Smrtasp

When we start seeing 450+ mile ranges, it may start to make sense. The range numbers being provided are a bit misleading and it’s only a matter of time before manufacturers will have to publish city and highway ranges like we see with ICE cars. For the typical driver, the published ranges are not going to happen unless its downhill with a tailwind on the highway. City driving will use a lot more energy and that 350-mile published range will only come at a full charge and for daily driving scenarios, you don't want to charge the battery full each time. It will be more like 90% for daily use plus upwards of 25% loss for city driving. That gets even more compounded in cold climates where the electronics will keep the battery warm which will burn even more range. Now imagine all of that towing or carrying a few thousand pounds and pretty quickly having a truck for anything beyond city driving and the occasional road trip will not be very convenient. Also note that the examples of fast charging we are seeing in commercials and marketing materials assume level 3 charging. I know there has been a big investment to roll out more charging but most of what was available a few years ago was level 2 at best. I come from the experience of having owned a Tesla for 9 years now. I have a 2013 model S with a VIN under 5000 (there are over a million on the road now) and just about to break 155K miles on it. It’s our around town car now. When it was new, we did lots of road trips in it, but the charging thing got old after a while. Tesla has invested heavily in this and there are a ton more charging locations around now but there was a point where it wasn’t as convenient. With so many more Teslas on the road now, charging on the road can be full and it takes a while vs getting gas. With quite a few impending electric vehicles on the way from Ford, GM, Cadillac, Rivian, etc. we are going to see an explosion of people charging. I recall a time when Tesla was sending notices to people who would not charge at home and instead use their superchargers which is one of the reasons they no longer give supercharging for free with new cars. On the plus side, at 155K miles I have had very few issues with it outside of some early on stuff that were handled at less than 25K miles. It drives like the day it was delivered. Using it for local commuting and city driving (errands, local stuff) and having the truck for road trips/camping/mountains is a good combo. I would encourage anyone considering this as their only vehicle to really think about where it will be parked, access to charging stations in areas they usually travel, electricity rates for charging at home, etc. As an only vehicle, it will require some adjustment compared to having an ICE vehicle.

Will chime in with my experience with a new S&B install. I have a 2021 AT4 6.2 with a fabtech kit on it (coil overs up front with new rear shocks lifted about 3 inches over a stock AT4). From an MPG perspective, I was getting about 13.5 around town and after 500 miles with the S&B, I am seeing in the low 14s. With really reserved driving I get over 15. Not a huge jump but more than I was getting before. I did not reset the MPG counter prior to installing BTW so it was still showing its original numbers. I haven’t done enough highway driving yet to see if there is any benefit there but the fact that it did not go down is a bonus itself. I will say that I have had a few check engine lights since installing mine. Each happened after about 150 miles of driving. The first time I pulled the battery and made sure everything was tight and let it sit for a few hours to clear whatever caused it. Even though I had tightened everything at the time of install, the MAF screws were a bit loose and so was one side of the MAF extension cable. The second time it happened I was our running errands and the light cleared itself and hasn’t come back on with another ~100 miles of driving.

Finally got my S-Type installed yesterday. My 2019 had the GM performance exhaust which was the Borla Touring. Exactly what I was going for with a bit more sound out of the S-Type. At idle and initial acceleration it is definitely louder but not overly and with the windows up on the freeway I cant tell the difference inside between this and the touring exhaust. I had it installed by my dealer and the tech had also recently installed a true dual S-Type and said he couldnt tell the difference between the 2 systems from a sound perspective. Maybe after some break in time there will be a difference but seems like out of the box they are close enough so not really sure what the benefit of the true dual is over the regular one.

On my old 2019 Denali I was running a 2.5 leveling kit with 20x9 +1s and originally had 295/60/20 ridge grapplers. Did not ride well with the E load rated tire and rubbed quite a bit, even with mods to the mud flaps. I swapped the 295/60/20 E load for a 305/55/20 D load ridge grappler. Better ride, tires weighed quite a bit less and no more rubbing.

I don't think so. The OP confirmed that the true dual is a 2-1-2 such that its 2 separate pipes that drop into a single muffler and then split back out. The regular is a bit easier to install as it meets up behind the y pipe past the cats so only needs a single cut. It is also the same design that the touring and atak use (as well as Corsa and other systems) with the single in dual out design. One thing to also notice is that the regular stype and the atak are the same setup with the exception of a small resonator behind the muffler. That can be removed and their straight pipe put in and now you have the atak setup so easy to adjust if the stype isnt loud enough.

Traded my red 2019 Denali with the suspensionmaxx level kit and fuel wheels for a grey 2021 AT4 that the dealer had lifted after it was delivered from the factory. The total lift is 4 inches over the factory AT4 2 inch for a total of 6 inches along with 18 inch fuel wheels running 35x12.5x18 Toyo open country 3s. The kit is a fabtech with 2.5 dirt logic coil overs up front and 2.25 rear shocks. After some research it looks like more like a 5 inch lift plus the 35s which give it the full 6 inch over a stock truck. Rides fantastic, better than my Denali did with the level kit. 2 weekends ago I also took it out on the Burns Canyon Trail (So Cal) which runs from Yucca Valley (Pioneertown) up to Big Bear. It did awesome so looking forward to spending more time off road with this one.

Just finished installing this setup over the weekend. Not much more to it than the OEM kicker add on but sounds a ton better if you are looking for a harder hitting sub. I was also able to cut up the underseat storage box and keep a section of it under the single passenger rear seat so looks pretty factory. Wiring was pretty light as well with just needing the power wire ran down the passenger side from the battery. The harness I added plugged right in between the factory harness and amp with high level speaker wires coming out. It even came with a volume knob that I ran to the driver side under the steering wheel so its hidden away but easy enough to reach down and adjust as needed. For nearly the same price as the kicker setup, this is 2x-3x the sound.

For what its worth, I had a 19 Denali Ultimate with 22s and leveled it and also dropped to 20 inch wheels with D load rated nittos so they weren't the E rated 10 ply heavier tires. Would not do it again. I initially went with an E load rated tire and immediately pulled those and went with a lighter tire to help the ride plus the combined weight of the 20 inch wheels and lighter tire were near the stock weight of the 22s. It did help a bit but the biggest issue was a constant vibration. In 2WD it always felt like a tire was out of balance starting at about 65 MPH and got a bit worse up through 85. In AWD/4WD it always vibrated under acceleration above about 30 mph. I paid to have the tires rebalanced 3 times at 3 different shops after the initial install as well. I didn't drive it anywhere near as much during Covid so it wasn't that big of a deal for a lot of the time that I owned it. I traded it back in May for 21 AT4 that came with a proper coil over lift (fabtech dirt logix) and 35x12.5x18 Toyo Open Country 3s and it rides a ton better than my Denali did - mostly because it isn't constantly shaking at higher speeds.

The big difference with the GM CAI is they were going after CARB certification for compliance and haven't gotten it yet for their 2021 models. You can order a new one with the GM CAI included and its fine so this is only an issue for adding on later, at least for now. This is also why it is available for 2019 and 2020 as they did get the CARB cert for those years. Just about any plug and play CAI will work just fine but you will notice a call out now on almost any site/brand that says not CARB compliant where a state requires it. In CA, smog is only needed after 6 years on a new vehicle and I'd bet half don't keep their trucks that long anyway nor have I heard or seen anyone ever complain about failing smog for a CAI being installed.

I just ordered the same setup. Prices have gone up though. The box with integrated amp is 289 and they also offer the harness referenced above directly for 89. I also ordered a 10 inch JL from Crutchfield. With the converter and wiring it will run just under 600 or about the same cost as the kicker option and install should be similar thanks to the harness that comes off the factory amp. I wanted to keep some of the under seat storage this time (Will have to cut part of it away but should be able to keep 60% of it) so went this route given the pricing being nearly the same as the kicker solution. The 8inch kicker sounded pretty good but this 10 should sound more where I would like it to and save me some of the under seat storage that I wanted to keep. Will follow up with how it turns out. The box will be here in about a month so will be a bit.

Sounds like it’s only for 2021s right now. If it’s ordered and factory installed and delivered that way its fine, it’s just the dealer installed ones after purchase. 2019 and 2020 have CARB approval so not an issue. It sounds like it’s in process for 2021s so just a matter of time before it will be OK for a dealer to add on afterwards. Realistically you could probably install it anyway as no other CAI comes with a tune but those also advertise as also not being CARB client. I’m sure the CARB approval comes with some minor adjustments to AF ratios with the tune which is where the testing comes in and the delay in releasing it. I put intake and exhaust on almost everything I buy and never get things tuned unless it’s an OEM option.

You did the same that I did to my 2019 Denali. It never rode the same and I was running D load rated ridge grapplers to help with the ride. It was really bouncy like it was ricocheting off everything it hit and a constant vibration around 70 like an out of balance tire (had all wheels checked for being out of round and multiple balances from 2 different shops) and the worst was a harsh vibration under load in AWD mode. It wasnt terrible around town so not a huge deal for the last year while I have been home but I always suspected that leveling it wasnt a good idea. I just traded it a few weeks ago for a new 2021 AT4 that the dealer sent off for a proper lift. Its running a Fabtech kit with dirt logic 2.5 coilovers up front and 2.25s in the rear. Its advertised as a 4 inch lift over the stock 2 inch but the rear block went from 2 to 5 so I think its more of a 3 inch lift with the front leveled plus 35s so thats where I think the full 4 inches over stock comes in. This setup came with new UCAs, steering knuckles, chassis braces to properly move the differential down, etc. For wheels and tires I chose 18x9 fuels with Open Country AT3s which are 35x12.5x18. I've put 1K miles on it so far and can say without a doubt that it rides nearly as good as my stock Denali on OEM 22s with highway tires did before I leveled it. This is with my new AT4 also running an E load rated tire. These coilovers make quite a different up front and 0 vibration at any speed in any drive mode now. I know its unfair to compare given the huge difference in cost but after having messed with my old one for the last year and being convinced that leveling it threw too many things off, this basically confirmed what I always suspected.

I replaced a set on my 2019 Denali with the chrome and black ones and that went perfect. I traded my 2019 for a 2021 AT4 2 weeks ago and just replaced the front emblems again but this time with an all black set where the chrome is painted gloss black. They will not lock in all the way for exactly the same reason that you described above. What I noticed is that these all black ones have those tabs also painted and that probably added just enough extra size to those clips. I ended up focusing more on locking the top ones in and on the bottom you can reach your hand in underneath and behind the mounting area and wrap your fingers behind where the clips lock in. I was able to get a few of them locked in this way as you can touch the clips. On top however its impossible for me to wrap my fingers behind to get to those clips. Messing with it this way for a while finally got them all locked in.

The GM one isn't approved yet for 2021 unless it was ordered and factory installed. Dealers cant put them on yet so they wont sell them right now.

Highly doubt it can be done as the suspension, transmission, etc. are all tied together on ARC equipped trucks with a bunch of different sensors and computers controlling everything to work together.