Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

During spring cleaning I discovered the felt under the rubber flooring (W/T model) is dripping wet. Only the drivers side. 1st time this occurred was from an open window and monsoon rain. At least this was when I discovered the wetness.

This time it could be the winter slush. I still use a floor mat with a deep pattern to hold most of the water. Is this all getting in from the sill area?

OR does the parking break cable grommet leak? It looks water tight.

I have already had to do some rust control painting under the sill and wiring harness but the paint is breaking down on the floor pan. Not surprised GM did a recall to cut away the sound underlay from near the seat sensors.

Looking for new ideas for causes and more permanent fixes. Thanks everyone.

Posted
During spring cleaning I discovered the felt under the rubber flooring (W/T model) is dripping wet. Only the drivers side. 1st time this occurred was from an open window and monsoon rain. At least this was when I discovered the wetness.

This time it could be the winter slush. I still use a floor mat with a deep pattern to hold most of the water. Is this all getting in from the sill area?

OR does the parking break cable grommet leak? It looks water tight.

I have already had to do some rust control painting under the sill and wiring harness but the paint is breaking down on the floor pan. Not surprised GM did a recall to cut away the sound underlay from near the seat sensors.

Looking for new ideas for causes and more permanent fixes. Thanks everyone.

Bed liner.

 

Spray/roll it in as think as you can, in multiple thin layers. Prep with 80-220 grit sand paper and alcohol or approved thinner. It will deaden the sound and fix your moisture and rust issue. Toss the rubber flooring over it or leave it out... either way is good...and IMO it looks as good, or better than the rubber floor anyway.

Not to mention, you will see exactly whats leaking on your floor if anything is.

Posted

is that stuff available in small quantities - enough for the drivers side floor? I was thinking of chopping away as much of the underlay as posible.

Thanks for the tip, SF

Posted

Had any work done to the windshield or back glass? I've had both leak under that mat in an older truck. And the biggest problem is you can't see where it is coming from.

Posted
is that stuff available in small quantities - enough for the drivers side floor? I was thinking of chopping away as much of the underlay as posible.

Thanks for the tip, SF

Yeah, you just go buy a can of it. I would do the whole floor though man....you'll be surprised how much quieter your cab will get.

 

Take out your seats, floor covering....everything....than roll or spray away.

 

You can do gator guard, dupont with kevlar, duraliner...there are a lot of DIY kits out there. Enough to do the whole bed....but if you let it dry well, you can put the whole thing on the floor of the cab, around a 1/4 inch thick or so.

 

Roller and foam brush is the easiest way to do it BTW. You can put it on, and not have to tape up everything.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,180 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...