Jump to content

Towing Problms


diesel04

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi I asked before on this forum about changing the gears in the rear end of my truck. was suggest to change to a 410 rear end. Question I have if I do not what will happen? I am pulling a travel trailer weighing about 7400 loaded and have a 07 Chevrolet 1/2 ton with 5.3, and a 4 speed trans and a 342 rear end. I found only one person to change it and he said if it was his he would not do it. I only use maybe once every 2 months and mostly on flat land.

Posted

You could go that way, but given the frequency towing and the fact that you arent towing in the mountains or anything, it may not be worth it. The only other question I have is how long of a trip are you making with the trailer?

 

That weight is getting on up there, but as long as you keep some commons sence practices when towing, you should be OK. Use your Tow/Haul, and keep your speed down to around 55mph and it will have no trouble.

 

The only reason to regear in your situation would be to make it easier on the trans by bot having to hunt a gear. I have the same setup in my 05, and if I keep it to 55, then she will rock along in OD with no problem. But if I try to maintain 70mph, then it will constantly jump back and forth from 3 to 4.

 

If you did want to regear, I wouldnt go with a 4.10 unless you tow all the time, or plan on running larger tires. Ide go with a 3.73 if you just tow occasionally. The swap will cost the same, but it will save you some gas over the 4.10 when unloaded, but still give you a little extra grunt when towing ot hauling.

 

But again, the difference you will notice may not be worth the cost of the swap.

Posted

Going to a shorter gear tends to gain FE while towing and the city unloaded . Highway unloaded may go down, less than 10%.

 

$1500 for 4WD and $500-750 for 2WD.

 

3.42->3.72 is a waste of money.

3.42->4.10 is a good jump for the 5.3L. It likes to sing, so let it.

 

I would pull it with what you got first. Then you can determine how well YOU like the experience. Gotta establish a baseline, point of reference.

 

My current setup, I would like 4.10 axle and have 3.73 now. The engine likes 2800rpm better than 2400rpm, even if it means 10mph faster. But each engine/tire/gear/axle and load/TT is unique. 4.56 would be interesting for me, not sure I could hold 4th gear then. But now that I've tested 3 different vehicles/engines and 6-spd trans, I won't spend the money on current 4-spd truck.

Posted

I towed pretty heavy with my 04 1/2 ton and would just use tow haul mode in 3rd gear. Never had any issues. Roughly 7k lbs. and 200-300 miles approx. 10-12 times per year. I had 3:73 gears but they are not "that much" different than your set up.

Posted

I have been towing this trailer I stay around 55-65 mph. The truck pulls well I do not try to speed when pulling the trailer. I was looking to change the rear end, but I only found one person that would do it and he said he wouldn't if it was his. I have a lot of questions about this. I do not want to be tearing up the transmission, and or the truck. Being that should I be looking to go to a 3/4 ton truck. The reason I ask this I am at 13400 GCVW. I am using a Equilize 4 point Hitch. Which really helps out. I see on some other forum's that some people pull a lot smaller trailer and use a 3/4 ton truck. I have to say for the weight I am pulling Chevrolet makes a reallly good truck. If I didn't get another truck should I put a larger transmission cooler, and air bags. If I did this would this help out anymore. One last question If I do all this at the end what will I end up with? I have come up that every body has an answer. and I would like to hear froma lot of ou all Thanks Ed

Posted
I have been towing this trailer I stay around 55-65 mph. The truck pulls well I do not try to speed when pulling the trailer. I was looking to change the rear end, but I only found one person that would do it and he said he wouldn't if it was his. I have a lot of questions about this. I do not want to be tearing up the transmission, and or the truck. Being that should I be looking to go to a 3/4 ton truck. The reason I ask this I am at 13400 GCVW. I am using a Equilize 4 point Hitch. Which really helps out. I see on some other forum's that some people pull a lot smaller trailer and use a 3/4 ton truck. I have to say for the weight I am pulling Chevrolet makes a reallly good truck. If I didn't get another truck should I put a larger transmission cooler, and air bags. If I did this would this help out anymore. One last question If I do all this at the end what will I end up with? I have come up that every body has an answer. and I would like to hear froma lot of ou all Thanks Ed

 

What trans temps are you seeing now?

Posted

Tranmission running from 185 to 210. I let the engine warm up and tranmission before I start to move. The Engine is at 210 and tran over 100 sometime's it is up to 150. I always use the towing mode when pulling the trailer. If the weather is cooler it run's cooler. 2 weeks ago 95 outside pulling nerver dropped below 196.I was running btween 60-65 MPH. I never tried putting it in 3rd gear like someone mention in a post. The most we have pulled it is about 175 miles so far. With out the trailer the tran get's up to 165 during the summer. The truck has just under 31,000 miles on it.

Posted

If your trans isn't "hunting" between 3rd and 4th you should be ok leaving it drive. My 04 would "hunt" between gears so I just left it in 3rd. Your trans temps seem ok. Do you have a good brake controller?

 

I think bottom line is, would a 3/4 ton be better? Heck yes. However with the limited towing you said you were doing at the moment and the relatively short distances; your 1/2 ton will likely live a very long life assuming its maintained properly.

 

This is just my opinion, no doubt someone will be a long and tell me I'm nuts for saying 11k plus GCWR is ok on a half ton. Good trailer brakes, brake controller, keep the trans temps in check, and service the fluids regularly.

Posted
If your trans isn't "hunting" between 3rd and 4th you should be ok leaving it drive. My 04 would "hunt" between gears so I just left it in 3rd.

 

^X2

Posted

Thank you all for your time. Looks like I am ok for a while but I see something bigger coming in the future. I still say Chevrolet make's a Good Truck. I can't believe the prices of 3/4 over a 1/2 ton truck.

Posted

I wouldn't switch to 4:11s. You wouldn't like it when you aren't towing, cruising down the highway @ 75MPH will have your engine singing.. Installing a new ring & pinion is pretty tricky business and you'd better have a lot of confidence in the tech. If he doesn't know how to set it up right, you will be big time sorry that you ever touched it.

 

I would sell the truck and buy a 3/4T before I dropped $800 into a truck that I know is not the right truck for what I'm towing anyway. Chances are, you'll be selling it soon anyway. That's a lot of weight for any 1500. I know that my truck wouldn't handle it and not just because I have 3.23 gears. I'd just drop it into 2nd and run 60MPH @ 3600RPM if necessary. I do that now with my 4000# trailer when I'm on a 6+% grade (but I don't have the wind resistance that you do).

Posted

75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 3.42 is 1883rpm

75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 4.11 is 2263rpm

 

2263rpm is not high for the 5.3L.

 

But I'd pull it with what you got and invest the money on a heavier duty truck in the future.

Posted
75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 3.42 is 1883rpm

75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 4.11 is 2263rpm

 

2263rpm is not high for the 5.3L.

But I'd pull it with what you got and invest the money on a heavier duty truck in the future.

 

 

Maybe not from a durability standpoint, or speaking in terms of power, but in fuel mileage it is. If you dont keep it under 2K, then you can kiss your MPG goodbye. On my truck, the difference between 1800 and 2200 RPM equals about 3 - 4 MPG. Thats just with the 5.3. I wont even get started on the 6.0.

Posted
75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 3.42 is 1883rpm

75mph, 4spd trans, 4th gear, 4.11 is 2263rpm

 

2263rpm is not high for the 5.3L.

But I'd pull it with what you got and invest the money on a heavier duty truck in the future.

 

 

Maybe not from a durability standpoint, or speaking in terms of power, but in fuel mileage it is. If you dont keep it under 2K, then you can kiss your MPG goodbye. On my truck, the difference between 1800 and 2200 RPM equals about 3 - 4 MPG. Thats just with the 5.3. I wont even get started on the 6.0.

 

 

Empty I agree, at that speed towing a 7,000lb brick it doesnt hurt fuel economy at any noticeable level. Towing 7k though the hills (small southern Ohio hills) 3rd gear worked best for me with a 3:73 4 speed. I tried towing in 4th a couple times and lost mileage actually and feared for the trans because it was hunting. Just my experience.

 

On Edit: If I remember correctly I was holding near or a touch above 3k rpm's

Posted
On my truck, the difference between 1800 and 2200 RPM equals about 3 - 4 MPG.

 

You've done this with different gearing to compare? Because 2200rpm is 22% higher speed with the same geared truck, or 85mph vs. 70mph. That will cost 3-4mpg in aero drag. It's not much different than those with 6-spds running in 5th gear vs. 6th. How much FE difference are those people getting unloaded?

 

It's a tradeoff for sure or you'd have a 1-ton diesel. 7400 pounds loaded (i hope not the MFR dry rating) is just below, at or above your tow rating. That's into 3/4 ton duty for payload with a family and camping "stuff" in the bed. Save the regear money for a higher rated truck in the next year or two. Drive carefully and load lightly until then. This is from someone who is in a very similar situation.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...