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Lsgun1

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Everything posted by Lsgun1

  1. Wouldn't pulling the headlight be easier? I haven't been that deep in the body structure but that sounds a little ridiculous
  2. Yes the 840 number is just the newest part number.
  3. To unplug it pull the red locking tab back then compress the connector, you'll feel it move when you squeeze it.
  4. No they are not. There are HID which were standard and a "full LED" option. The way to identify is the turn signal on the LED headlights is on the bottom half of the lens, not in the middle.
  5. Unfortunately since it was all new stuff for 14 it took some figuring out. AC and lifters were the big ones so at least you got them out of the way ?. If it makes you feel better my old bosses tundra was towed multiple times for no starts and it took the dealer a week to figure out.
  6. Afm is the only thing I'd consider to be a major failure. You got it all under warranty so it's all good but I understand why you'd be mad. Everything breaks at some point.
  7. Bad idea and You'll need control arms for that height too so there's no real cheap way. Do it the right way.
  8. The general consensus is get the Daubart chemical factory stuff and just touch up as needed. I've used NH Oil Undercoating and it slightly softened the coating up but seems to provide another layer of protection. Avoid high pressure under carriage washed they'll just blow off the frame wax.
  9. My front defrost light went out at 12k. They replaced the whole module.
  10. Sounds like limp mode. Could happen for a bunch of reasons.
  11. The factory LED light kit is pretty good. https://www.ebay.com/i/152655414954?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=152655414954&targetid=935431404853&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9001903&poi=&campaignid=10829254281&mkgroupid=106351005733&rlsatarget=pla-935431404853&abcId=9300396&merchantid=101673948&gclid=CjwKCAiAiML-BRAAEiwAuWVggvGC_-KkAOHosbz9YCn5kzq7Ct0YvO57ob4fNnmGWIo8t6Jr8p0CFBoClIIQAvD_BwE
  12. Don't forget the materials they are made from. Stainless is the way to go.
  13. If your AC works you aren't leaking oil from the refrigeration system, the gas would come out first. Have you had the truck serviced at all lately?
  14. I bought a full set of factory flaps when I got my truck, got home to install and saw they wanted me to drill into the body so I returned them. Dumb idea, they can easily punch another hole and the factory and paint it.
  15. Damn that's yellow! No go for me.
  16. Of those choices the round black ones but I'd go aftermarket if that's an option. Plenty of aftermarket parts are better then factory and its only a few bolts on each side to install them so don't pay the dealer.
  17. The below 500 idle is normal, my 18 does it and has since new. A lot of complaints about it because it feels like it's going to stall but that's how they programmed the idle for some reason. Cruise could be in 4 cyl then going back to v8. Don't know what a chug feeling is but when is the last time you changed the spark plugs?
  18. Did you install this stuff? How did it come out?
  19. Did you ever put these on? Would like to see the look bolted up.
  20. Could be an injector too.
  21. Ok I would be mad as well. I wouldn't just replace it since the truck is driving ok just shifts a little different. Try a flush and see what happens.
  22. Fluid wears out, just change it and be on your way. You want to fight over a couple hundred dollar service that is supposed to be done regularly anyways. https://my.gm.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2016/Chevrolet/Silverado/2016 Chevrolet Silverado1500.pdf There's a service schedule
  23. Expensive. Go through insurance cause of of pocket will hurt.
  24. Serviceable as in replaceable? I don't see why not.
  25. Before the new one goes in just change the cam and lifters to delete the AFM. Now you're back to bulletproof 5.3
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