Thought I would share my experience here with a minor upgrade. I have a Denali with the Bose setup and last year I was able to get my hands on the kicker sub add on for about 30% off. GM had some 20% off MSRP thing going last fall and my brothers work for GM and were able to order with another 10% off through a dealer. Install was easy and added a decent amount of sound. A few weeks ago I replaced the door speakers front and rear with JBL concert series along with adding quite a bit of Dynamat. Crutchfield had the speakers discounted a decent amount so I purchased though them. My experience with the door speakers is mixed. The rears are definitely an upgrade as the OEM speakers were basically 1 way and sounded like a clock radio speaker. The rears are now bright and clear. The fronts on the other hand don't sound a lot different than OEM. The OEM speakers were more mid bass focused and even though the new speakers are 3 ways, there are no highs. They are a bit crisper in terms of mid bass vs the muddy low Bose so a very minor upgrade. I'm assuming this is due to how the system is tuned as the front of the truck has the dash speakers that are pretty bright. I left the dash speakers alone for now as they sounded OK. What I have done now is adjusted the fade to the rear a few notches to help lower the volume on the fronts so now quite a bit more sound from the rear can be heard so there is much more of a 360 sound now. Its actually pretty good. One thing I never see mentioned that I thought might be helpful is that most new phones (I always stream and never store any music on board) have built in EQs that can be adjusted. Androids for sure have this under advanced sound settings. There is a 10 band EQ that can be used to fine tune output. I also use premium music services through Tidal, Google Music and LiveXLive (Used to be Slacker). Yes I spend upwards of 30 a month on all of these but the premium versions provide access to the higher quality music so they sound better. Many use the free versions or Sirius XM which will always be at a lower quality due to bandwidth and wont sound as good. They are not terrible but just wont be as good as the high rate stuff. I have adjusted the EQ to help maximize the quality of the sound output as much as possible. At this point I am really happy with the results. Nice and clear and loud. I am going to go bigger on the sub and am mulling over the direction. I think that will round out the system pretty nicely.
The steering wheel and center bezel from the badlander picture is probably hydro dipped vs wrapped. Hydro dipping uses an actual carbon fiber layer and usually gets clear coated when finished. You can see quite a difference between those pieces in terms of color and clarity vs the OEM faux pieces. Wrapping them in vinyl is probably the least expensive option and shouldnt be difficult for most to do. It wont look any better than the OEM pieces but it will cost a quite a bit less and is reversible without having to keep the old parts laying around. Im actually thinking of painting/covering the silver trim ring around the center console where the cup holders are which will mean doing all of the silver to keep it matching. Not sure if others have run into this but the mid day sun hits that trim ring and can be a bit blinding and comes out of nowhere depending upon the direction you are driving and how the sun hits it. Same for having a phone in the charger. Ive already started to mod the center arm rest to support induction charging to resolve that.
Had the 305/55/20 ridge grapplers installed last week. Ride is a ton better than it was with the 295/60 E load rated ridge grapplers. The 305s are D load rated vs the OEM C load rated so they are still a bit stiffer than OEM but still the 305s are a 4 ply tire and softer overall. The visual difference on the truck is so small that I cant even tell the difference so didnt bother taking more pictures. I will say that even with some minor trimming of the mud flaps, the 295/60 had some minor rubbing at full lock. There is 0 rubbing now with the 305s. Even though the the 305s are 1 inch wider (11.5 vs. 12.5) on a 20x9 they are right about 12 wide. Im guessing that on a 20x10 they would be closer to the 12.5. With this change my speedo is also back to normal (was off by 2-3 mph depending upon speed) and I removed 60 lbs of rotating mass (15 per wheel/tire). This seems to be the sweet spot for my truck now so hopefully others with a Denali who are contemplating doing something like this will benefit from this info.
I have another thread going on the wheels and tires thread. I have a '19 Denali and I would highly recommend against using E/F load rated tires with ARC. I went with a suspensionmaxx 2.5 front and 1.5 rear level and a 295/60/20 ridge grappler. GM is a customer of my companies for some software and after having a number of ride related issues since putting on my 295/60/20 E load rated ridge grapplers, I reached out for some help with the suspension. I was finally able to talk to a GM engineer last week and he said that I will likely ruin my shocks with 10-15K miles due to the harshness of the tires and the sensitivity of the ARC system. I had already ordered a new set of 305/55/20s with the normal P car XL load rating but still wanted to ask some questions about the ARC system. Needless to say, replacing the tires should help a lot. He didnt have any concerns with the leveling kit as its not very big and it relocates things properly enough such that it shouldnt be causing any issues with the computer. Replacing the shocks on a denali is also a no go for now. There is a company named XIngineering I think it is that makes eliminators for the old mag ride shocks which then make it so you can put new shocks on. If you pull the shocks as is many of the electronics will fail as its all tied together with the various modes you can change (touring, sport, etc.), ABS, transmission behavior, etc. There are no options for the new ARC system yet so I went with the basic level but I would stay away from E/F load rated tires for the time being.
A 285/60 should fit just fine with either wheel size. A 285/60 is about a 33.5 x 11 and a 285/55 is 32.3 x 11. I would personally run the 285/60 as its only .5 inch taller than stock whereas the 285/55 is nearly an inch shorter. That 285/60 under load will probably sit at about 33 inches on the truck. The 285/55 under load will be less than 32 inches and look small on the truck/wheel plus will cause the speed to be off more.
What width of a 20 inch wheel and what brand/model? Your offset will depend a lot upon that. Im running a 20x9 Fuel Rage with a +1 offset running a 295/60/20 which is a 34x11.5 tire. Running a 20x10 will be different. A 20x9 with a +12 offset seems a bit pushed inside (positive pushes the wheel closer inward) but the backspacing may play a factor here with the wheel design. A 285/55/20 should fit a stock GM 20 inch wheel so what you are asking for should work in theory.
What specifically do you need for this? Looks like the larger tailgate harness, amp, no drill bracket and the speaker harness? Optionally the cutouts if you dont want to do it yourself? https://multiprorocks.com/collections/all/products/soundstream-st4-1000db-blutooth-amplifier https://multiprorocks.com/collections/all/products/multipro-tailgate-harness https://multiprorocks.com/collections/all/products/amplifier-mounting-bracket https://multiprorocks.com/collections/all/products/speaker-wiring-harness
Went back and double checked the wheel and tire weights comparing the OEM 22s vs my new setup. Its actually a 19lb difference (Stock is 85lbs total and current setup is 104lbs) so quite a difference. If I change out to a 305/55/20 Nitto that will drop this to 89lbs so only a 4lb increase over stock but a 15lb difference with my current setup. I must have mixed up one of the tires when I was originally researching all of this as I was looking at a ton of different combinations. I also measured the current amount of space between the current 295/60 tire (runs at 33.9 x 11.77 width per Nitto) and my UCA and its right about 1.75 inches on each side and that was measuring off of the raised tread blocks. The 305/55 runs at 33.2 x 12.44 wide on a 9.5 inch wheel which I think will settle more into a 12.25 on a 9 inch wheel plus they are a bit shorter. Should be plenty of room and I have already done a bit of mud flap trimming to better accommodate the 34 inch tires on there now. Needless to say I went ahead and ordered the 305/55/20 Nittos today with the shop I use agreeing to buy my originals back at a decent price as they only have about 1,500 miles on them. I wont have time to get this done until the end of the week at the earliest but will report back once its done.
I was running the 22s so this new setup is only about 12lbs more per wheel vs 25 but yes they are definitely heavier. I had originally looked at those 305/55s and while they are about .5 inch shorter (The 295/60/20 is a 34x11.5) they are also nearly 1 inch wider and there were concerns about rubbing with the offset of the wheel I chose - 20x9 +1 offset. Running those would also get me under the weight of the stock 22s and a shorter tire but I will have to do some measuring to see what another inch of tire does with rubbing on the UCA. I'm already getting a minor rubbing at full lock with these so anything wider will probably make that quite a bit worse.
Update on mine for those that have been asking how the ride is. The ride is definitely nowhere near like it was and its actually bad in some cases. I was completely expecting a firmer feel and actually wanted a bit more feel to it. I’ve got this annoying issue with the rear hopping all over all the time. I've tried a number of different air pressures all the way down to 30 in the rear cold and no better. The front is butter smooth. Unfortunately in CA, every highway is under construction and with the new tires it’s just a rough ride all the time. I’ve had them balanced 3 times now and even had 1 tire replaced for being impossible to get balanced. I've also had the level kit checked to make sure nothing came loose and everything torqued and no issues there. I even called Suspensionmaxx and had them go over things with me just to make sure something wasn't installed wrong by the shop. One thing they and the shop I worked with pointed out is that with the ARC system, it could be that the heavy duty tires coupled with the stock leaf springs which will deflect a lot more are causing the ride control to attempt to constantly smooth things out which is in turn exaggerating things. I am now looking at putting Deaver leaf springs. Their design is such that it should smooth out any leaf spring based suspension as they use many thinner leafs vs a few thick ones and that on its own will remove some of the natural truck bed bounce we all have anyway. I don’t need it back to stock as I actually prefer a bit more feel of the road but it’s no longer comfortable to drive above 70. Local driving up to 55 is fine but once you get up to highway speeds on anything that isn’t 1000% perfectly smooth it’s pretty annoying.
I'm running the suspensionmaxx 2.5 level in front and 1.5 in the rear. with 295/60/20 nitto ridge grapplers. That is a 34 inch tire, same as you are going for so you get about a 3.5 lift out of this setup. If you want to keep the ride the same as stock dont go with E load rated tires and you should be pretty happy without the more intrusive bigger lifts. I personally plan to replace the shocks with something better once there is an eliminator for the stock ARC shocks. Until this, this is fairly inexpensive and wont put too much load on the stock system.
That tire is 12.5 wide. If you are running it on a stock wheel, the spacers would make sense as I think the stock tire is 11.4 wide. Its probably getting really close to the UCA given the factory offset.
With the move to an E load rated tire I didnt want 22s. It definitely rides a bit rougher over smaller bumpy terrain but the OEM 22s with highway tires were not a lot better. On smoother pavement there is no difference from the OEM 22 setup and these Nittos are pretty quiet. One thing I am struggling with is the rear. As many have experienced, the rear is a bit bouncy which I believe is due to the leaf/shock combo. The higher load rated tires have added a bit to this. Problem is on the 19/20 Denali, there arent any real options (yet), for being able to cancel out the ARC sensors and swap shocks. Not terrible for sure but one thing that has caught me off guard a few times with it feeling like the rear is bouncing all over small bumps. The E load rated tires have added to this a bit. I did call Nitto for guidance on air pressure as well and I am going with 40 up front and 36 in the rear for daily road driving. They were set at 50 cold before. The drop has helped a bit. I am also researching swapping to an Icon/King/Fox setup in the future. From other posts on this, that upgrade seems to help a ton and I cant really tell any suspension specific differences between any of the drive modes (Touring, Sport, etc.) so dont think I will be losing anything with a shock swap. More to come on this when there is an option for the ARC sensors. For anyone else interested I have also swapped to color matched mirror caps and black vinyl emblem stickers so that the Denali emblems are covered a bit. I also have OEM black GMC emblems so the Denali emblems match the OEM black ones with a little polish around the edges. I also painted the exhaust tips black. I went with a gloss black wheel with some machine finish to help keep with the black and chrome look it has right now.
I just had my Denali leveled with the suspensionmaxx kit. 2.5 front and 1.5 rear. Its pretty level now with this setup. I think if you were to go 2 in the front without the rear being moved up at least 1 inch, the front will look raised a bit. Here is a pic of mine for reference.
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