Another JR

I can do that, but it will involve partially disassembling mine and buying another set of the two pvc fittings to clearly show what I did. I told my neighbor I would build one for him so I need to do that anyway. Give me a week or two to get pictures and explanations done and I’ll quote you and post so you get a notification.

If you were climbing at 60 mph at around 3500 rpm in an L8T with the 6L90, you were in 3rd gear. The truck climbs great in that gear at 60 - quiet and smooth.

Another reason to hold off a while before any truck upgrade is to make sure you really are going to stick with towing that giant trailer. You might decide it’s bigger than you want to deal with for one reason or another.

These are wise words.

Jettech - How often do you expect to tow that big trailer, and over what distances and type of terrain?

I just checked the manual for my 2021. It has a procedure for programming keys to the truck, but says see the dealer for programming new fobs to the truck.

You can pull up the owners manual on line and read the procedure for programming additional fobs. https://www.gmc.com/support/vehicle/manuals-guides If you buy the extra fobs as accessories that are part of the car transaction, ask the dealer to agree to set them up for you for free.

A couple of posters in a multipro tailgate thread in the mods subforum were talking about the Cirrus 620, which is a hard sided short bed length camper. The Four Wheel Campers Hawk is a pop up camper for 80 inch beds. ATC has a similar model.

Good point. I’m in the Pacific Northwest where we don’t have much salting of the roads.

That’s what came on my truck and they work really well as steps, while not hanging excessively low or out. There’s an all black version of those, too. The chrome ones are probably going to be easier to find and less expensive as take-offs because of the current broad preference for all black styling. In ten or even twenty years the chrome ones will still look like new.

I can’t find anything in the manual about it, but my truck sometimes will have the rear park assist disabled on startup and will display a message for a few seconds after start. It only happens when I park in my barn center aisle backed up within a foot of my other truck. The manual does say park assist won’t work when the tailgate is down, and i think it’s for the same reason. I believe that if the sensors sense an object in close proximity at startup, the rear park assist system is disabled. My guess is your hitch is having that effect. Do you see a message briefly after starting the engine when this happens?

The relevant differences, if any, on an unloaded 2500 vs 3500, are going to be tires, suspension lift, and whether you have the antler-style towing mirrors, which add a square foot of frontal area.

In prior years, some of the 2020+ year HD trucks had similar symptoms due to one or more loose main connections between the battery negative and the truck body due to failure to torque them at the factory. This is something you could inspect for yourself.

“If only Hoginedgewood hadn’t caught us, we’d be selling tailgate electronics like hotcakes. Damn that Hoginedgewood!”

I suspect there are two different things going on in what you described. The first thing of having the brakes grab when backing to a trailer sounds like it could be normal operation and release of the hill start assist feature. Were you on a slight slope when backing to the trailer? The second issue where you have apparent grossly uneven brake wear I would just be guessing. Did you or the dealer measure the actual pad wear to see if the indicator is accurate? I don’t know if the “indicator” is just a mileage based estimate in the DIC or some sort of actual sensing system. Have you checked to see if the brakes are dragging by checking for high temperature after a short drive?

If you have snowplow prep then your front springs are stiffer and you have a higher FGAWR. It’s definitely noticeable in the ride. If you don’t actually plow you might want to consider swapping in the standard springs for your truck configuration. I changed my front springs from camper package to standard. The pair of springs cost around $600 from the dealer (cheapest way actually because they are so heavy to ship) and it took me a couple of hours. The hardest part was figuring out how I wanted to jack and support the front of the truck for the first time. I posted a “project report” here about two years ago with photos.

This is the right place to post questions about that, but if you scroll down on this subforum you will see some recent threads about the same general question. Some of your answers might already be there.

I believe the correct answer is “nope.”

I just received a pop up on my iphone telling me I needed to disable my ad blocker (adblock plus). However, at the bottom of the pop up in text color that barely contrasted with the gray background, there was a place to click that said “continue without disabling ad blocker.”

When I had a guard like that on an SUV 20 years ago it was marketed as a “brush guard.”

There are some threads from 2-3 years back where this was discussed. It’s a damping ring that has come loose. I believe it is part of a feature at the rear end of the driveshaft that is intended to damp torsional vibration. I don’t remember if there was a simple diy fix. Are you still covered by the warranty?

1) Power seat adjustment itself is not a big deal to me, but there are big differences in the various seats. Make sure you sit for a while in the ones you plan to get to make sure they are comfortable for you. 2) There is an option for dual batteries with isolator on the gas truck (it’s standard to have dual parallel batteries on the diesel because it’s needed for starting). The standard alternator on the gas truck is 170 amps. There is an option for a 220 amp alternator. There is also an option for dual alternators - one 220 amp and one 170 amp. If you order dual batteries it requires at least the 220 amp upgrade alternator. Dual alternators will have more accessory drag and lower the gas mileage by some small amount. Order a second battery if you think you might want to run a 12 volt accessory with the truck off without depleting your start battery. Order a 220 amp alternator if you think you will want to draw extra currents in excess of 30-40 amps for long periods of time. Order dual alternators of you think you will want to draw extra currents in excess of 60 to 80 amps for long periods of time. Consider getting the high idle switch if you are going to want to draw high currents at idle. The sweet spot for me was dual batteries, high idle switch, and 220 amp alternator. That should be adequate for most RV lithium dc to dc charger setups (up to 60 amps), a compressor, or winch.

I have never seen a replacement cover, but a whole new connector is maybe $20.

A mat provides more grip and reduces load items from shifting, especially my pop up camper. The spray on liner protects the bed from being damaged by load items.

I do a similar operation to tighten hitch ball nuts. Always be ready for something to shift or give way so you avoid a nasty fall into unforgiving metal stuff. Be safe.