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For my 2018 1500, the stock measure from center hub to fender was 21.5", and after Fox 2.0 coilovers, it came out to be 23.5". So 6" lift should be 27.5"...from hub. From ground, tire size changes will add to lift. My 275/70 18 measure in at 38 5/8" from ground to fender. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Anyone tried a 3rd party replacement? Recommendations? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

No, not a friend. Maybe being honest with insider knowledge, or maybe just sharing the 2019 sales pitch line... http://gmauthority.com/blog/2018/07/gm-8-speed-automatic-enhanced-for-2019-silverado-sierra/#ixzz5Ow567IkC Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Bought one of these (Dorman 917-412 (tall) or Chevrolet Performance Oil Fill Tubes 12559505 (short)), and modified it some to fit the Oil Filler hole of a 2018 Silverado Now I get to pour oil into a level hole opening, rather than one tilted to 45°. Never understood why they removed these, or made them a non-interchangeable part at least.

Montana. Karl Tyler. Live in Redmond, WA though. Local dealer is Lee Johnson. Sales guy at Lee Johnson gave me the insight while I was getting an oil change and browsing the 2019s.

Yes. Same problem every morning at the end of my driveway. I back out in Reverse, shift to Drive, and it spins free for a while before catching and driving forward. Explanation from the dealer is the torque converter and fluid getting moved around incorrectly. Also mentioned they are finding lots of water in the sealed 8speeds in higher mileage Camaros and Silverados. He said i could take it into the service department, but they won't likely have a full fix for this issue until mid 2019. Added that this is a significant issue for the Camaro 8speeds as well and that their fix is coming first, then the trucks.

Just some notes from my '18 6.2L experience so far: - I've never been able to fit 8qt of fresh oil in after draining the old stuff and replacing the filter. 7qts is a lot closer to what it seems to take. - I have also noticed the dip stick only reads from one side. I can't explain it, but that's what I see. Even cold. 0/20w seems really hard to read. Its like water. - After adding ~6qts new, I drive it around some (about 2 miles), let it sit for 30min+, and then recheck level. Once, I needed to add another quart, once it stayed full. My old GMs always took another quart after the quick drive. - between new and first change (2k), I didn't watch the oil level. Between the first and second oil change (7k miles), it burned 2qts. Between the second and third (5k) it didn't burn anything, but I added a CatchCan at the second oil change, and I've dumped that twice with about 8oz of sludge/oil. Seems to have stopped burning oil, so maybe that was break in.

https://www.magnaflow.com/products?partNumber=12909 12909

I replaced factory muffler with a Magnaflow. Deleted the flapper, but left the resonator. Only noise I hear that is new is under light throttle loads on the freeway (like on slight uphill). Other than that, it just sounds better and super quiet in V4.

Thank for the reminder. Mine was indeed at the bottom of the stick.

I did a similar thing. I had added Fox PS 2.0 shocks front and back, which leveled the truck out. But I wanted it a little higher so I added ReadyLift blocks to the back. Started with 2.25" blocks, (because I am chicken), which only gave me 1" lift in the rear (39.5 -> 40.75 ground to fender well). Some of that comes from the wheels/tires (18s with 275/70). If you don't mind me asking: what does your truck now measure from ground to fender well, and from center hub to fender well? Does "2.5" blocks from RC mean 3.5" blocks, since it swaps out the 1" factory block? Did you like the RC quality? Readylift was good, except one block had some bulge to it which made the u-bolt hard to fit. I am just worried I am stretching out the rear Fox shocks and loosing some effectiveness. Still new to this though.

BTW, if anyone wants my factory Bose speakers (2 x dash, 2 x 6x9 front, 2 x 6.5 rear), I'll take offers that include you paying shipping and packing. Just make it worth my time :-)

I replaced all the speakers in a 2018 LTZ except the center console sub. No amp upgrade yet. Speakers are Focal, so they are efficient, but the comments here about how Bose amp is tuned to the Bose speakers is very accurate in my opinion. The sound I get now, while much improved from a full range and deeper tighter low and mid perspective, it needs tuning in a bad way that the built in factory deck eq doesn't allow. It sounds good enough that I am not in a rush to rip out the interior and get a new amp installed and pull speaker wires (this is at least a $1000 investment as you really need a Nav-TV to get factory features (chime, ringer, etc) with a aftermarket amp). But I will be moving on to a JL Audio amp soon. The dash speakers are the hardest part. The mounting holes are hard to modify, and the Bose system/amp seems to over use this center channel. I put in Focal 3krx3 mids, and they sound good, but really highlighted the need to override the Bose amp processing. I am not sure about the noise canceling. I assume the amp is still attempting it, but since NC is so frequency specific, I doubt if the Focal replacements are doing as good a job. I wonder if there is a way to retune the system, like with home theaters? That would be cool!

I have a 2018 Silverado LTZ that came with bucket seats, so Bose 6+1 system with amp in back. I replaced all the factory speakers (doors and dash) and left the factory center console sub. Replacement speakers were Focal K2 Power 165KRC co-axle speakers in rear doors, 165KRX2 2-Way components in the front, and 3krk3 midrange 3.5" speakers in the dash. Running off the factory Bose amp right now, it definitely lost some volume, but picked up much better high frequencies and tighter low end bass, IMO. Not knocking the Bose setup, as it sounded very good. I have plans to add a JL Audio amp, along with the Nav-TV processor to keep the system sounds (phone calls, door chimes, seatbelt, etc) from being amplified; but am no longer in a hurry to do the work since the sound is fine as is with the Bose amp, and gets as loud as I use 90% of the time. The dash speakers were the most difficult to decide on. Leaving the Bose speakers, created a volume issue given they are more efficient than the Focals. So most volume came from the dash, and under-utilized the door Focals. Replacing the dash with Focal lost that over all volume (amp had to work harder), but balanced out the system better in terms of tone quality. Removing them completely, left me without a ringer for the phone or voice from the OnStar and Nav system. I am not sure using a Focal midrange driver in the dash, without a crossover, was the right call, but I am getting used to it. I think replacing the amp will make a huge difference and may force me to either change the dash speakers to full range, or add a crossover to clip. My original plan was to just replace the Sub. Glad I didn't go that route given some of the rattle reports here, and the quality of the bass I am getting from the Focals with the factory sub.

Swapped of the flat chrome factory running boards, with round black factory ones. Only on one side for now while I let them grow on me.

Trip from Redmond, WA to Redmond, OR. Averaged just over 20mpg over the whole trip. Good flat spots got 25mpg. Mt. Hood and Santiam pass cost some serious gas at about 14mpg.

Swapped a differential cover on my 2018 with 7k, just because. There was no build up of metal shavings, just typical fine black and gray microscopic stuff on the factory magnets (one on the housing, one on the factory cover). I replaced it with a B&M 71506, because I was intrigued by the addition of load bolts to prevent deflection. Since I like to accelerate hard, I figured this would balance out some of the "wear and tear" I cause. It definitely makes fluid changes more expensive (4 quarts, instead of 2), but easier since it has a drain hole. I reused the factory gasket, but had to modify it a little to work around the new drain hole location. Just trimmed some rubber, no metal. \

The phone mount has no wires. I am looking to add a USB port just for this location. Not done yet. I assume you are talking about the tweeters. I drilled a hole in the sail trim, and ran the wires down through the door. One benefit of this while using the factory Bose amp is that I didn't need to add a speaker wire though the door/body harness (I did anyway but am not using it yet. Its a PITA). The crossover is mounted in the door panel and taps off the existing door speaker wire. Let me know if that's not what you meant.

Yes, it is a phone mount. Magnetic. Anker makes them. Great quality, but they don't list it on their web site anymore. You can search "anker magnetic phone mount", or here's a store that seems to have them

Added component Focal speakers to the front, and coax to the rear doors. Still using factory Bose amp (for now), but they sound awesomely better. Still need to replace corner dash speakers. There are two of them, but I think they run from a mono center channel? Yet chimes seem to only come from the left one.....humm. Need to do some reading.

I had a 2012 Suburban where most/all electrical would randomly shut off and turn back on. Happened parked, at freeway speeds, and everything in between. It didn't shut off the engine though, but you did loose all electrical assist, Stabilitrac warnings, and transmission (electric). What would happen after is, once you manually shut off the engine, it wouldn't restart. To get it restarted, you had to wait, or "short" the negative terminal of the battery to the body (it would spark like a build up charge being released). After multiple (5+) failed attempts to diagnose and fix at the dealer, I convinced the service guy to replace the battery cables, and offered to pay if it didn't solve the problem. They found significant corrosion where the negative cable attached to the engine (and/or body), and replace under warentee. Problem never reappeared. Hope that helps.

Interesting way to look at it. I wonder how much it "costs" me to read these forums? All relative I guess when you are enjoying the time spent.

Swapped stock muffler with Magnaflow 12909 (Dan Fast Muffler is a great shop in Seattle area), deleted the flapper valve, added black tip; installed a Black Bear Performance ECM only tune. Sound is good. Could be a little louder at idle, but plenty sweet at WOT. Louder in cab for sure, but no longer notice the loud part, just the better sound part. Kept the AFM enabled for now, and don't notice it. Love the tune! Makes the truck respond so much cleaner and faster.

They replaced and refunded some money for the bigger to smaller move (diff in tire price). Good company.