Jump to content

Completed installation


Recommended Posts

Posted

Finally completed the installation of my system for now.  Installed sound deadening in the doors a couple of weeks ago and spent three days this last weekend stripping out the interior and installing sound deadening on the floor and backwall.  Installed two jbl amps on the back wall, BP1200.1 for the sub, and a 180.2 for the front components.

 

Installed Rainbow pro 6.5 components in the front door and a 10" Adire Brahma sub in a sealed box firing forward under the drivers side rear seat.  I'm using an adjustable line driver from Navone engineering to interface between the stock cd player and the amplifiers.

 

It sounds great, still need to play with the adjustments to get the most from the system, but I ran out of time.  Haven't decided about replacing the head unit yet, we'll see.  I've read a couple of reviews about the stock delco head unit and the signal to noise ratio is about the same as aftermarket decks, but you do get more adjustments and features on aftermarket decks, but when you replace them you blow a  stealth installation out of the water.  You can't really see anything different in my installation from the stock installation.

 

The sub is installed in a .5 cu. ft. box before displacement and it sound great, so far couldn't be happier.

Posted

sounds like you have a nice system going so far.

 

pulling the interior out of anything is a pain. i did it in the 89 doing its system. after that i didn't mess with anything for about 6 months. in some older car i've seen people set the aftermarket HU back into the dash then removed the face off the stock HU and use it as a cover when the car is parted and poof, instant stock radio again. but that will only do so much. if it can even be done in the newer truck dashes. in my 95 i could barely fir the monitor into the dash so. anyways. if you drive around in parking lots or any other busy place "bumpin" your stereo that just gives away any stealth you had.

Posted

Hey mikeb, do you have any pics of the install?  I was wondering how you mounted your amps to the wall of the cab?  Did you use self tapping screws?  I was curious of how much room behind the seat there is for amp mounting.  I just wanted to be sure and not drill through the cab  :0

Posted

Yea tearing out the interior wasn't too bad, but applying the sound deadening to everything took a lot of time, the system install wasn't that bad.  Too bad I choose the wrong time to install, I took a trip up to my dads house and did it in his driveway, put the parts in the garage.  Three 100 degree days in a row, only good thing was they had a breeze blowing for the three days.

 

My exact thoughts on removing the face of the head unit and covering a new head unit up.  Just hate destroying a perfectly good head unit to do it.  Wish I could find a broken stock unit to experiment on.  They have some nice motorized head units that flip around and hide, then you could velcro the stock face on.

Posted

Don't have a digital camera, but I did take some pictures and when I get them developed I'll try and post them or I can email you a couple.  I used a piece or 3/8" subflooring material very dense stuff.  I used a couple of angle brackets at the top and a couple of self tappers on each bracket.  The brackets are mounted to the double wall part of the rear wall up by the top, did'nt want to go through the exterior wall either.  It worked really well. What I want to do eventually is installing a 1/4" black adonized aluminum plate for the rack, then I can tig weld brackets to the plate and make it look like on piece.  

 

Right now the two top brackets are all I have holding the rack because I was at my dads and didn't have access to material to fabricate a couple of 'L' brackets for the bottom, but it's very secure like it is for now.  

 

There's more than enough room to mount a couple of amps behind the rear seat, but I can't raise the seat all the way up anymore because of the middle cable support for the seat will hit the amps if the seat is raised all the way, going to remove the seat again and space the amps out a couple of inches and then it will clear no problem.  That's why I used the wood for the amp rack so I can change things around a little before getting the final layout and making the aluminum plate.

Posted

Thanks for the info mikeb!! :D  Was just lookin at doing the same thing.  Seems like mounting the amps lower on the rear wall will help with the seat clearance problem, and still maintain stealth appearance.

Posted

i dont know if this was mentioned in the post becuase im too lazy to read it all, but AC Delco puts limiters on their headunits to cap off the extreme highs and lows.  They do this so that the owner won't blow out the stock speakers.  Getting a new headunit would greatly improve the range of your audio setup.  Congrats on install.

 

Ben

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 2 Anonymous, 792 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...