GETGONE

You have the cargo lights that are on the back of the cab as part of the 3rd brake light correct? If so they should be plug and play.

My truck came with the lights but they just pop in place of the plastic plugs and then plug into the tail light harness. There should be an empty connector there already. Remove a tail light and pull it out and you should see it there.

None of them are a factory installed. They are a dealer installed option.

Quick way to find out would be to take a wire and back feed that pin spot and touch it to ground under the dash and see if the lights come on.

I'd be interested to know if this is the same pin on the T1 trucks. That's the biggest miss I've found in my truck so far. No way to turn on the lights from the back of the truck.

They've changed and it's a lot easier now to cancel. You can finally transfer subscriptions to another radio online now. I had it in my Avalanche and when I got my Silverado I transferred what was left of my Avalanche to it. I pay $21.84 a month for the mostly music plan. You don't get the sports or talk channels which is fine with me. I don't listen to any of those anyways. I want XM for the music.

Is it a 6" lift? If so it should have had new upper control arms as part of the lift kit. Even doing a leveling kit on a Trail Boss should have new upper control arms to deal with the changed geometry. I have Rough Country forged aluminum arms in my barn waiting to go on when I level it in the spring.

By the sounds of it this is what happened when I added brighter lights to the multi flex tailgate light kit. The lights blinked 3 times then went off. It was drawing too much current and this was how it shut the lights off. I had to add a relay and draw power from the trailer wiring harness and use the signal from the lights to trigger them. It's odd others have been able to make it work though. I would think the high beams from the custom would draw more current than the LED's of the DRL's though.

Wish this worked on my 21. As soon as you press the button it releases the latches. Dealer would probably want a fortune to program it even if it was possible on a 21.

Throwing my write-up from another thread here to help others: I added the GM light kit for my multi-flex tailgate as well as swapped the lights to brighter aftermarket LED units. I added some 2"x2" LED cubes I had purchased for my Avalanche but never used. The current draw tripped the BCM and they would blink 3 times then go off. I also hooked the cube lights up to the reverse signal so they come on in reverse and at night when the approach lights turn on when you unlock the truck or lock it and leave. I had added a Curt 5th wheel wiring harness expecting I could get my signals from there for what I was originally wanting to do. I found on here that only the 12V+ wire has signal at all times. I pulled the tail light and looked at the wiring. I have LED bed lights in the corners from factory. I tapped that wire on the passenger side(or could use drivers side) and ran that to the 86 wire on a waterproof relay. I added a diode to it so current can't back feed to the bed light circuit. I also tapped the reverse light on the same side, added another diode here so current can't back feed the circuit and added it to the 86 wire. There is a harness that plugs in under the bed and connects to the tail lights. I purchased a new harness to keep as a spare in case I ever had electrical issues that required me to take it to the dealer. I can unplug everything I added and return it to stock. 30 wire I connected to the 12V of the Curt 5th wheel harness I added. This plugs in via T to the factory trailer plug. I have the actual 7 wire plug running into the blank in the passenger bed side where the 120V outlet would be if I had that option. 85 wire can be tapped into the trailer harness ground wire or find a suitable ground wire elsewhere on the chassis or trail light harness. 87 connects to your additional lights. I didn't add a fuse to mine since I'm using the 12V+ from the trailer harness and it is already fused. 87a is NOT used and can be removed or taped off. I heat shrunk/electrical taped up connections and then zip tied the relay to the Curt 5th wheel harness along the tail panel of the bed. For those not wanting to read it all: Waterproof relay(as shown above) 30 wire - 12V+ from trailer wire circuit 85 wire - 12V- ground to trailer wire ground, taillight ground, or other suitable chassis ground 86 wire - 12V+ input from LED bed lights and/or reverse lights, using a diode on each input wire to prevent back feeding trigger circuit 87 wire - 12V+ to your additional lights 87a wire - NOT used and can be removed from relay harness or taped off. Not all relays have this pin/wire

It is a "smart" alternator as it will turn itself off and on as needed based on the electrical draw of the vehicle. I believe 2014 was the first year this was used in the Silverados.

Not going to work. The whole HVAC unit is different for the dual zone and electronic controls. The BCM's are vehicle specific and can't be reused on another vehicle. The only reasonable option is to trade it for one with the equipment you really want. Otherwise you're going to create a hack job nightmare that no one will want to buy if you ever decide to sell it and the options don't match how it was built.

There is actually a Silverado SSV for the 19+ model years. I don't think it has any special skid plates though from the info I've looked at from the ordering guide I found.

Totally different engines. 2011 Camaro 6.2 is an LS based motor. 6.2 in the 19+ Silverados are LT based motors.

I'm still trying to figure out why some 6.2's have 2 flappers and some have 1. My 21 Custom Trail Boss 6.2 only had 1. I chopped it off along with the muffler on the 3rd day I owned it and put the Magnaflow muffler delete pipe on. I love the sound.

I asked today. Dealer wants $160 plus my truck for a half day to PROGRAM the lights WITH the activation code. I paid $235 for the GM accessory lights only to find out it's going to cost me more than half again to have them activated! I should have went with the cheap kit and just an on off switch. Going to tap the parking light signal to have them come on with my Fleece Performance High 6 module. As for the OP. There is a rubber tube on the firewall on the passenger side that you have to cut to feed the wire through to the inside. This is what the GM Accessories kit has you do to run the trigger wire from the BCM harness to the fuse block under hood. I believe there is a similar tube on the driver's side, but I haven't looked for it.

There's a tilt switch in the inner gate that if it is open, it won't allow the whole gate to come down in case there is something it could contact and damage the tailgate. There's two buttons on the gate handle for the Multi Flex, one for the whole gate and one for the inner gate. You have to drop the main gate first then the inner gate if you want to use it as a step. I'm not sure the tilt switch is the only thing that makes the inner gate function or not. My dealer made it sound like there's a whole different rear wiring harness as well as BCM programming for it. The Multi Flex option was only $445 on my Custom. On higher trim levels they force you into a certain high priced option package to then add on the gate. I think it was closer to $2500 on an LT by the time you were forced into the option package and then were able to add the Multi Flex option.

Must be really new. I hadn't seen this before. I purchased the Magnaflow straight pipe that cuts out the muffler but I also cut out the flapper since it's a major restriction. The J pipe should cut out the DFM drone. That was a popular exhaust choice for the 6.0 AFM motor on the Pontiac G8's. I love the straight pipe with the factory resonators in place. It's loud but not super loud when driving. There is a bit of weird sound around 1700-1900 RPM in 10th gear. Other than that it doesn't bother me with the DFM active. Magnaflow sound depends on the muffler setup you have. I put a cat back on my 2000 Camaro 3.8 V6 and it was LOUD. It was a shorty cross flow muffler. Because of the big back well where the T tops went and the muffler right under it, it resonated in the car a lot. I put sound deadening in the back and it helped some but was still loud. It was somewhat annoying but my now ex wife really hated it!

You're looking at ~$3500 to make it work. You have the tail gate already, which is a big cost. Is it for a 1500 LTZ? I see lots of 2500/3500 gates out there and they won't work on a 1500. I specifically wanted a Trail Boss Custom with the Multi Flex tailgate. The dealer couldn't find any mid February/early March and priced out adding the tailgate and about $3500 was what they found just for parts. The whole rear wiring harness is different for it as well as the BCM programming. I'm not sure if it's a different BCM or just has additional functions programmed in. I love my Multi Flex and works great for stepping up and down out of the bed loading stuff.

Screw any dealer marking vehicles up! They're just trying to rip you off and that's just the beginning of your ownership. Imagine how shitty they will be when it comes to service/warranty work! Go find another dealer with inventory or with an open allocation and order one. I don't think you can order the 22 Limiteds anymore. They're finishing up whatever they have on the books and switching to the refresh trucks.

Fleece Performance also makes a part to do this. I think it's better designed than the Boost part. https://www.fleeceperformance.com/electronics/all-lights-on/all-lights-on.html

Yeah, too much draw will cause them to do that. I ran into that on mine. I added small cube lights on my trailer hitch. I have the multiflex tailgate and it was fine with the stock lights but I upgraded them to brighter ones with more LEDs and it caused the same 2 blink then nothing result. I had to wire up a relay and tap the 12V+ from the trailer wiring harness to get power from. I put diodes on the reverse light trigger and the cargo light trigger into the relay so current can't back flow into the circuits.

The Blaster Corrosion Stop doesn't have any effect on the factory coating on the frame since it's a waxy substance anyways. There were a couple thin spots or where I had grabbed the frame and it came off when I was installing my running boards. I just covered the spots with the Blaster and have had no issues so far.

When I got my truck in May that stuff was being tested and not out for retail sale. Someone on YouTube had a test quart or so of it but didn't have any information as to when it would be available at retailers. It's hard enough finding anything besides FluidFilm around here.

I didn't get time to do the underneath fully, but I did behind the rear wheel wells when I installed the Husky Liner plastic liners and sprayed before and after I put the step boards on. I used Blaster Corrosion Stop. It's half the price of Fluid Film or others. I did some research of some people testing it on YouTube and it had as good or better results as the more expensive brands. It's safe for plastics/rubber and electronics.