BB68

I didnt read your ramblings and I am not a union promoter but per your first response to imply that union(which is predominately white) labor equals poor craftmanship is ridiculous

Get out here with that idiotic bs.... the only part of that plant you seen was when you were cleaning the restrooms. I worked with a former plant manager down there... let's just see if your all encompassing knowledge can even fill in his last name .. Trent _________?

I was with JD for 20 years.. when they moved their Canadian plant to Mexico we got garbage afterwards of the production moved there. Now I have had 2 possibly 3 Mexico pickups. The 18 had some decal alignment issues. Other than that I didn't see any other build issues, but I never took them apart so if there was some that could cause a shortened life span I never seen them. It probably doesn't matter for me anymore that Im able to trade every few years. With my good GM experiences at hand, the JD experiences will always linger in the back of my mind... if I had the chance to have an identical pickup build from Canada or US I would do everything in my power to get it

I'm thankful not to see many new style HD chevys... esp if I've ate recently

I agree. Our last one hardly knew which end was front. I miss dealing with our local guy but he don't sell GMC

Thats funny, mine don't and I leave them on 100% of the time, first notch up on intermittent. Now if its parked outside overnight and has morning dew on the windowshield then it will.

You guys just need to fly private plane

Whoa I feel targeted... Boat - ✔ Cars - ✔ Amateur drag racing - ✔ Even gambling - ✔ Wife prefers playing some cards for date night over an overpriced overdone steak and $10 drinks, plus we have a chance to win date money back

you're supposed to change oil in leases?

Whats weird is every PDI I have ever preformed included checking every oil reservoir. How do so many get out of the dealers like this? and the dealers that do catch it, are they eating this cost, repeatedly?

I've bought my kids cars on my GM card because the rewards were worth more than the CC fee

With as many vehicles they sell, if this was a routine strategy we would have seen someone report it way before this. Even with losing 1k its a better deal than I received locally. I would have went there but NHT were out of stock everywhere

I guess we would need to know what exact engine youre comparing because the displacement and capacity are incorrect. The premium my 6.2 requires is more than diesel 90% of the time and the 3.0 is pretty equal to it towing wise. I agree the maintenance is going to much greater and lets face it, if you own a modern diesel past warranty you have some pretty big kahunas. What I dont understand with the 3.0l baby max is with as low and large as its torque curve is, why does it need 3.73 gears for max tow package? The gas engines with higher rpm curves would greatly improve their ability here... With current fuel prices I considered a diesel but the flashbacks of being a diesel tech for 20 years kept me from doing so with the limited amount of miles I use the pickup during winter months.

Ya but what one goes best with my Lynyrd Skynyrd tee shirt and jorts?

I own a half ton because I have found that a capable S10/Canyon with get less mpg than 5.3/6.2 1/2ton

This is what I have learned. Get a GM CC, use responsibly, run every darn thing you can thru it - We do over 30k per year(I have paid $0 in interest fees), save up the rewards. This card currently has a 4% incentive for new GM vehicles. Then wait 2-3 years until GM runs a special. BUY NEW pickup, take them up on the discount and then after the deal is made tell them about the GM card you have with $****** of rewards on it.... This is way cheaper than any darn warrantees or the hassles you have to jump thru to get them to pay up for repairs. Finally send me a birthday card with gift certificate for supper somewhere thanking me. You dont want to keep any of these tech laden monsters past the 3 year warranty point. And thats about the point of best trade in value too.

Tell him you aren't asking for warranty and you'll give $xx in cash no receipt just for your and his amusement and to see just how long it will last.... Just for any future viewings of this thread and your fyi, I just received a photo of the 10 year old lens i was speaking of albeit this car is now a work car, covered in bugs, and just got hit by someone backing up. But if you look closely thru all the dead bugs you can see the crystal clear headlight. Before I sanded all the old yellowed UV protection it was about as bad as they get. Now that body guy stating the glass is too smooth ...its plastic not glass... Just how many plastic bumpers does he paint? How many plastic bumpers do you see with paint just falling off?? Some people can be lead to the water, shown the results and still.... ugh...(referring to the bodyshop you're trying to work with) With all this being said.. If your pickup will be in the garage as much as you say the store 3M kit will likely last for years.

What in the world??? They'll sand them but not hang during another repair and spray??? I've also done the bodyshop quicky with a buffer and HD 3M buffing compound. 30 seconds and they look new again but the UV protective coating is now gone(the yellow you just removed) and now made this a maintenance item.. depending on how much sun they see.. This is pretty much how any of the parts store resto kits do..

I agree no dealer would want an undesirable trade, that would be ridiculous. This is a smaller population area .. for our whole state.... and dealer trades are the norm for this market segment. While not all local dealers work together at 100% with each other trades do happen on a routine basis here. It allows the dealers that only carry 3-6 of a particular model to an extended inventory. Plus all the dealers are still feeling from supply chain and "allocation" and still need deals

That does make sense.... and to think about it the only time I remember seeing it is when I haven't shut the pickup off. Every time its happened to me I dont recall it coming on again after start up. This also reminds me ... In the company I work for, we have machines that also have CAN controller systems but they are less advanced then automotive. When I have had issues in the past our software engineer has discussed with me that on certain non critical faults arent recorded or errors are contributed by not having all the controllers boot up at the same time. What happens is that on a system boot all controllers are looking for interaction from other controllers establishing the network, regardless the before on the last est.. Depending how the software was written these controllers will not recognize these noncritical faults or messages from "new after-boot controllers". GM has probably written the software around the parameters that the truck should be shutoff during trailer connect and we're just seeing this glitch from real life expectations.

I recommend the body shop route with sanding them down yourself. That's 80% of the cost of fixing them, then taking to the body shop to have sprayed. Doing it this way should only be slightly higher than any auto store resto kit and you will never have to worry about yellow headlights again

Yes I have. I've done every way mentioned in this thread. Headlight resto kits are only temporary. Clearcoat out of a spray can will yellow. If you want a permanent fix - sand headlights until all yellow is gone. I start with 400 and go to 6 or 800. Then I spray them with very good 2 part automotive clear coat. There are many different grades of clear with O'Reilly selling the lowest rung, which is still 10x better than spray can clear. I just buy a quart can and it will come with activator and I always have reducer around you will need that too to mix and for clean up. I just use a cheap ebay touch up paint gun. I've done over 10 sets on a quart of clear. One of the oldest sets I've cleared is 10 years old, handed the car down to one of our kids, they still look brand new. You could also sand them down (that's the most important step. If you see any scratches you will see them 10 fold after clearing. It needs to be very consistent surface), take them to a body shop and see if they would clear them the next time they shoot a car. If all the work is done usually they'll do it pretty cheap as the product is paid for and will be waste anyway. You might have to find a smaller mom and pop shop tho. Mind you after the sanding is its only 5 minutes of work after that if the clear is mixed up

They haven't been able to fix this gain issue as my 23 does the same thing. I'm not going to bother my dealer with the issue

Yup.. I really don't know why the dealer just hasn't done a dealer trade either?? His pickups are never off the popular path for options.

Our 70's 80's 454s received 60's 396 cast iron intakes($40 swapmeet items) a mild cam, and dual glass pack exhaust. results in +4 mpg on them with about 425hp 500lbs torque. very fun vehicles after that. btw we would reuse the factory Qjet