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Very cool. Nice work. I'll bet this will keep your valves much cleaner than we can legally in the states.

I'd like to see how you rigged up the dirty side and output of your PCV. Sounds interesting. But, then I have to ask, if none of your PCV is flowing back into the intake, what are you trying to clean up after with the throttle body PEA induction? Nice work by the way explaining how and why you are doing stuff and experimenting. Too many people just want answers they can declare to be absolute truths.

Yes, PEA is a good cleaner. Maybe try putting the PEA in a spray bottle instead of pouring? Also, even though adding injector cleaner to DI engines doesn't clean the valves, it is wrong to imply or say it therefore doesn't work. Carbon and deposits build up in more than one place. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Can't feel or hear mine. Have to look. 2018 6.2L with MagnaFlow muffler, with factory resonator. Flapper removed. No CAI. Blackbear AFM tune. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

My Centennial found his little brother while I was inside at work:

That's funny. I had figured with the Eugene, OR background, maybe you figure out how to make some homemade ethenol out of hemp left overs. If you do, consider a trademark for the e420. In the meantime, 420hp is fun too.

I just noticed your plate. Is that 'Flex Fuel"?

Not only that, but its just wrong info too. If you want to know how the 2014-2018 transfer cases work, go read about them. Magna Powertrain MP3023/3024 if you have RPO code NQH. The manufacture clearly states how Auto mode works. There is no normal griding noise, at least not defined by the manufacturer. But any fix is expensive. I'd suggest getting a "second opinion" from an independant transmission or differential shop, and using that to pressure the dealer if you still have a powertrain warranty. the lift should only be a problem if the drivetrain angles were not taken care of, but it will be an easy excuse. BTW, I drive 80% of the time in Auto. I only really use 2x when on the highway in summer to save a little gas. 3rd truck, pervious 2 over 100k, and no TC "wore out" yet. But everything wares out at some point I guess.

Yeah, nothing says don't bother breaking in like an Oregon Ducks hitch and plate frame..... GO BEARS!!!

I find it very tricky to read the oil on the 2018 dipsticks. Particularly the 0-20 stuff when new because it is "water like in its transparency and thinness". Also found that one side of the stick seems to read more accurately than the other. Meaning one side will show the level right at the high mark, and the other side will show oil another 2-4 inches up. I don't know if this is from scraping as it goes in and out, or what. For me, I drain the oil. Then add 1.5gal/6qts. Run the engine until warm or a short drive. Let it sit over night. Read it in the morning, and fill as needed. The only time I added all 8quarts/2gal called for, it read well over the top mark and I had to pump some out the dip stick.

Replaced cabin filter 10months in. Can you tell them apart? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

On my 2012 the auto-level shocks, a similar noise turned out to be the air compressor hose had come detached from the compressor or the shock. Once I reconnected it, and got the lock spring/clamp to seat properly, it disappeared until the hole compressor went bad (over 40k miles). Not sure about the 2018s, but just look for a plastic tube coming from the side of the rear shock. Follow that back and check each joint to see if they are tight. You might also narrow it down by checking if the noise if coming from teh compressor. It should be mounted behind the driver side rear wheel, up on the fender. Looks like a potable air compressor wrapped ina rubber cage/box. If that's where the noise is coming from, its either bad, or there is a loose connection and it runs until it can hold enough pressure temporarily.

Dude! I've now got my next project. That looks sweet! Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Damn. That's cool. I might need to get a Twk88 just to play around. Thanks for all the detail. Very nice setup you have. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

So are your tweeters, mids, fd woofers running off one source signal (L or R) and "crossed over/tuned" 3x, or do the dash mids run the center channel mono source? What JL processor hub do you use? Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Does your setup still have factory headunit? If so, do you notice if the dash speakers still produce significant volume even when the headunit is faded all the way to the rear? I am trying to sort out if I got something hooked up reversed, or if that's just the head unit’s steering for environmental sounds reasons. I have a Nav-TV and JL HD amps. Doors and sub on one amp (4+1), dash on the other (2). I kind of wished I had looked into the Vxi amp series, for the extra control.

How do you like the tweeter placement? I put mine (Focal too) in the door sails with the same Mounts pointing at me. I think they are too close to my ear and therfore maybe too bright. Was considering a flat mount in the same location to see if that helps, or up on dash like yours. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Here is a good tech document on the tranfer case with an RPO of NQH: https://www.evopower.ca/mrws/filedriver/MP3023_and_3024_Operation.pdf Clearly states that the Auto4x4 is clutch based and can be used full time even on dry pavement. I only turn it off to save gas on longer drives. Even in the dead of summer, it works great for gravel drives and loose surfaces. I paid for it, so i use it.

Still notable however that they never added anything to the owner’s manual about this. After decades of Auto 4x4 modes (aka: full time, AWD, etc) and vehicles that can't even be switched out of AWD, people still say "you shouldn’t drive around in AWD all the time, because...".

Consider a bypass instead of a straight pipe. Gives you the option of two modes. Just an idea. I had a guy weld up a whole '70 Camaro exhaust for $200. He had to bend and weld. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

From my 2018 Owners Manual: Voltmeter Gauge: When the ignition is on, this gauge indicates the battery voltage. When the engine is running, this gauge shows the condition of the charging system. The gauge can transition from a higher to lower or a lower to higher reading. This is normal. If the vehicle is operating outside the normal operating range, the charging system light comes on. See Charging System Light 0 147 for more information. The voltmeter gauge may also read lower when in fuel economy mode. This is normal. Readings outside the normal operating range can also occur when a large number of electrical accessories are operating in the vehicle and the engine is left idling for an extended period. This condition is normal since the charging system is not able to provide full power at engine idle. As engine speeds are increased, this condition should correct itself as higher engine speeds allow the charging system to create maximum power. The vehicle can only be driven for a short time with the readings outside the normal operating range. If the vehicle must be driven, turn off all accessories, such as the radio and air conditioner. Readings outside the normal operating range indicate a possible problem in the electrical system. Have the vehicle serviced as soon as possible.

Really like what the sun does to the Centennial Blue

Added a LPR Reverse Light (mounts above license plate) because I still can't see enough behind me, even with factory reverse light LED upgrades, in our pitch black NW winter nights. Adds plenty of extra light, and I like it so far...

I think it has to be in the file folder with the music file to show up. Edit: according to the manual, it can also be in the ID3 tag in the MP3 file itself. There are MP3 tag editors you can use to check. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Sorry to resurrect this old thread, but it was the only one I found mentioning media types that the factory head unit can play. I my case, I was using a USB drive, and found this info from the user manual helpful: Music files with .mp3, .wma, .ogg, and .wav file name extensions can be played. MP3 files that can be played: Bit rate: 8 kbps to 320 kbps. Sampling frequency: 48 kHz, 44.1 kHz, 32 kHz, 24 kHz, 22.05 kHz, and 16 kHz. Files with a bit rate above 128 kbps will result in higher quality sound.