01 Silverado 2500HD stalling

[Haze]

I have a 2001 Silverado 2500HD with a 6.0L V8 and 135000 miles. The truck used to crank right up first time every time, but lately its taking 2 or 3 tries. Sometimes it runs great and other times it lacks power, or stalls. I changed the fuel filter, air filter, and plugs less than two months ago and it ran better for a while but she stalled out on the way to work last week and would not restart. I got a buddy to help me pull it back home, tried it again and it started right up. I suspect it's the fuel pump, but figured I'd see if anyone else is experiencing similar issues before I drop the tank.

 

What pressure should it have?

[txab]

Believe it to be 55-62 key on engine off. Also check the fuel pressure regulator for presence of fuel at the vacuum line

[Haze]

I did check the regulator and it's dry but I don't see a significant increase in pressure when I pull the vacuum line off as some have described. I bought a fuel pressure gauge and this is what I found.

 

Key On: it reads 28 psi

Running: The needle is violently "bouncing" between 30 and 40 psi

Off: the pressure actually RISES to about 45 psi after a half hour (makes me think clogged filter - but still very low pressure)

 

I guess I'll be replacing the pump and filter.

 

Any nuggets of knowledge from you guys that have dropped the tank on one of these trucks?

[Chris]

Pulling the bed makes it easier.

[Haze]

I thought about that, but I've got a hidden goosneck hitch. I don't know if pulling the bed would be any easier.

[Gear Jammer]

Pulled the bed on my 01 last year to do a fuel pump. I also have a hidden goose neck hitch. It was only a matter of four more bolts for me.Had a friend help me lift the bed and sat the front of the bed on the rear tires and the rear sat neatly on the bumper.Plenty of room to work.

[Haze]

OK here's the latest update. I pulled the bed off last night and replaced the pump this morning. It's really a simple process to remove the bed as chawkins6789 and Gear Jammer said. The video's floating around the web are not much help. In this process I discovered an abundance of misinformation on the web, (at least for 01-02 2500HD's). Here's what you need to know.

 

The filler neck only has 2 torx head screws and 1 plastic push pin securing it to the bed. Take a small flat head and pry the center out on the push pin at the bottom of the filler and revome it, remove the 2 torx screws from the top of the filler. The ground cable is attached to the filler neck NOT the bed and does not need to be removed. The bed is attaceh to the frame with 8 bolts. You have 4 down each side, the front bolts are outside of the frame rail, the rear bolts are inside the frame rail. It helps to remove the spare tire to gain access to 2 of the rear bolts. The wiring harness plugs into a distribution block mounted to the underside of the bed. Unplug the main harness and the one going to the bumper. You do NOT have to remove tail lights or the tail light harnesses. You'll need an 18mm socket, a couple of extensions, a good ratchet, and probably a breaker bar...If you have an impact wrench you won't even break a sweat. Remove the tailgate, and the bed can be lifted off easily by four people. Honestly, two could lift it but it's a little cumbersome so the extra hands make it easier.

 

I chose to use a rebuild kit rather than replace the entire assembly. The kit includes a new pump, filters, grommets, fuel hose, a couple of clamps, and a pigtail that for my app was not needed. Once the bed was removed I had it fixed in about a half hour and it only cost about $50! If you're reading this you know that's a huge savings over the entire assembly. If you choose to go this route, just be carefull not to damage the tank seal or the fuel level sending unit as they will be reused. The pump housing is held together by 2 plastic tabs, be gentle with them. The internal wiring harness has a red plastic keeper that must be removed to disconnect. You pull the old pump out of the housing, snap the filters and grommets in place, slide the new pump in the housing and plug it in. The only remotely difficult part was installing the new plastic fuel hose. I did this on a cold day so the plastic was faily hard. A heat gun on LOW will help soften it enough to go over the barbed fittings.

 

After the rebuild I have about 55psi at key on, about 55psi running, an hour after key off is just over 40psi, and when I pull the vacuum off at the regulator it jumps to 62psi. It starts right up, has good throttle response, and didn't break the bank, so I'm a very happy man!

 

Thanks guys for all your help. Hopefully this info will help the next guy too.