Jump to content

thermostat ?


Recommended Posts

Posted
hi all. i have a 2001 5.3 x-cab Z71 w/little mods. one of the mods i have done is to cut one side of the air box out which helped part throttle but now i have a lean condition at WOT.   now, what i have heard is if the 190 degree thermostat is swapped out for a 160 degree themostat, the computer will richen the fuel mixture. is this so? if so, would it affect any other systems in a negative way? thanks all.
Posted

Some info I got from the LS1 forum:

 

The LS1 guys had the 160 vs 180 thermostat issue come up and the recommendation was: (different numbers, similar idea)

 

"The 180 thermostat will not change your temperature much at all, so if you want cooler running temps go with the 160 thermo. In order to take full advantage of a colder thermostat, you must have your fan settings set to come on sooner. A thermostat opens at the given coolant temperature (i.e. - 160* for a 160* thermostat), sending coolant to the block earlier or later. It does not directly lower operating temperatures. With the stock fan settings and a colder thermostat, the engine will run cooler on the highway, but as soon as you get stuck in traffic, even for a short time, the temp will creep back up again."

 

and

 

" I put a colder thermostat in my car and the gauge reads the same temperature as before! What happened?

 

Answer: If you've taken the steps to modify the fan settings (such as the HPP3) then you should see a difference in the temperature gauge if you have a 98 F-body. If you've got a 99 or newer, you must keep in mind that the gauge is not accurate enough to show a drop in running temps. It is set up to go to a preset level and stay there even if the operating temperature varies by 15-20F. The 98 gauges will fluctuate as the temperature goes up and down, and GM felt that new car owners might be alarmed with this happening. In essence, the 99 and newer coolant gauge is little more than an idiot light."

 

 

How can I modify my stock thermostat to open sooner?

 

"How to make your own custom thermostat

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat.htm

 

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat_files/image001.jpg

 

The thermostats on the 98+ LS1 engines are designed in one piece which includes the outer casing.

 

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat_files/image003.jpg

 

The thermostat can easily be dismantled by twisting out the upper portion that holds the springs down as shown.

 

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat_files/image004.jpg

 

The wax which controls the opening and closing of the thermostat through it's expansion if inside the casing. You'll notice the channel at the bottom of the casing.

 

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat_files/image005.jpg

 

Here you can see how the plunger which controls the opening and closing of the valve falls into this channel.

 

http://www.ls1.com/customthermostat_files/image006.jpg

 

To make the thermostat opening earlier it is quite simple. All we need to do is make the plunger longer causing the wax to open it earlier. This can be accomplished by placing a spacer at the bottom of the channel where the plunger sits. People have found that using a spacer of .06 - .09 will yield a thermostat which will open between 172-180 degrees.

 

May not be the final answer to your question. But, may give you something to consider.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 700 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...