MikeBMW

I prefer the boostauto fob. My first one lasted four years before I noticed just a bit of wear on the buttons, probably not enough to replace it, but, heck, I really like to have items as perfect as I can get them: https://boostautoparts.com/products/2020-fob-1418?options=option1=With Remote Start - [Replaces FCC ID M3N-32337100]&year=2017&make=Chevy&model=Silverado 1500

I found the issue. I tend to reach for the options not provided originally on my truck. I 've bought a few replacement HMIs wanting to add navigation to my stock I05 radio, like the I06. Turns out, the latest HMI I bought (from WAMS, of course) wasn't configured in the BTDiesel system for my truck. Once I contacted BTDiesel, they fixed it almost immediately. From BTDiesel support: "Ok it looks like the issue stems from the fact that you’ve swapped the HMI module multiple times in your truck. So the server/AutoSync didn’t know which module to build tunes for. It should be fixed now…" Afterward, no issues.

It just works and I have access to the stock radio screen for my BTDiesel Autosync updates as well as just running the nav system for the fun of it (I use Apple CarPlay for maps, normally). I've had it since April of 2023 and I'm hesitant to try any other upgrade without assurance I can bring up the stock radio.

Check your driver side front trim screws at the knee area bolster cover and the screws which hold the dash cluster into the dash. These are known to vibrate loose over time and make a bit of noise.

Difficult to diagnose unless you indicate the brand of aftermarket tail lights you installed. Sometimes, it's just a scan and removal of trouble codes. No guarantees, however.

I've tried four different "big screen" replacements. 1 was a Phoenix, two were different versions of the Linkswell (great customer support) Finally settled on the AutecPro and customer service helped me on a software upgrade a few months ago. Connects quickly to wireless Apple Car Play and I still have all of the functionality of my stock radio.

I'm wondering the same - keep getting a 500 error on download of new tune ...

See here https://www.wheel-size.com/size/chevrolet/silverado-1500/2017/ I went with replacement black wheels from Chevy - 18" same offset as stock, but they weren't cheap (probably less expensive than other options, perhaps, though)

I have the GatorTrax Electric Retractable Tonneau Cover that was getting a bit anemic on retracting and closing. Right after I lubricated the rails a bit with some quick drying silicone spray, it stopped working. I checked it was getting voltage to the connector from the battery. I queued up a replacement to buy but prior to pulling the trigger I thought "Let me check the remote control battery." Sure enough, after two years, the battery was dead and wouldn't trigger the opening and closing and, also, the bed light. For $6 a pack of LiCB A23 23A 12V Alkaline Battery (5-Pack) fixed what I thought was a disaster. I highly recommend this electric bed cover! 2 years ago:

Or, just live in inland Florida, Texas, California, Colorado, Kansas, etc... I realize this isn't a viable solution for many so your solutions are great ways to prevent rust in areas where it's truly an issue. Thanks!

Get an AutoSync from BTDiesel, you can enable all lights on when unlocking. Rear reverse light, cargo light, etc... Also, all rear lights will come on when reversing. Backup light, bed light (cargo) and lights on tow mirrors. Unfortunately, my current mod downloads are showing a 500 error meaning their servers are in a bit of a tizzy, or something.

Upgraded my iO5 to an iO6 with nav from WAMS with a new HMI. Simple plug and play but I did have to steal a GPS antenna from the stereo I'll be putting into my BMW later on. Works great and I now have road speed limits showing in my cluster (only for "known" roads, though)

Currently, I'm using @pgamboa's Aux Switch Pre-Terminated Leads to turn on under dash lights and rear seat lights as well as my dash cam, radar detector and under hood light. I would love to find a way to have the under seat and under dash lights turn on when I open the door or manually put the interior lights on.

Yes. If you're only doing a 1.5" or, maybe, a 2" lift for the front, the stock UCAs will work. When I went to the 3" front lift, my installer said he wouldn't do it unless I had appropriate UCAs for the lift and added stressors. If you're doing a true lift over 3-4", the install will, more than likely, come with a knuckle lift to raise the UCA ball joint connection location as well as appropriate UCAs for the added stressors to the suspension in addition to a diff lowering setup to compensate for the angle of the front front shaft.

Depending on the bulbs, incandescents can burn out slowly giving this indication

I brought my car to the dealer and I wanted the front brakes done because of some wobbling. They called me back and said fronts are fine but the rears needed attention. Sometimes it's not what you think it is.

Symptoms like this can almost always be traced to a bad ground issue. Get a manual and check all of your grounding points.

I use Holley's Superchips FalshPaq f5 for tuning. It ain't cheap but you can roll you own tune, even with the trans. I haven't touched any of that because I'm not versed in the intricacies. https://www.holley.com/products/tuners_and_programmers/handheld_tuners/superchips_f5_flashpaq/

I have a 5.5" lift on mine. Rear is about 1.5" higher than the front (I despise a squat.) 3" front level (MotoFab), 1" front Bilstein shock lift, rear is a 3" block lift (Zone) and a 1.5" spring leaf insert (Zone) for towing. Front control arms for a 3"-4" lift from MotoFab (zerts fittings are a plus). Then a 1.5" body lift (Zone). The Bilstein shocks were the most expensive part of the install.

Hi. I would think if you're not doing this everyday, should be no problem?

Usual remedy. Have a scan done and erase the BCM codes.

If you had your rocker panels repaired properly, they should still retain the four mounts from the factory. I have Amp Power steps on now but this is what I had prior.

MC-10207911-9999.pdf

Get all of your codes cleared from a good scanner and check back in with us what was found. Been there, done that.

I had a "Service Stabilitrac" on the DIC two weeks ago. I scanned with my Autel MaxiSys and no codes related to it showed. So, I just cleared all codes and I haven't seen it since. Not sure why it showed up and I don't know which code I cleared might be related. Even so, pretty sure it has to do with dying batteries in the tire pressure sensors as this is a continuing code. It only occasionally affects the TPMS system, I clear it, and it's gone for a month. I'm going to have them replaced soon, I guess.