MikeBMW

I had tow mirrors installed by the dealer. They replaced the door harness (still have the original if anyone needs it). Later, I bought power fold tow mirrors from boost auto, no need for a harness but I did have to buy the folding switch setup for the door panel.

For what it's worth, Ive never experienced a bad HMI module. I've installed many of these as I upgraded to a navigation HMI. I still have two sitting on the shelf but they would have to programmed to your VIN which is what WAMS does. If you find that to be the issue, I can send you one but, again, @GTPprix would need to program it.

Cool! Pics?

I installed the Pedal Commander - no subscription required - and it worked great for a while, adjustable performance on throttle response from less to more. Also, I can control it via Bluetooth with my phone with the free app. One day, however, I got an error code thrown and went in to limp mode. I disconnected it, cleared the code and all was well. I left it in the truck and I'll try it out again soon to see if the issue repeats. Otherwise it did work well and it might have been my fault as some adjustments should be done with the caveat "DO NOT change modes while your foot is on the gas pedal" and I think I did one, or a few, adjustments on the fly. O_o *I do see they now have a subscription based ant-theft option*

OK, I did a bit of research, LKA came out in highly optioned trucks like an LTZ or a High Country in 2016. "It was introduced as part of the Enhanced Driver Alert Package, which was offered on high-trim models (such as the LTZ and High Country) starting in late 2015 for the 2016 model year production." Owning an LT1, I was never aware of this. One never knows what new things we can discover about these K2s.

Quite frankly, I had no idea a 2017 Silverado 1500 had lane keep assist. The first time I saw it it was when I rented a 2020 Silverado (before I bought mine) to pick up BMW parts.

I used the Holley F5 Flashpaq to tune mine out of AFM without an OBD dongle since I usually use it for the Autosync from BTDiesel which also allows AFM disable without being plugged in but does much more. The F5 Flashpaq let me tune for 91+ octane for a bit of a horsepower boost, though. it also has transmission shift point options but I'm not versed enough to make advantage of that option. Anyway, an OBD dongle isn't necessary with these options to retain AFM disable.

Is your battery good and pushing out proper voltage? Other than that, I hope you can get a reasonable solution.

I believe I bought them from Ready Lift but it's been awhile . For more information about a knuckle lift, here is an earlier post from here:

I went with MotoFab Ucas: Motofab 3" front and 2" rear lift with 35x12.5x18 BFG KO2s but still had to put on 1/2 inch spacers. I doubt you can get around this without a knuckle extension.

The alternator is checked by the BCM (maybe ECM?) and will change depending on the battery level. It's not unusual to see a variation from 12 volts to 14 volts. If you had a battery change, assure the charging ring is still in place.

When I start my truck on a warm day, the FANS turn on at high speed - I'm guessing you're meaning the radiator FANS? After a bit of driving, they turn off until they're needed. Generally, the FANS are there to cool the radiator until the coolant flow gets going. Just give the FANS a bit of time and let the ECM or BCM learn the process. Disconnecting the battery just resets the learning process.

Yep, a low battery can mess up all kinds of things. Once you get a full charge and clear all of the codes, all should be good. Been there and done that as I'm on my third battery - when the other ones discharged to a low voltage, I'd always have to clear the codes to get everything back to normal. You may have some legacy codes which would be beneficial to clear.

Sadly, it does hear like lifter(s) meeting the push rods on a failed lifter. I hope it's not that.

Just a guess, do you have a windshield tint? Also, did you inadvertently cover the dash sensor for a bit of time?

2012? You might be in the wrong forum? https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/3-1999-2013-silverado-1500-sierra-1500/

No cats? I have no idea. I just went with Borla cat back Touring and it's age appropriate for me. I could have gone with the Attack Borla cat backs but my neighbors might be a tad irritated. Still, long tube headers are cool and I loved them on my 1978 Scottsdale when I was in my 20s. Back then, I just installed a set of stock mufflers - but that was a different time, I guess.

Nice rig and thanks for the info, well done!

Matches with my experience. I went to a Mechman 250 Amp alternator but I couldn't save the last battery I had - I only drive about 20 miles a week unless I take a drive to see family. So far, the new AGM is working great! Long ago video about the alternator (I've since moved the under hood light to a switch on the control panel since the under hood switch rusted out terribly)

You might want to reach out to @pgamboa also known as The Harness Doctor . I've bought a number of his creations - awesome guy! He has a YouTube video about the swap:

It appears I'm not alone in this, just new to me ... maybe my inadvertent fix, above, can help others?

Oddly, I found a post, somewhere, just recently (I don't recall the post) but it mentioned holding down the trip odometer reset button and, then, turning on the key to reset the gauge. Clearly, this truck has no trip odometer button. So, I thought hmmm, a longshot, but lemme check it out. So, key on, in auxiliary mode, I just went to the trip odometer on the digital screen, zeroed it out, held down the button, turned off the key, still pressing the initial steering wheel button, turned it back on (auxiliary mode) and the fuel gauge came back to normal. I'm dumbfounded - any ideas?

I, recently, filled the tank on my truck and it only went to 3/4. I figured it was an anomaly so I went out the next day and tried to top it off - I managed to get another gallon and a half in it. Still shows 3/4 on the gauge. First time I've seen this. Either my fuel sender is going bad or, maybe, I can check with my Autel MaxiSys. I'm not a mechanic but I play one in my backyard and I haven't stayed at a Holiday Inn express lately so ... Can anyone with scanner skills guide me on how I can check for a bad fuel sender issue or do a re-calibration? Y'all are awesome and I appreciate this place more than I can say. So, what do y'all think?

Every time I take my truck in for a transmission fluid replacement, they drop the pan and replace the filter. Have I been doing it wrong?

Taking it to another repair shop for a second opinion would be my endeavor.