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I got to mine (2018 with 48k) just before it probably would have grenaded. Was making a sound like rocks tumbling. Took the belt off and it was obvious. Didn't get it covered by warrantee because I like wrenching, but broke a bolt off trying to get it out. So the simple replacement turned into a complete disassembly of front of engine (AC, Alt, brackets). Fun, but took a while. Also got new coolant and belts. (2) 2018 Silverado water pump failure - YouTube

with Fox Shocks providing a 2" level, on my 2018 I put on 18x9 +1 wheels and used both 275/70 (33x 10.8, and 295/65 (33x 11.6) tires. Some very uncommon rubbing in certain situations, and had to pin back wheel liner, but was able to keep mud flaps (too many gravel roads not too). W/o mud flaps, I don't think they would rub at all. I am not sure if stock offset would have worked. Square wheel wells are finicky. But +1 looks better to me.

I was replacing my broken water pump (2018, 45k miles mind you...seems early for a failed baring, but you know, the factory parts are top notch ). Anyway, getting one of the bolts out, it broke off. In the housing. Tried drilling and taping, but that made a mess. So I needed a new housing. Not something they carry at Autozone or Napa. Online: $176, 7d delivery at best. Local Chevy dealer: $400 + tax Its a Sat, and my truck is not going to run without water....so... Price I am willing to pay: "lots" I am *not* glad the dealer wanted $400, but they were open on a Sat, paying the salary of a parts counter guy. They had the part, and probably thousands of other specialty parts for my truck in the back ready to go. I got a free bottle of water, and nice hello from the receptionist, a friendly reminder that it would have been covered by my extended warrantee if I had not attempted the work myself; And, a nice new C8 to sit in while I waited for him to dig it up from the back. I get that it feels like a rip off, but given that it got my truck back up and running faster than mail order would have, with above average knowledge and service compared to my local Autozone, its a price I accept as part of capitalism. They wanted $100 the other day to change my cabin filter. I passed on helping them out that much with their profit margin.

I use one on my boat for winter storage. It gets stored in a big boat yard storage rack with no access to power. So, my options are take the battery home to a plug in tender, or leave it on the solar charger. I don't have that brand, and don't recall the brand I have, but it works just fine. Even up here in the PacificNorthwest with little sun light in the winters My only fear has been theft, but it hasn't happened so far.

Good point. So maybe OP can call one of the 'plug in' tune companies (SuperChips, Diablo, etc) and see if they have a solution. Since some of their solutions just override ECM values in "real-time" and are advertised as working on 2019+, maybe they have a config that can set the idle speed? They disable DFM/AFM that way. Or, find a dealer that is willing to set the idle speed. Or, find a non-dealer with GM approved equiptment. Just thoughts.

My experience on several GM V8s, is money is better spent on a good tune (Dyno or mail, not generic) first, exhaust second, and a CAI last, if ever. The CAI at that point will be for sound and opinion only. You'll get 95% of horse power gains with the tune, 5% with the exhaust. I assume that's why GM sells you a CAI with a tune. Its the tune that matters, but people need a physical thing they can see and understand. Once you get the tune, then the catback, then headers to make use of the cat back, then the CAI and ported TB to make the sound and air flow just a little bit extra...you are getting close to the price of a supercharger...which is how you really flow air that matters. So maybe start there. Either way, the money spent is good entertainment and good wrenching fun. So it is money well spent in my book either way. But Grumpy is right. Physics is physics. Money and marketing don't change it. If you want real HP/torque improvements, stick with the good tunes first, or boost.

Why $2000? Wouldn't it just be $300 for a HP MPVI2, and 10 credits for a 2020 Silverado 5.3/6.2? So around $800. That should unlock the ECM and allow for idle RPM programing. BTW: my 2018 6.2L with 50k idles at 500, and is so smooth I sometimes wonder if it is on at stops. If yours vibrates, I'd wonder if there is a problem (fouled spark plugs, plugged injectors, clogged air, etc).

What Messaging app do you use for SMS? Are you not getting sound notification, or not getting the "toast" pop-down from the top of the screen notification, or not getting the message at all? Can you open your SMS app on the truck's screen in AA? Does it show the new message? (it only shows messages that were received while connected for that drive) I am not sure what version of AA is available on the S10, but on my s21 it is 6.2.610914 my settings look like below, and I get a truck (Chevy MyLink) sound effect when a message arrives (like the door chime), unless I turn off the setting the Truck's/MyLink setting (see top photo) No matter how I configure the AA settings, I get a toast pop-down on the screen, but the sound setting seems to work but is worded backwards in my opinion (turn this on to turn sound off) Truck's MyLink settings under Bluetooth: Android Auto Settings:

^^^^^ What TheJet07 said. It will only shoot what is stamped on the side of the barrel. No single gun can shoot all those calibers. Most rifle models come in multiple different calibers. Some shoot multiple (some .357 can shoot .38 Special), but .30-.30 doesn't interchange with anything.

There are two networks in your truck. One is the Wifi Hotspot. You pay for service, and it allows devices in your truck to connect and get access to the internet over 4g cellular radio. I have only found one way to manage it, and that's through the MyChevrolet phone app. You can edit the name (SSID) and change the password. The other is the ability of your truck to connect to other (external) wifi networks (like McDonalds or your home) to get access to the internet for the Entertainment system (updates, app installs, etc). This is free. I connect my truck to my home network in the driveway, but I don't see much data usage between the two. This connection you can control for the truck and connect to as many networks as you'd like (as long as you know the passwords for each).

That's why I mounted mine in the sail panel of the door. You only have to run the wires from the cross over up the door panel. Running them back through the door conduit to the body is exceptionally hard. Stick with component. They sound much better than leaving the tweeter down low. I believe the other approach is to find the door wires under the dash, cut into them to hook up the crossover, then use the cut wire running to the door to power the woofer, and run the tweeter to the A pillar or the dash somewhere.

Like the look of the PML. I installed a B&M on mine a few years back. Might be a fancy drain feature, might get me to 1mil mile mark. I don't really care which, I just like goofing around with my truck.

Depends on your factory setup. Dash speakers in my LTZ with Bose are a separate channel, so they don't connect to door speakers at all. If you want separates in the door (better sound), you need to find a good spott o mount the tweeters. I put mine in the door sail to make it easy to connect crossover.

Wireless Carplay and Andoid Auto doesn't require a hotspot data plan (it uses the phone internet connectivity) but it does require wifi (dual band radio) and GPS system in the car. It uses Bluetooth to connect phone and some audio, but needs to do the screen projection via wifi and can't run the GPS and wifi radios at the same time on the phone, so it uses the car's GPS for navigation functions.

My 2018 8speed, does this almost every morning shifting from 1-2 when cold unless I either 'gun it', or sometimes warmup a really long time (5-10min). There is doc that GM pointed me to (16-NA-361). I'll try to find it, but it will be different for 2019 I assume. It was explained to me that the fluid pressure needed to build up.

If you didn't feel the misfires, it's much more likely a bad crank position sensor. That's what the ecu uses to calculate a misfire. It expects the crank to accelerate and decelerate in an exact pattern based on cylinders firing. When it gets this wrong repeatedly, it reports the misfire. It's not hard or expensive to replace, so start there (imo).

I know this is kind of late, but:

I doubt you can fit 34" tires on factory wheels with factory offset. Even with a 2" level. I think you need a 4"+ lift (with changes to drive line to accommodate). I got a level (2018 1500) by adding new FOX coilover/struts. The front end went from 36.5" ground to fender, to 38.6". With 33x11 tires on 18x9 +1 wheels, I needed some fender trimming and adjustments to mud flaps to not rub. The different offset (from -24 to +1) helped clear the running gear (arms, sway bar, etc). I do see some people claiming to get 34" to fit on a 2" level, and I tried (34.3" - 295/70) but even on the new wheels, it was rubbing at full lock. I am not a fan of that, so I went smaller (33.1 - 295/65). In my experience, bigger tires need aftermarket wheels with more offset. And bigger than 33x11 needs lots of trimming.

If it was possible that one of your rear wheels lost traction, you might have felt the rear diff lock up. It throws out a little latch when speed between the left and right changes, and locks up the rear wheels. Can be abrupt.

I installed the JL Stealth sub in the center console. I like it. A lot. plenty of bass for me and can play loud and shake the mirrors. My steps in upgrading the Bose system in my 2018, where I was trying to keep the factory head unit and all factory features (phone, OnStar, controls, etc): 1) upgrading the door speakers. Nice improvement, but use efficient speakers, the Bose amp is not very powerful). I also went with two way separates, and mounted the tweeter in the door sail. Can use the factory speaker wires, and the location save from having to run tweeter wire back through the door boot. Does mean mounting the cross over in the door, which need to consider keeping dry. 2) wanted more power, so used a NAVTV m650 (expensive) to add a JL Audio amp 5 channel amp to run the door speakers and make room for a sub. This kept the door chimes and phone rings to normal volume, and made the door speaker sound much better, plus added tons of clean volume. 3) Got the JL Stealth sub and used the amps sub channel. This was another big improvement. 4) last, I upgraded the dash speakers and added another 2ch amp to support. Looking back this is critical. The way the Bose system works, a lot of signal is sent to these speakers. Both for music and for environment sounds (door, phone, etc). Upgrading them with good full range or at least mid range speakers is important. it adds a ton of mid range bass (kick drum), and fills in the sound stage. The Bose seems to steer a ton of signal to these speakers. While the NAVTV and new amps improve the sound, it is still the head unit and Bose processor that determines which and what signals goes to which channel. I really like the end result. As loud as I need it, with great deep bass, and kept most of the factory features. I think I lost the Active Noise Cancelation. Not sure if this was from the sub replacement, or the NAVTV processor, but I am not sure it would still work since I changed the exhaust (headers and muffler). My understanding is it is tuned to 6.2L exhaust note at idle (lower than previous), and tries to "cancel" the low frequencies that are most "annoying". Anyway, I am not sure it still does anything and not sure how to test it. Working on the Bose does make it more challenging, but I'd probably do it again the same way, except all at once. Good luck

Maybe it wasn't Stabilitrak being off that helped, but rather Traction Control being off. Stabilitrak tries to keep the truck from flipping over by detecting when the truck is in a skid (understeer/oversteer) and applies brakes to correct the direction of the skid. My experience is it works awesome at highway speeds. I am not sure what it would do when the truck is stuck and just spinning its wheels. Traction Control on the other hand tries to detect wheel spin and applies breaks to slipping wheels to direct more torque to wheels that are not spinning (assume because they have traction). However, in the snow, when traction is missing or at the edge on all wheels, it can be better to turn the system off and allow the driver control of spin with the throttle and rocking (like you said you did in 4L). 4L turns both off, but you can also turn them off with the button.

It comes off when you get a windshield replaced. Looks like it wasn't installed back right. You could try to adjust it, or stop by a windshield shop and see if they have an idea. It keeps debris out mostly, not sure it needs to be water tight.

My 18 came with Duratracs, I swapped to Nitro Ridge Grapplers at about 5k when I swapped wheels and lifted/leveled. I liked the looks of the Nittos better and felt they performed about same as factory. In early Dec at 48k I swapped back to Duratracs. WOW. These aftermarket ones are way better in wet and snow than the Nittos or from what I recall the factory Duratracs. Not sure why that would be, but I am super happy with them. No road noise, good highway manners, smooth ride(but I have 18"rims).

$195 for a LT5 TB + $70 for the adapter plate to fit a L86 intake? Yeah, that saves some money, I guess. Assuming he is starting with the L86 intake, or upgrading to one, at least. I'll have to add headers and CAI on mine first (coming) before getting my brain wrapped on 95mm vs 91mm.

I did this one: SE8223-040, 87 MM (91 MM EFF.) - $275 now, I think I got a discount/sale price. Don't recall.