DeePa

Agreed 100 percent. I also think the trans tuning is a big part of it. You don’t hear about the 14s and 15s having this issue.

I read that article. Unfortunately mines at the dealer and I’m going with a stock one for now. Once the warranty is up on the new trans, I’ll pull it and put in a billet one. I cannot make the dealer wait for my converter to come in. I’m happy it’s covered and only costing me my deductible.

You mean 80k? Prices are getting absurd.

They aren’t tearing it apart but doing a full replacement. Extended warranty company has to come check it out before they authorize it. where did you get the converter? What was the lead time?

106k 2017 5.3 6 speed felt a slip and a bump in 3rd gear. Under moderate acceleration, heard grinding. Limped home a few miles. Towed to dealer, results TBD. im thinking the torque converter let go and ruined the whole trans. history - chuggle TSB when the truck was new. Flushed at 50k at the dealer. Dropped pan at 100k and changed filter / replaced lost fluid with fresh dex 6. Pan was clean. Fluid looked great. Not much on the magnet. Looked brand new inside. 90 percent highway miles. Maybe 3000 miles towing, nothing more than 5000 lbs. don’t haul much. Don’t overload when I do. I don’t even drive it really hard....maybe mash the go pedal once a month. aftermarket converters - what’s available? what stall is the stock one? hoping extended warranty covers this. anyone with any thoughts / comments / inputs? thanks. mike

Never know what lazy people are capable of.

Why reinvent the wheel and risk getting your rubber coupler stuck in the tube? are you just going to leave the filter? You’re under there anyways.

Lick a dick mods wake the **** up and get rid of this guy

Looking for a good take off grill to fit my 2017 Sierra 1500 color needed is crimson red PM me - thanks. serious buyer.

I did a dealer flush and fill at 50k and dropped the pan, changed the filter, and refilled what was lost. I will just run it until it lets go at this point.

Could be something from the blower motor housing. Usually those rubber backed flange nuts acts as a gasket. So I think that it was used to seal outside air from coming in to the hvac system from under the hood somewhere. have you looked up parts diagrams yet? How about a service manual?

Common issue. Bad batch of thermostats that cycle too often causing the radiator to weep at the plastic / aluminum seam. Condenser needs to be removed. AC discharged and recharged. Trans topped off. Coolant replaced. Thermostat replaced. Oil topped off. Lots of labor involved. it’s very well documented here. Search.

Fix the warranty stuff and tighten the plugs yourself

Replace the bulb. They are dual filament. Parking lights are one filament, the other is for turn signal.

Getting my truck tuned was the best thing I could have done. The torque converter...It’s either locked up or not. No more 4cyl mode. I had it done around 50k miles. Now at 103k, dropped the pan to do the trans filter and looked brand new inside. Just some metal on the magnet. oh and 30 hp and 30 tq across the whole curve running on 89 pump gas.

How old is the current battery? You can have it load tested at any auto retailer. Just because it shows full voltage doesn’t mean it has the amps needed to turn the motor over anymore. The fact that it needed a boost one time and started fine leads me to believe your battery is pooched. it sounds like one of the computers isn’t booting up consistently. I’m assuming because of low voltage. Any check engine lights? personally, if the battery is 4 years old, I’d just swap it out. My 2017 is on the original one and it reads 12.1 volts after sitting for a day or two. It still starts but isn’t all that happy if it’s cold out. I’m delaying it as long as possible for some reason. Why? I don’t know. these trucks are very picky regarding battery Health / cables / voltage.

No. It just stopped a few weeks later and never happened again. it may have been something with the AC even though it was in the middle of winter.

I towed a toy hauler with my 17 1500 when it only had 6000 miles on it...from RI to IN and back. 6500 lbs loaded. I saw around 10 mpg average. 70 mph or so tops. What you’re seeing is normal. The 3.43s don’t help. I had an 04 z71 that had 3.73 and got 21 mpg no matter what I did with it on the highway. I miss that truck. Should have done the brake lines and body work and kept it.

I had a clunk and my sway bar end link was broken.

I have a 17 with the 6 speed and 96k next week I’m doing trans filter, oil change, plugs and wires. The trans was flushed at 50. Both differentials and transfer case were done at 50k also. Cabin filter once a year. Will do the diffs / tcase again at 100, coolant and brake fluid at 150. this truck has to last me 10 years and 250k. They’re too expensive now.

Bad owner

Just fix the brakes. A lot cheaper. trans has the tsb. Get it done.

Did you physically test the fuses? Do you have power at the switch? How about at the drivers window motor? What about pulling the negative cable and letting it sit for a while then power it back up? Does the door ajar light stay lit when the drivers door is shut?

So I went to check out the rears. They’re smoked. Brake shoes shot too and crumbled coming off. Had to beat one rotor off. Wicked rust holding the rotor from passing the shoes. They were at the lowest setting too. Its a shame the rear calipers aren’t painted. Corrosion like crazy. Hardware clips were flimsy too. Ordered the same ac severe duty rotors and pads. Love the fronts so far. Cleaned up and painted calipers too. It seems that once you need rear brakes, you might as well do calipers and brackets too. Same with parking brake shoes.

Posted in another thread...but to follow up 2017 Sierra. 63 k front pads 50 percent worn front rotors are warped. Pads dug into them pretty good. All slide pins were fine. Everything came apart easy minus the bleeders. They were starting to rust jack and didn’t come out well. Bought a new set from NAPA...the self bleeders. Removed calipers to clean and paint them. Trying to keep the rust away and make this thing last. waiting on pads delivery (Friday) but went with AC deco severe duty from RA. Came to a little under $300 for the fronts. Rears at a later date. Not sure if they need it but I plan on pulling the calipers to paint and match the front sooner than later. I’m 99 percent sure the front rotors were causing the pulsation at highway speeds while braking.