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superhighsierra

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    NC
  • Drives
    '19 GMC Sierra SLT DC

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  1. The simple answer is don’t do it. Tried to warn everyone in the other Bilstein threads of the same thing. Bunch of people who didn’t know what they are doing, justifying money they spent to make their vehicle ride worse. If you off-road regularly, their are infinite other better options out there as well. 5100’s aren’t necessarily bad shocks, actually solid for the money, but they will ride like crap set up a couple rings on these trucks with stock coils.
  2. That’s all for you to decide. 3” spacer needs UCA’s. 2” spacer doesn’t. I run a 2” spacer in the front and a 1.5 in the rear with the stock Ranchos. Bilstein makes decent shocks for the money. But I wouldn’t put 5100’s on one of these trucks unless you off-road it all the time. And in that application, there are much better alternatives to 5100’s and new coils. You are essentially taking coils and struts that were made especially for this vehicle and jerry rigging something together that were made for counterintuitive purposes to one another. Not to mention with a 3” spacer it is next to impossible to even get the spacer and strut assembly back in there after you bolt the spacer on top. It’s hard enough with a 2 inch spacer. So who knows what kind of angles the rest of your suspension are at, regardless if you only got a true 2” of lift. How do those CV axles look? Do you Enjoy changing ball joints and replacing them with aftermarket crap? Nobody will notice that inch of difference but you. I got a full 2” with my Motofab $50 spacers. If it were me I’d be ordering a set of 2” spacers, putting the Ranchos back on, selling everything you bought and chalking it up to a learning experience. But I’ve given similar advice on here plenty of times before, and it’s not always well received. If you are hellbent on getting that extra inch or two I’d run something like this: Proper - 4” Lift And even 5k later (not including labor), you better enjoy getting taking the tires off and getting underneath that vehicle and Turing a wrench or she’ll be squeaking in 2 years. Bolting a bunch of aftermarket crap onto one of these things and changing angles is for the birds. At least do it right if you’re gonna do it. There is a reason nobody runs 3” spacers and damn sure nobody runs 3” spacers with the 5100s up a rung. All my opinion.
  3. How much time ya got? Lol If I was you, I’d put the rancho’s back on, put a 2.5” spacer in the front and a 1.5” spacer in the back. 5100’s are off-road shocks/struts. Do you off-road all the time? When they put those at .75, 1.5, or 2.5 it compresses your spring even more. Making it even stiffer than now. SEnd back your POS jerry rigged lift. Either use spacers and keep the rest stock or drop 10k on a 7” McGaughys/valved IKON/etc long travel if you off-road all the time. Not trying to write a manifesto here but for an extra inch or two you are really degrading the ride quality and of lesser concern imo, putting a lot of undue pressure on other OEM components. Good luck. Lotta people with crappy lifts on this forum IWBH.
  4. Super easy to vinyl wrap them for a fraction of the cost. Same thing with door handles and emblems. Looks OEM with the right color wrap. Can’t tell a difference.
  5. That oughta work. I’ve got 275/65/r20 which are a 34.1 inch tire, 11” wide on stock 20’s and they barely rubbed at full lock. Needed to zip tie the liners and now they don’t. 295/55r22 are a 34.8” tire and 11.8” wide. You do the math. They are going to rub. But you should be able to get away with moving/heating the wheel well liners and not have to cut or do a body mount chop. I’ve seen plenty of people running 35’s on a stock suspension who claim they did nothing and they fit. You should be fine but might have to break out the heat gun, modify the liners and/or mudflaps if you don’t want any rubbing. So worth it though as ~35” tires and a small lift on these trucks is the best thing you can aesthetically do to them. Too much lift = too much wheel well unless you put on 37’s which presents a whole host of other things you need to do to properly run them.
  6. Just a 2” in the front is going to make it nose high. Did mine like that, didn’t look right, and wound up putting 1.5” blocks in the rear. Looks great but does have a little rake. If you want it to “look” completely level, I’d try to find 3/4” or 1” blocks for the back to go with the 2” donut in the front. You want the front 1-1.5” higher than the back. My 2 cents.
  7. Duratracs are not loud. Duratracs look better than any other non M/T tire. You do the math.
  8. Anybody successfully removed Onstar without ruining their built in NAV? TIA
  9. 275/60/R20’s here. 2” lift front 1.5” blocks in rear. Don’t rub, aren’t loud and look like a million bucks. Don’t listen to the hall monitor pencil pushers about the noise. Negligible at best over stock and look 100x more aggressive. Now gas mileage on the other hand took a ~2mpg nosedive. But that’s to be expected with any 2-3” lift and bigger tires. If you haven’t already, do it. Best looking non MT tire on the market by a wide margin. Open country’s and KO2 are nice, but there is a pretty big difference in how aggressive the treads are on the Duratracs and a negligible difference in noise & mpg between the two. Enjoy
  10. 5100's are the best struts for the money. But not sure most who want a level want a "Bilstein 5100 ride." They are off-road oriented shocks. Compared to the Ranchos they will give you an much "stiffer" & "planted" ride. If you are looking for a "better ride." You should define what "better" looks like for your vehiicle. The stock Ranchos are absolute garbage but are on the "extremely soft" side of struts. Another EXTREMELY IMPORTANT factor of the equation is what springs are you running. The stock springs are EXTREMELY soft. Aftermarket springs are going to give you that firm, planted feel, with less travel off-road. It all depends on what you are going to do/want. For all intents and purposes the "soft" suspension is what 80% of people want and are ultimately disappointed when they install an "off-road suspension." FWIW if you want to actually upgrade your suspension you should replace: Front Struts Springs Extended End Links Rear Shocks Upper Control Arms
  11. Gonna be somewhere in between. Spring rate is more important than the strut in relation to softness. If you do any serious off-roading that obviously would not be a great setup, but if it's 98% on pavement, and you are just looking for a couple extra inches, you are probably going to be satisfied. But like anything it's a give and take. You are also going to change the geometry of your CV axles, ball joints, tie rods, etc. If you are going to stick them at 2.5 I'd also recommend that you run aftermarket UCA's and extended end links to keep it tight. If it were me, I'd go for something like this: https://www.alligatorperformance.com/cognito-210-p0874-3-inch-performance-ball-joint-leveling-kit-with-fox-ps-coilover-2-0-ifp-for-19-20-silverado-sierra-1500/?gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFPjcTn21I1lrM3lRhd151ogEz_hdf3AzTEnz3F3mnPEEg90pNfvDnBoC8ygQAvD_BwE 5100's are the best budget set of struts & shocks IMO. However, if you are going to spend $500 on shocks and another $300 on labor, you might as well do it right and replace the coils and add UCA's hence why I'd go for something like the Fox lift I posted above. But your line of thinking is correct and you are actually improving your vehicle unlike 99% of the morons on here installing Rough Country components and bolting on straight garbage to get a couple extra inches on their 60k vehicles. 2.5 - 3" is the sweet spot for sure. Whatever you do make sure you get it aligned after you do it. Again to spell it out for future reference: Front Struts Coil Springs UCA's Extended End Links Rear Shocks Optional: +1 leaf spring in the rear if you want to keep the rake Will give you a proper 2.5-3in lift in the front and a proper 1-2in lift in the rear. But like I said whatever you do, get ready to change some CV Axles, Ball Joints, etc.
  12. Depends on what coils you run with them just as much as the struts themselves.
  13. Yeah, I have zero clue why Chevy has gone in the direction they have. They think it looks futuristic or something but the front ends on most of the new Silverado's & Tahoe's are laughably soft and awkward looking. It's like they are trying to pander to the pocket protector wearing grandpa demographic. GMC $hits all over Chevy in regards to the Yukon & Denali half tons this generation. Part of the problem is that they made the half tons a lot larger and roomier and with the short box like everyone on here has, the proportions are so off. Look frickin terrible. Chevy has the most loyal customer base in the history of mankind. People would still buy them irrespective of how they look based on that badge on the front. It is what it is. GMC's are the best looking of all the trucks this go around and it ain't really close. I'd buy a Ford before I bought a Chevy though this gen (actually I would just buy an older vehicle or an SUV) and the RAM's look the worst of that group but sell the best. Again, what people base their decision off of going to be different for everyone. Yukons look fire this go round FWIW... Isn't this a GM truck forum, to talk about GM trucks? Just because somebody interrupted youlls circle jerk doesn't mean he's wrong. I tried telling people a while back how soft and goofy the CCSB looks and got hit with similar reception. What's funny to me is that if you just spent 50K on something, wouldn't you be pretty assured with what you bought before you bought it? Seems like a lot of folks on here had no clue with what they were buying and get uber insecure when anyone has a differing opinion. In life there are plenty of people who are jealous of what others have and are just low life haters. In life there are also plenty of sheep who have never had a thought of their own and just want the flavor of the month. They seem to be tissue paper soft when that flavor is questioned...
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