 10mpg... buy an old F-body or used CTS-V if you want supercharged adrenaline
  4. I like your youtube channel. look forward to more of your videos!
  5. i would remove the catalytic convertoers before attempting this, and I suggest going to homedepot and buying a weed sprayer and use that to inject cleaners into the manifold for even distribution
  6. anyone know a part number for the non-fish eye mirror???
  7. i can't seem to get my AFR gauge to work on the truck, anyone else functioning?
  8. haha, funny, did you buy your truck used or new? reason is I bought mine new and snipped the wire to the mic in the headliner so the mic is not functionable, previous owner might have also done this also, or you got a bum mic, I thimk the next project will be to remove the gps antenna so onstar cant recieve my trucks data, lol
  9. i see no point , the drive shaft is only an issue if your drag racing or going over 100mph, or make over 400hp. save your money
  10. going to 17" rims and the 3.08 rear diff, would probably result in some gains
  11. this dude explains how to install PIDS
  12. I have been having a blast using the "torque" app and my cheap amazon $7 obd2 wireless adapter, definatly a must have tool for these complicated trucks just to access all the sensor data. anyways found a cool link on adding gear selector indicator in the app. I'll have to test it this week see if it works.
  13. i'm almost 100% sure the v6 is the same as all L83 or LS motors just missing two cylinders...
  14. have you guys tried the walnut blasting the intake valves to remove build up and improve airflow? you might want to run a boroscope down the manifold see how bad your valves are slugged up.... DYI Walnut Shell Blasting SS 3-27-13.pdf
  15. if it's happened since new, it could be the fuel injection or spark mapping or the variable cam timing mapping in the ecu, which is not quite on point or well tuned, you might have the dealer reflash the ecu with updated software for the ecu , or revert back to a 2015 or 2016 year ecu flash on the computer engine management. I think your truck is too new at 2018 to have serious intake valve clogging due to sludge build-up but it will be the project to tackle in a few years. My truck is a 2016, so it was built late in 2015 or early 2016 and I don't have any bad vibs until it goes into V4 mode which is controlled by the ecu. When in v4 my gas pedal has a slight vibration. it could also be the variable valve timing ... v4 mode requires special valvetrain in the motor in order to disable the cylinders the lifters or cam have to bi-pass the valvetrain. I've heard this part has failed on other trucks. could possibly be a weak lifter that operates V4 mode, This engine is very complicated , and GM is still updating it with fixes for the 2019 models..
  16. seems manual operation is the way to go!
  17. i have yet to see anyone on here successfully fix the vibration issue , yet a new driveshaft might work for a few owners with twisted or a slight bend in the shaft, but how are these trucks different from the past GM trucks that didn't have this vibration issue, that is the question i have to ask. And the one big thing that stands out is the engines have changed. I get a vibration in my truck , but only in the gas pedal not the driveline.. GM has gone to Direct Injection, this is the big tech jump that is causing the vibrations! I'm going to theorize that the engine is out of tune somewhere with the Direct Injection system. Also since the Intake valves are not being washed down with gasoline from a fuel injector, that maybe the pcv system is contaminating and causing coke sludge to form on the intake valves, further causing disruption to airflow to the cylinder head. anyone whose tune and 1970'-1990's era sport bike would understand if the intakes idle vacuum ports are out of balance airflow wise you get bad vibrations at idle
  18. I wanted to find out if any knowlegable guys on here can tell me if they have done this swap? I can't find any type of numbers or specs on the 6.2 TB diamentions, and curious as to how many more mm larger a 6.2 is over the 5.3? do I have to machine any materials off the 5.3L manifold or is it a bolt on swap? Thanks for the info if you can share..!
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