Jump to content

2006 Silverado Crew Cab


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, the second time is a charm (I guess) and I hope I dont have to go through a third time...I finally installed my console and have kept the kids away from it so it should last alot longer than the first one.

 

The first thing I did was tear down the dash:

 

I removed the lower kick panel, glove box trim with the glovebox itself attached and removed the dash trim bezel:

 

 

 

78382559.jpg

 

95679b0a.jpg

 

8655ecfe.jpg

 

 

 

As you can see in the pictures, I also took off the "captains" chairs (yes I know that they are actually 40/40 seats) as well as the center seat (20).

 

 

 

I opted this time around to get a socket that was designed for this very task of removing the seats. I got the SC620B from Mac Tools http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/...993-sc620b.aspx

 

and had to use a prybar with my torque wrench to remove the seats. I guess this was the result of the dealership having serviced my seats after the last install and perhaps they tightened them down to hard...who knows. This socket removes this nut:

 

afa289fd.jpg

 

and the rear bolts are removed with an E14 socket....:

 

efe9803b.jpg

 

 

 

A word of caution on removing the seats from the truck: I got a deep papercut (looks like a papercut) from the seat track edge when the seat slipped while I was removing it...I wasnt wearing gloves at the time but it wasnt bad...just a word of caution.

 

I decided to leave my plastic mat under the console to protect the edges of the "exposed" carpet that is still visible after the install (kids)

 

fd40f404.jpg

 

When Installing this plate be careful not to pinch any wires/harnesses that may be present in your truck

 

26792613.jpg

 

f1865b05.jpg

 

15994aef.jpg

 

 

 

Here is the console that I was installing. I ended up tearing down the console due to the rear right vent being loose and I ended up having to order some ABS glue since I was not satisfied with the products that I found in the local hardware stores.

 

3a5b1310.jpg

 

 

 

Also, my plan is to make the rear air vents functional once I receive the correct airbox. Here is the stock one (behind the metal brackets)

 

705a7866.jpg

 

Pictures of the naked interior:

 

c1930ced.jpg

 

ef20ab61.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

 

Here are some pictures of the completed console install (for now):

 

54eace60.jpg

 

af8792b5.jpg

 

ca551add.jpg

 

e4e7e7ed.jpg

 

701a3fa1.jpg

 

83bf2e71.jpg

 

c6fe0de9.jpg

 

7a093a3b.jpg

 

4d7d3e96.jpg

 

05387bdd.jpg

 

2dd3d3d8.jpg

 

9d23bc79.jpg

 

d4937730.jpg

 

 

 

List of tools to make it happen:

 

Torque wrench (3/8" or 1/2" drive)

 

Flat tip screw driver

 

phillips screw drivers

 

7mm socket

 

GM Seat Track Socket V620

 

E14 External Torx socket

 

Gloves

 

3" extension bar (3/8" or 1/2")

 

6" extension bar (3/8" or 1/2")

 

1/2" to 3/8" adapter (if necessary)

 

Total Cost:

 

Console and all associated hardware: $382.00

 

Mac Socket SC620B: $8.00 (even though the website says $13.00)

 

Airbox: $180.00 (yet to arrive)

 

Yes I was impatient on installing the console without the correct airbox to make the rear air vents work but I already have some light modifications in store for the console so I may combine those modifications on the next teardown.

 

 

 

I would like to extend a big thanks to Travis (Trav_13) and Rich (MS3DALE)

 

Travis is the guy that provided me with the parts to make this swap possible and answering my questions as to fitment, tips, and tricks to this mod. Rich, thanks for answering those hard part questions as well as getting me the correct information and finding me the part that I needed to get to make it happen. If that dealership every fires you, I think I will stage a one man riot :thumbs:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Nice work! I did the same to my 05! I would like to add the full console to my 09 but the are not too common from what i've seen!

  • 5 years later...
Posted

Is the piece that goes around the glovebox a trim piece or do i need a new dash? Just curious i have th console thats all i was wondering

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 376 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
    • Probably not their first rodeo, so it should go as planned most likely.  Typically the service manager or tech doing the swap will put some seat time to shake it down after they get it all put back together.  We usually put 50-100mi before we hand them back so if something happens, its not after you get it.  A coolant leaks, oil leaks, a ground left off or loose, vibration, etc.     The new engines so far have been good?  There's been a couple that have popped out there again (the replacement engine) but most have been okay.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...