Sharpz

Personally if it were me, and this was a truck used to haul a camper, and you are truly upgrading it to get it ready, I would evaluate how long they have been on the truck, and make my choice from there. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace so it would be a no brainer.

It sounds like it might be a bcm issue.

you might want to check your door actuator and spray it up, along with the cables inside. Its best to remove the interior panel to make sure you are spraying where you should be. As for your high beams, I really have no clue, but I would do the door actuator first and see the issue goes away, before replacing the multi function dimmer.

you could always just weld another 10 mm bolt upside down at the place the one broke off and just use a nut to tighten the bracket.

It is probably the actuator out of position. If you have the duel slides for temp, turn the passenger one just slightly lower then the drivers side one, see if that helps. On my trucks its about 1/4 inch.

Turning over a engine by hand isnt a bad thing, but you wont do much good to be honest. Seals will go dry unless they are lubricated. The rear main is the one that normally gets the most damage by an engine not running, and will dry out. That is usually the biggest one, you may want to replace it anyway since you have the tranny out. Just a personal opinion, but if you plan on keeping that 6 to put in another truck or whatever you would be doing, while the engine is out its best to replace gaskets, and the rear main, plus plugs wires, or anything else hard to get to whilst the engine is in the truck.

This sounds like a ground issue to me, but you can try a few things. With the truck in park, and key to the on/run position and doors closed use a screw driver to manually jump your starter. (plenty of you tube videos on this) You need only do it for a few seconds just to see if the starter engages this way. If the starter doesnt do anything, then either you are not getting power to your starter or you have a bad starter solenoid. If you have a multimeter you can also just check to make sure you are getting proper voltage to the starter if so, then there is a good chance your starter is just bad. Now I said this sounds like a ground issue, because I have seen something over and over on cars/trucks. A ground wont be tight on the battery and it will cause corrosion. It doesnt get a good connection as it should and it just builds up making the connection weak and eventually the battery just never gets a full charge so we replace that battery, and most times dont even think to look at the terminal connection, much less spend the time to clean it. If you are guilty of this make sure you take both terminals back off and clean them really good, and also make sure your battery has a full charge.

you really need to provide more information as to what is going on bud. Like do you have dash lights, in the cab, does the truck crank and just not start etc. Not that this matters much but is your truck a 2007 classic or the new body style? What symptoms caused you to diagnose the starting problem as your battery the first time? (ie did one day you go to start it and it was dead)

no. I know many people who have this issue and are pushing near 300k. If you keep up with your truck, and keep an eye on things like Oil pressure, temp etc you should also get many miles out of your motor.

because it is an electrical issue, I doubt anyone can tell you what wires need to go where on your radio/xm. I am pretty sure the interface of the stock radios are designed to allow for the chimes, dings etc. If the person who installed the first aftermarket radio didnt get the interface harness to allow for that, it might not work 100 percent the same as your factory radio would have. I know when I put a full double din in my 99 (new body style) I only needed to get adapters for the radio to work as my factory radio did, but when I installed the same radio type on my 2004 gmc it did not work as the factory one did, with factory plugs. I did research and found out that I could get a interface harness that was really expensive, but for the few features that I was lacking, I opted not to. I did have to tap into the aux power outlet for constant power though in addition to the factory plugs.

It seems it is pretty common

yeah I misread his issue, as starting fine, but after 3 hours of driving impossible to start.

I would look to your cat/s. After heating up, loss of power, hard to start, excessive fuel use are all symptoms or can be of a bad cat. It might explain why another mech didnt pick up the issue. They just didnt run it long enough for them to get heated up enough. Sorry disregard my suggestion. I misread you symptoms as having trouble starting after getting hot, not at cold starts. Having read your post again, I would ask if this starting issue happened before you started replacing items, or if they started after. I think the oddest part reading your issues is that no codes are banking. Surely running too rich or too lean would register as an issue, and throw up a service engine light. The fact that this is a fuel to burn issue (timing) seems to point to a bad sensor or ECM issue.

sounds like a pinched wire, or untightened ground wire. When you say new motor, do you mean out of the factory/crate motor, or do you mean a new to the truck motor, say out of another truck?

Take off the interior panel and spray the lock mechanism with some PB or WD. You can also try to spray directly from the side latch, but it will be less messy if you can see what you are doing. Be sure to spray the cable connections as well.

Both your trucks are getting age on them, so I wouldnt put 100 percent confidence in those gauges. A voltage meter will tell you the true story.

you could jack stand/block your truck up, and keep the tires in the garage, if that isnt an option, contractor bags over them and taped will keep the sun from messing with them too bad. Jack it up once a month and rotate 90 degrees, and they will be fine. Fuel stabilizer is about all you can do for the fuel, hopefully you use no ethanol. Something to do, if possible, is make good labels for what came from where and what order, filming your friend take the dash out, would be helpful putting it back together. It isnt horrible to be honest, but time consuming. There are plenty of videos out there on how to remove the dash, and what you need to do that. Just make sure y'all are thorough, Make this a one time deal. Good luck, and please be sure to post the updates, and questions, there are plenty of people that can help answer your questions.

no there sure isnt. Here is the problem and why you have no choice but to strip the dash to inspect all of your wires. You don't know what wires were affected and which ones were not. Just because you replace one or two doesnt mean there isnt 20 more that are damaged. Sometimes one breeds the other, and wires can burn long amounts of coating/insulation, and can get so hot they can melt other wires too. You are very lucky, that 1) your truck didnt catch fire, and 2) that it didnt fry major electrical components of your truck. Disconnect the battery as I said, Park this one, and remove the dash and probably the duct system. It isnt easy by any means, but that is where you are at. It doesnt cost you any money to remove the dash but will be extremely costly every time you start that pig up, and melt more wires, fry your brain, bcm, ecm, etc. Removing the dash will allow you to visually inspect all of your harness wires, and who knows, maybe you can just splice in a few tape them up and be done, but at this point probably not. Its hard to image what one hole drilled in the wrong spot can do, but here you are. Not to kick you why you are down either, but cutting short cuts or at least trying to is what got you here in the first, place, dont cut corners with this. Make sure you fix it right, or you might be plagued with problems down the road.

yeah that is a huge issue then. You need to completely remove all of the dash, and probably the duct system to access all of these wires to remove and feed in the harness's that you are speaking about. A heads up, if you were to just change the heater core and no wires, I believe the book says 8 hrs, so don't expect this to be a few hour project. Again what I would suggest is getting the wires from a pull a part, but first remove the dash, and anything else preventing you from seeing the wires completely before just replacing blindly. Make sure you disconnect your battery too, leaving it hooked can cause a fire, or even more damage even if the truck isnt running.

you can search here, but if you are looking for the complete wiring harness for all of your dash, that is a lot of wires, you might try a pull a part place. Also you can search here for what you are looking for specificly. I didnt know your details so just chose one. https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/cars/Chevrolet/2012/Silverado--CREW-CAB-LTZ/Wiring-Harness/Silverado--CREW-CAB-LTZ-parts.html

Man I am so glad I gave up on the idea of owning a 2007 (new style) and above. I owned a 2010 2500, and had so many problems I almost ditched GM all together, but I had a 99 (new style) at the time, and a 95 and never had one major problem and put over 500k on both of them, and sold the 95 for 2 k over the resale value. Now I have a 99 (new style) and a 2004 and other then normal ware items I really havent had problems. 300 k on 04, and 220k on 99. I understand your reason for keeping the truck you have currently but a lemon is a lemon. It was quoted that the very definition of insanity is doing the same thing repeatedly and expecting a different result. You sir have been on that crazy loop and think each time what else can go wrong lol. I would sell it for what you can, or at least attempt it, and go to the classic 2007. I bet you have far better results.

my 2004 sierra does the same thing, until I hit the unlock button a few times, then the passenger side unlocks. Its a security feature I think, and dont think its fixable to do what you want. Its an old truck Id suggest just hitting the unlock button a few times and be done with it. The hardest thing I had to deal with is there not being a key option for the passenger door, that was pretty annoying, but I love my trucks and I am sure so will your son/s.

First just so you know, there is a transition in the year 1999. You have the classic, and the new body style. What engine you have can determine what information you are looking for, but aside from that, you should never assume that you have a stock truck. Second I dont know how you would not know you have a radiator cap or not, but if you dont see one on top of your radiator the chances are you have an overflow/fill tank. located on the passengers side of your truck. There is a fill cold/hot line.

I live in the south west and get virtually no snow or ice, but when something needs changed it needs changed. You can google search easy enough the advantages of what you are looking for. What it would come down to me is what I am willing to do for my truck. If money or time isnt an issue, why not? I liken the type of question to do I run stock lift or put in a 2 ". It really is about preference and in most cases the performance benefits are not so great as to justify the means, but sometimes looks better.