GETGONE

Screw any dealer marking vehicles up! They're just trying to rip you off and that's just the beginning of your ownership. Imagine how shitty they will be when it comes to service/warranty work! Go find another dealer with inventory or with an open allocation and order one. I don't think you can order the 22 Limiteds anymore. They're finishing up whatever they have on the books and switching to the refresh trucks.

Fleece Performance also makes a part to do this. I think it's better designed than the Boost part. https://www.fleeceperformance.com/electronics/all-lights-on/all-lights-on.html

Yeah, too much draw will cause them to do that. I ran into that on mine. I added small cube lights on my trailer hitch. I have the multiflex tailgate and it was fine with the stock lights but I upgraded them to brighter ones with more LEDs and it caused the same 2 blink then nothing result. I had to wire up a relay and tap the 12V+ from the trailer wiring harness to get power from. I put diodes on the reverse light trigger and the cargo light trigger into the relay so current can't back flow into the circuits.

The Blaster Corrosion Stop doesn't have any effect on the factory coating on the frame since it's a waxy substance anyways. There were a couple thin spots or where I had grabbed the frame and it came off when I was installing my running boards. I just covered the spots with the Blaster and have had no issues so far.

When I got my truck in May that stuff was being tested and not out for retail sale. Someone on YouTube had a test quart or so of it but didn't have any information as to when it would be available at retailers. It's hard enough finding anything besides FluidFilm around here.

I didn't get time to do the underneath fully, but I did behind the rear wheel wells when I installed the Husky Liner plastic liners and sprayed before and after I put the step boards on. I used Blaster Corrosion Stop. It's half the price of Fluid Film or others. I did some research of some people testing it on YouTube and it had as good or better results as the more expensive brands. It's safe for plastics/rubber and electronics.

It'll cost you about $3500 to add it if your truck didn't come with it. I wanted a Custom Trail Boss specifically with the Multi Flex tailgate. The dealer could find all kinds of Custom Trail Boss' but none with this option. They priced out what it would take to add and they came up with the $3500 estimate. It requires a whole new rear bed wiring harness as well as BCM programming. They had an open allocation to order a truck so I was able to order what I wanted. The Multi Flex tailgate was a $445 option when I built the truck. It was a mid-year 2021 introduction so it wasn't an option on the early trucks.

Nobody has mentioned the PCV air intake on the L87 on the passenger side valve cover that connects directly to the intake tube.

Most likely not since the switch runs through the BCM as a trigger signal to enable the relay to turn the lights on. If you don't have the option, the output won't work. I bought the GM accessory fog lights for my Custom Trail Boss. I have it all installed and it comes with a new headlight switch with the fog light switch. It won't work until I have the dealer enable the option in the BCM. I haven't had time to get to the dealer to have them enabled.

So all that oil just magically ended up in the catch can when you say no oil gets out of the PCV? You realize there is NO valve on the valve cover. It is a baffled hole.

You are 100% WRONG. I put a JLT catch can on my truck(6.2L) when I got home from the dealer with 30 miles on it. I changed the oil at 1000 miles because I like to do a short first oil change to get the break in junk out of it. I had at least 2 ounces of oil in the catch can. The direct injection motors are worse than traditional fuel injection motors because there is no fuel in the intake tract to help wash the oil back into the cylinder.

How about something for the Silverado Work Truck and Custom trims?

275/60/20 is 33" 305/55/20 is 33.21" Overall Diameter is nearly the same, so no issues there. The extra width is where it gets iffy with clearance and may require a lift and/or removal of the mudflap brackets.

At least it's not the forced rat-trap nooses they implemented in the late 80's-early 90's cars! My first wife had an Escort with those damn things and I wanted to cut them out and put regular seat belts in it. A few months after we got married it was traded for a 94 Firebird.

I actually ran across a kit that mounts in the rear underside corners of the bed on ebay. It was supposed to be a complete bolt on install. It was stupid expensive though.

It depends what you want and if GM allows that configuration. I was told to go through the build and price tool on Chevy's website and that's what they ordered from. I wanted the Safety Confidence package that I had seen on other built trucks but it wasn't an option on the configuration tool. The dealer was able to find it and add it to my order. The other issue is are you wanting a 22 Limited or a 22 refresh? I'm not sure how long the 22 Limiteds are going to be produced since the refreshed trucks are supposed to start production in the spring of 22.

I was looking for a truck in March of this year and the dealer was trying to find one with the options I wanted and they took a $500 deposit. After over 3 weeks of trying to locate one, I was told they had an open order allocation and I could order what I wanted. I could wait for what I ordered or if they found something at another dealer I could take that. If they couldn't find anything and Chevy couldn't build the truck they would refund my money. They placed the order and it was on the dealer's lot in 5 weeks!

DT Moto I found them on Ebay and saved them to my watch list but have been out of stock since. They're not listed on their web page either.

Actually found the truck in Method's gallery and a link to their Instagram page https://www.instagram.com/p/CL7yGQvh2c-/ https://www.methodracewheels.com/pages/chevrolet-gallery

I would get some tinted or colored film and do the whole headlight. I bought some smoked vinyl for the side markers but after looking at the lights and the pieces I got, it's going to look like crap only partially covered. I found some cool bluish/purple tint film I'm probably going to try in the spring. I found some awesome dual projector replacement lights for the factory halogens but they have been out of stock since I got my truck in May. I keep hoping they'll come back in stock as that would be a HUGE improvement and not require a grill replacement, which I really like the Custom grill.

I didn't hit their website last night and was going to look at their wheels tonight. I kind of figured they might be Methods.

Possibly Black Rhino Apache https://www.blackrhinowheels.com/off-road-wheels-rims-apache.php Don't think they're these, but similar style: Black Rhino Kelso https://www.blackrhinowheels.com/off-road-wheels-rims-kelso.php

What are we talking about again???? Potentially Fuel Ammo D700 http://www.fueloffroad.com/wheel/13570/fuel-1-piece-wheels-ammo-d700/?finishID=12&lugs=5

Looks like the post got cut off on what to hook where. I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed. For those not wanting to read it all: Waterproof relay(as shown above) 30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit 85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground 86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit 87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights 87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire