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I got a Soler Performance TB on my L86 and I thought it added a nice improvement from stock.

Update: I now have close to 49k on the truck, or about 5k since the swap. I swapped in NGK plugs (LTR5AHX 90220) and MSD wires (33829). It has been a very nice improvement. Idle and acceleration are smoother. In early Dec, I found the MSD coils (82688) on sale so installed a set of those as well. With that combination all pinging at WOT is gone, and idle is as smooth as I ever recall it being when new. I'd make these changes again, and think waiting until 40-50k+ miles make sense since the improvement seem to get me back to what I recall the new truck felt like (Idle and WOT), rather than better than the original. So it seems some of these parts just wear out sooner than the factory would like to claim. I also agree with keeping the intake and top end clean. I run Seafoam and CRC through the PCV port next to the TB on my 6.2 every oil change, and this certainly helps with idle smoothness as well.

I got the ARB Tred. I used them a dozen times or so, and think they work great. When using them on hard snow/ice, they do have a tendency to become projectiles. Never owned a different brand, so not sure how they compare. I'd certainly get these again. TRED RECOVERY BOARDS (arbusa.com)

Thanks for that AFM info, good to know. Yeah, I wish I hadn't lost track of where they came from. I don't lose oil that I notice on the stick. I did have a clogged oil catch can for a few months. I wonder if the darker plug came from the intake closest to the PCV hose?

Decided to spend some stuck at home time to replace my spark plugs. 2018 only has 44k on it (mostly local but around 1/4 longer multi day drives), but this is my third truck with active fuel management and cylinder deactivation, so I am always suspicious of fouled plugs. Truck was running OK, but idled rougher than when new. Here's the pics. Unfortunately, when moving the plugs they got mixed up (good shop help is hard to find and he reminded me I pay him nothing ?). I believe the oil soaked darker one is from the right rear (passenger) spot (#8). New plugs and wires are in. I'll probably run them for about 5-10k and check again to see if it is persistent.

In Washington, dealing with the heavier wet snow/ice we get here, 4wd is the big plus, but even with AT tires, I have gotten my Silverado 1500 stuck many times. Even on major highways. Most cases, just because of ice, but a few because of depth of snow. So I always carry traction boards. Got me unstuck every time when Auto, 4H or 4L wasn't enough to cut it and shoveling wasn't going to give me traction. Those, plus a good recovery rope are in my truck all winter. Save me and helps me save others.

You might check that you seated the wires fully. Fitting them on the coil requires a bit of force until it "clicks" and seats on the post inside the coil insulator that the boot wraps on. I found this out because with vibration, if not seated fully, they tend to slide off and form a slight gap. This can cause the engine to stutter and stall at idle, or sometimes only with light load as the computer tries to sort out what's wrong. I just replaced my plugs and wires after 44k miles. I used MSD wires (33828) and NGK plugs (LTR5AHX). Runs great. You might also measure the wires to see if they are low resistance/in spec. Not a fan of the ACDelco wires. after 44k and 3 years, they were brittle, had very high resistance (in all fairness, they might have gotten worse in the effort to get them off), and are not well made IMO. Taylor and MSD are much higher quality. Plugs...ACDelco is great. I went with NGK. I'll report if I have problems, but 200 miles so far and no issues, idles like it was new. I have considered replacing the coils too, but have no good reason to do so yet, and would do it in steps to feel the difference. I did on a old Suburban when two broke, and the MSD ones were great for over 50k miles.

You right. I sware mine had moved on my last trip and turned red at the bottom. I must have been seeing things.

Odd to me that there is not much consistency to their use of these gauge "icons". Some move, some don't. For example, the Fuel gauge icon actually moves as you get close to empty, the Oil Life monitor shows a clock, even though the oil life is a finite gauge (it runs out), and the transmission temp is a icon that looks very static (too me). Seems like engine hours should use the clock icon from oil life (it never runs out), and oil life should use the pie gauge from engine hours. But maybe I spent too much time thinking about this ?

Thanks. So I know when a clock rolls over you get a new day (or half day). When, as you say this obvious graphic rolls over, what do you get? Or, are you saying the graphic doesn't move....I hadn't seen it that way. I guess I need to get head/brain at the parts store next time.

I searched as best I could, and found lots of people talking about engine hours and what they mean, but I can't find an answer for how to read the gauge. On the control panel, it shows a number for the hours, and inside the engine graphic is a pie gauge that is filling in. But how long does it take, and what does it signify when it fills in? At 1570hrs, it shows about 2/3 full. So at 4500hrs do I change the oil? Rebuild it? Watch it reset and fill up again? The manual says nothing.

I have found that on many tire retail sites, you need to find the tire first, and the check that it fits by adding truck, versus entering your truck first and asking for tires that fit. Don't know why.

Try following these steps: https://www.700r4transmissionhq.com/battery-saver-active/

Original tires on my 2018 LTZ were 32.1x11.2 (285/45/r22) and the wheels were 22" +24 (9Jx22 ET24). I moved to 18x9 +1. Depending on the width of the tire mounted (I have 10.8" on now), they sit about flush at the top of the fender well.

PIAA Si-Tech (silicone instead of rubber). Last long, wipe good. Quiet. But I don't drive an HD. Just a little 1500. ?

ATF Dexron-VI for transfer case 75w85 for rear diff 75w90 front diff if its 4x4 I change mine every year to year and a half.

I need to replace my front bumper, which is body color (2018 LTZ in Centennial Blue). Local body shop wants $1100+tax to do the work (parts - $500; assembly - $250; $300 paint). Part number is 84029814. I can find the part for ~$350 online, with free shipping, and then get it painted for $200-$300 locally. Or I can order the part pre-painted to match my body color, and shipped for around $560. This might be aftermarket part though. Has anyone had any experience with pre-painted to match body parts? Does the color match close enough? can it be shipped without damage?

new brake pads. 2018 crewcab with 38k miles, and just got curious if I could improve braking some, so I got a new set of PowerStop brake pads and pealed off the factory originals. Turns out they are some form of Akebono EURO Ultra-Premium ceramics based on the part number (still visible). They were not worn down too much, which was a bit of a surprise, given I think I brake hard. Just got the new ones bedded. Decided not to replace rotors since they are hardly worn and not grooved. We'll see if there is much difference, but I guess I can always go back to factory given the condition.

I guess I solved the crease problem in the back. I forgot I folded it over the other way a few weeks back, and when I went to take the pictures, it sat more straight and doesn't catch in the door any more.

I have the GM mats, but have a center console, so my front is split, but rear are interlocking. I like them, but: - they are cut out under accelerator petal so dirt grinds into the carpet here. - the get caught in the rear doors and "fold" which becomes a permanent crease. - they weather/scratch and get a worn look. Protection is good enough though, and they fit really well.

One piece of input. I have a E2-x can with the ball valve on the bottom. Its easy to empty, but does take some coordination to hold a container and open the valve while contorting your hands to get to it. At least based on my mounting to the brake booster. Bigger deal is that every once in a while, the ball valve gets jammed up with the crap caught by the can. It sort of solidifies into a plug the consistency of wet clay. A piece of wire can open it up, but you really need to clean out the can. Had it on for about 30k now. Only cleaned it once after I wasn't getting any fluid out. Took me longer than it should have to figure it out, but once I did, I kind of like the design of the new one where the bottom screws off as its own container and no valve to clog. For me, I plan to clean it out once a year now just to prevent the clog. Very happy with how much it pulls out of the engine though.

Rubbed the mud flaps for sure, plus front liner. Even with trimming, it still rubbed. Not enough to be undrivable, but noticeable. A little tread wear I think would have solved it. But I chickened out when someone said it looked like a double stuff Oreo

Fuel Sledge 18x9 +1 (Thread Size: M14 x 1.5, 6x5.5(139.7) Bolt Pattern) Tires: 1st attempt (rub in reverse and full lock): 295/70r18 Nitto Ridge (34.3 x 11.6) Now (no rub): 275/70 r18 Nitto Ridge (33.2 x 10.8) Want 285/70/18 (out of stock a few years ago) I might move back to Duratrac from Goodyear though. I love the look and low road noise of the Nittos, but their winter snow, ice, and slush perf was fairly poor. My measures from ground to fender are 39 in front and 40 in rear. PS: thanks for the compliment too ?

I added a ReadyLift 2.25" REAR BLOCK KIT as well as the Fox shocks front and back. It sits about 1" higher in back, but I carry a lot of gear regularly, so it is often level.

Based on the threads, it looks like a lot ? but based on the specs of 0-2". I kind of assume they are set at close to max. Trying to get more preload, in my mind, is going to mess with the travel and create sprint bind potential. However, I was going to try to get .5 inch more, and adjust the left to right height a little for road crown.