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superhighsierra

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About superhighsierra

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  1. Duratracs are arguably the GOAT All-Terrain tire. I think most people: 1) Can't afford another set of duratracs 2) Want a bigger tire than what come on a TB 3) Put aftermarket rims on that don't have the same radius as their Duratracs But no mistake, Duratracs are a really nice tire. The only other tire I would consider running is a Nitto Ridge Grappler as they are much lighter and just as quality and aggressive looking.
  2. This... is not a better interior than this... When you factor in the Tundra also has a navigation and entertainment system that runs like it is from 2003 and cheap plastic all over it's not even close. That is not even touching on the dinosaur engine or the exterior styling. Trust and believe I went to the Toyota dealership wanting and ready to buy a full sized Toyota based on how much I enjoyed my 4Runner for the past 13 years, but when it comes down to I couldn't do it not to mention your money goes a lot farther elsewhere. I walked across the street and walked out the door with a fully loaded SLT for 42,500, I would have a hard time getting into a fully loaded TRD Pro Tacoma for that kind of money. Point remains that Toyota's aren't as bulletproof as their fanboys would like to think, and I'm not going to sacrifice every other aspect of the vehicle for that one iota of difference in reliability. But make no mistake... that that LT interior looks like utter dog$hit. In fact, that might be one of the ugliest interiors I have ever seen lol. I would be hard pressed for anyone to find a worse interior in any vehicle lol. We definitely agree on that...
  3. As you stated, most of the time anything that is going to go wrong with the car will pop up while it is under warranty and it is on the dealership to get the kinks out. No doubt. Not suggesting anyone work on a vehicle under warranty, but there are few things that you can't fix yourself while it is out of warranty. I don't drive a Chevy as I fully agree that this gen of Chevy also is ugly AF albeit nowhere close to as bad as the Tundra which is why I bought a GMC. If you prefer the Tundra interior over a GM interior, it's only because you drive an LT. Hell an LT doesn't even have a center console that goes to the dash. Not sure what to tell you other than I would never buy an LT either. I totally agree that a LT's interior is total garbage lol and that I'm not a big fan of the new Chevy frontend, especially the LT lol. Between an SLT or Denali and the Tundra Platinum or TRD Pro it's no comparison. I'd drive a Ram or a Ford before I bought a Tundra.
  4. As someone who exclusively owned Toyotas for the past two decades, this is a myth. What makes Toyota's better than everyone else is their simplicity in their engineering. Everything is easier to fix. But that doesn't mean that it won't break. They do have rock solid tranny's in their mid size platforms i.e. 4runner & Tacoma but beyond that they aren't going to be as maintaince free as everyone likes to think. On my 4runner I blew an alternator, broke all four power door locks, blew up an A/C compressor and obliterated all the OEM suspension i.e. ball joints, cv axels, etc. (albeit I did have a lift on it). I went to the dealership after I totaled my last Toyota looking to buy a full-size platform but the fact is, the Tundra's are ugly AF and aren't built as solid as the 4Runner, LandCruisers & Tacomas and a LandCruiser is pushing six figures. In the end sure those vehicles that I just mentioned are going to be a slight step up in reliability and easier to fix due to the superior engineering, but it's not enough to make a rational person choose a Toyota over a GMC. My dad has had his 96' Chevy for going on 25 years now and with proper maintenance it is still a creampuff. You are going to have to replace the suspension on any vehicle every 75k miles and beyond that all the half tons on the market are built pretty solid although not sure I'd trust the electrical engineering on a Ram. IMO I'd suggest learning how to fix & detail your truck yourself, putting on a truly quality aftermarket suspension after your 3yr/36k mile warranty is null and void and doing as much preventative maintaince as you can within reason and you will get a solid 12-15 years/150-200k miles out of any vehicle built in todays day and age.
  5. I'm right there with you for the most part as your thought process was almost identical to mine albeit I wasn't coming from a 3/4 ton. However I opted for the SLT over the AT4 because as you have highlighted the "features" on the AT4 are trash things that can be done much better aftermarket. Couple thoughts. The 5.3 gets closer to 16/17 city which is actually pretty good and I drive with a lead foot. The suspension and wheels and tires is an easy aftermarket fix and you can easily put a better suspension than either the Raptor or TRX has for a fraction of the cost. 5-7k for coilovers, UCA's, wheels/tires and rear deaver leafs. And lastly, just supercharge your 5.3. That's an easy 250hp. All the TRX or Raptor is is a base truck with a good suspension and supercharger. I'd argue that the Raptors are extremely overpriced as they are too much in demand and I'd never by a Chrysler no matter how they try to brand it, and especially not the first year of an entirely new platform. Sounds like you should drop about 10-15k into your T1 and you'd have something that is superior to a Raptor or TRX in every way. Yeah it's closer to 16-17 but I agree, costs $50 at the pump, tops.
  6. It's the same reason the SLT costs more than an SLE. Styling and bells and whistles. I found a loaded SLT with 1,500 miles on it for 42,500 OTD so I drive a SLT. But I can also call a spade a spade and agree that the Denali is the better looking truck. When I bought my truck you could find a Denali for under 60k but I couldn't justify 17.5k for Amp research steps, HUD, slightly better gauge cluster and a slightly nicer grill so I didn't. In all actuality if the Denali was only 8k more, I would be driving a Denali. The better question is how does an AT4 cost more than a SLT? And how does Chevy even sell half tons this generation? A loaded SLT is the second nicest truck on the road right now, but there is no doubt that the Denali is slightly nicer. And 8k is what $75 a month difference on a car payment? Not that big a difference in the grand scheme of things.
  7. There's a wrap out there that would work. Not saying it's a perfect absolute match but there is something that is 99.8% exact that nobody would take a second glance at. Wrapping is the way to go but unless you do it yourself and buy the wrap in bulk you might just be better off selling the chrome parts and buying color matched ones. Personally, I think the chrome bumpers look great where as the painted ones look cheap. However, the mirror covers and door handles look cheap in chrome...
  8. Pretty sure you can run spacers that are a .5" to 1.5" (but nothing smaller or larger than that) stock or with a level but don't quote me on that.
  9. #Facts That is why you are better off not buying an AT4 or a Trailboss. Period. It's a $hitty spacer lift at the end of the day with some garbage shocks/springs/struts. The only way to lift these trucks right is to put on a true stage 3 aftermarket suspension kit with new UCA's, shocks, springs and struts or coilovers. If you have the cash you should also be replacing the LCA's as well. And these trucks shouldn't be lifted more than 2-3" before the geometry goes to $hit. And the 6" kits like BDS, Zone, etc. are inherently garbage as well as while they account for changes in the geometry, they create weak points all over the suspension hence why you can't off-road them seriously. And a public service announcement for those who still don't get it: ROUGH COUNTRY is absolute dog $hit. Would you build a house on a half ass slab/foundation to save a couple bucks? No, because that would compromise the integrity of the rest of the home. It's crazy to me that people put these bull$h!t parts on their 40-70k trucks, just to save a couple hundred bucks...
  10. Huh? Lomax is the one you have to take completely off. You can just fold the Bakflip up against the window to use the whole bed. Irregardless, the bakflip looks like $hit and the Lomax is really the only option for a hard shell cover. But whatever floats your boat. If you like to look at an aesthetically inferior product have at it. Not seeing anything the Bakflip does that the Lomax does not if you don't mind taking the cover completely off. Again, not sure I'm following your logic other than you didn't even know about the Lomax, bought a Bakflip and now are "happy" you bought a Bakflip... sounds like you'd enjoy the company of the guys in the Crew Cab vs Double Cab thread...
  11. You logic is flawed because the Lomax weighs about 35lbs and can be taken off and tossed in the garage in less than a minute. I guess it could be stolen if you left it partially open but I'm not sure there is a big black market for specialty tonneau covers without tracks. The backflip is clearly the #2 to the Lomax but is ugly AF in comparison. Lomax is going to beat anything aesthetically because you can't see the tracks. The only thing the Backflip has over the Lomax is that it can hold more weight. The Lomax can hold 400+ pounds so unless you are consistently putting 400+ lbs on your tonneau cover, it's a no brainer. And saying the "Bakflip" is the highest selling hard cover tonneau for a reason is true but it's only because it has been around for so long in it's current form. The last version of the Lomax was garbage as the seals in between the panels would tear, but the completely revamped the design for this gen of trucks and it's not even close to which the nicer cover is. Sounds like you should have bought a Lomax...
  12. Yeah I've seen those but they look kind of funny as well IMO. Whole front end looks a lot cleaner when it's symmetrical and nothing is there but would like a cover/cap to fill that spot. They make them for most other vehicles just can't find them for T1's...
  13. Yeah I am really talking more about the drive shaft. I do agree that they are unnecessary on ball joints as you can just as easily stick a needle into the boot and pump them full of grease. Yeah doesn't really make sense not to have them on the u-joint. How the hell are you supposed to grease a drive shaft without zerk fittings? Never had a vehicle that didn't have zerks on the drive shaft... although I have always owned Toyotas
  14. Removed my antenna as I could care less about radio and the truck looks a lot better. Was wondering if there was a cap or cover for these vehicles that covers the opening where the antenna was? Thanks in advance
  15. Does anyone have a diagram or a list of where all the zerks on these trucks are? Driveshaft, swaybar, u-joints, etc. Thanks in advance.
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