Robby James

Look in the for sale section

So, perhaps if we all spent 50-60k on our trucks then we should ONLY buy the most expensive tires, wiper blades fuzzy dice and US made replacement windshields as well. Point being if it made any real difference on a daily basis then perhaps everyone would buy premium or 87 octane. The 6-8 bucks per tank most likely won't kill anyone on here, but it is stated by the manufacturer that you CAN use 87 without any issues so why not let the owners of each truck decide what they want to use? The op's question I believe was could you use 87 or not, not everyones' opinion on what an idiot or cheap sob they are for choosing one product over the other. Just my thoughts as I can burn either and it doesn't matter much to me, I have felt no whopping performance difference running one over the other however I am not racing light to light or doing LSR races at Bonneville either. Perhaps we should all purchase a horse and execute it so we can take turns beating it at this point.?

I bought the 6.2 for the performance when I WANT or NEED it and for the resale value as I never keep my trucks very long anyway. The fuel recommendation is just that, I do use premium most of the time but I don't need to drive like I am in a NASCAR race or pulling 10k# up a mountain pass daily either.

A recommendation is NOT a requirement. It will not damage the engine to run 87 as you stated the engineering department designed it, knock sensors and all.

Check for any kinked lines as I believe there is a Service bulletin for that. Could be a contributing factor.

I have done mileage checks with both and actually have gotten better gas mileage EVERY time with 87 over 92 which is the highest available in Wa state. However if I plan to race around or tow anything I run 92 so I don't suffer pre-ignition and possible engine damage. No idea why the mileage comes out that way. Thanks to Joe I will run more 87 than I had planned for awhile.

Not arguing the crap ride, just saying these trucks are astronomically priced and for that $$ it should ride exceptionally well.

Wow $1100 for shocks, I must be getting out of touch with the value of the $ but 60K for a truck I should not have to do ****** to it! IMO

$380 shipped in the lower 48. Perfect and in the original packaging.

Smoking deal on those, wish I was closer

Gents, I have a very lightly used Pulsar LT that I am selling for $375 shipped in the Continental US. As new in box you will need a couple inches of velcro stripping and a couple zip ties to install. It works perfectly and I am happy with it but I have bought another ECM and am having it tuned by HP Tuners for a bunch of mods to the truck. Paypal only please. If you need pics etc I can text em or email them but it looks like every one elses and is in the box. I did an install on youtube of it.

The Pulsar LT will disable DFM as well as a host of other options. One for sale in classified section shortly.

I put 2019 Denali 22's on my 2020 RST that came with 20's no rub no issue.

I wonder percentage wise what this looks like? 5.3 vs 6.2 etc blah blah is it REALLY that many or are they all congregating here? Thus far no issue with mine although I think mine was one of the "high idle for a few hours before selling" ones as my hour meter showed hrs and I had like 2 miles on it when I bought it.

Kyle this is the EXACT method I used with great success 5 times now, once (first time) on my own one owner babied since new 2013 5.3 Silverado. I watched quite a few videos on the subject and even though this guys shop was a bit messy and he seemed unorthodox he really DOES know what he is doing and gives the best detailed tutorial that I could find on the subject. I did buy his tool and used the AFM delete tuner that he recommended. He has a lot of good info on his channel. No affiliation etc, it just really helped me. Cheers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pP7I5tbXsfw

I really like the "flying out an engineer" part..........did you buy the space shuttle? The dumbasses what is an engineer going to do? Should be simple enough to diagnose and take it from there. Sorry for your troubles.

Look at these https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=2021+gmc+sierra+elevation+grill+removal

I fixed mine in my driveway same cylinder it was easy there is even a tutorial I could link you too. AFM delete in the ECM after fixing the dead lifter which went very quick as well. New valve cover and intake gasket and good to go, I would never consider getting rid if it in todays market especially with a mechanical issue that will kill the value of it. Stop driving and order a torque wrench and a few parts you will be delighted that you did. There may be a person in your area that specializes in this quick and easy fix I have done a few myself after my own was soooo easy and gratifying. LMK I can link you up or LMK where you are at geographically. Cheers

No tune needed.

Go to autozone and borrow their scanner to see what the code is, many times it is very simple and 1000 things can cause it to turn on. Get the code come back on here and tell us what it is. Don't start throwing parts at it.

https://www.americantrucks.com/afe-silverado1500-apollo-gt-series-muffler-delete-pipe-49c44114nm.html A link to the AFE muffler delete pipe, another major brand has one but it is more$$$ No affiliation etc, look it up on youtube lonestar hawaiian I believe did the swap.

Its called reading the flow of traffic and those guys DO indeed where very large shoes and red bulbous noses.

I guess I am just not getting it...................if you live where people drive at WIDE OPEN THROTTLE all the time then kudos to you as it sounds like a fun place. Enjoy the fast track my friend.

Check the spark at the coil pack for #7 also check all coil packs plugged in all the way and no wires are touching the new headers etc. The miss needs to be diagnosed as to if it is electrical or mechanical. I myself would not drive it 40 miles if it is mechanical as if it is a lifter failure that could cause camshaft damage. Check the coil spark and let us know. This is the reason I don't let anyone touch my cars or trucks most mechanics are idiots with a monkey wrench and have no idea what a torque wrench even is. You can also use a auto stethoscope for like 10 bucks to listen to the valve cover and determine a lifter collapse etc. If it is mechanical you also will easily be able to tell what side it is on with hood open and listening to it unless you have really loud exhaust.

I must FULLY disagree that "MOST" seem to drive with constant wot....lol When I ever get the opportunity for wot with my 6.2 it is for a few seconds only unless I am out in the country and then it is for maybe a few extra seconds and then you are into triple digits. My bet is 95% will never see an issue in the time they own their trucks, I did a AFM delete and lifter fix on my gorgeous one owner babied since birth 2013 in my driveway on a sunny afternoon. Had to wait for ECU to be returned to me but whole thing was a cakewalk anyway.