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"Green Keys" installed - my opinions


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I just installed the GM green key in my 03 2500HD CC. I've read all the other post and opinions people had, so here are mine.

 

I think the ride was significantly affected. Much stiffer and harsh. However, the handling is much improved. The body roll is significantly reduced and the truck feels much more stable during turns at speed.

 

I first had attempted the install and was able to get the old key out, but couldn't get the new key in. The tools I had just weren't heavy duty enough. I ended up having them installed by my corner auto shop. But what I did observe was that I can't see the difference from cranking the stock keys, adding new keys, or putting a longer bolt in the key. They all appear to do exactly the same thing. I know some have commented that there is a differnece and that the ride is better with the keys than turning the bolts. But I disagree.

 

For the record, I added 2" to the front. The bolts are backed off from their original position.

 

Can anyone suggest a way to improve the ride but maintain the ride height? Would adjustable shocks help? Soften it up to improve the ride and tighten them down when under load.

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Sorry to hear they didn't work for you. I have them in mine and lifted 2" with no problem with the ride. Not even close to the harshness of cranking the bars! I was comparing the ride to a stock truck the other day and I would say it was a little stiffer (15%-20%) but not much. The handling is greatly improved too.

 

I don't think shocks will help you out very much for what you are looking for. What tires are you running and what air pressure? Other than tires making a little difference, I'm not sure what will help ya out! Sorry!

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I'll take a look at it some more to make sure everything is OK. I need to back the screws off a little bit more to get it level. Hopefully that will help a little. I still have the stock 245/75/16 tires on. Not sure of the air pressure.

 

My main goal was just to level out the truck. The handling was a bonus. I actually thought the stock ride was little soft, so stiffing a little was desireable, but this was a little too musch.

 

Is it possbile that I am hitting the bump stops? Or that I am "topping out" the shocks? Maybe somethine is binding in the suspension and not allowing it to travel correctly.

 

I litteraly get tossed out of my seat over even jsut a small bump.

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Your right! Changing the keys is equivalent to a longer bolt or tightening the stock ones all the way. The diiference is that you can go a little farther before the top of the key hits the top off the crossmember. If your noticing a difference in ride its because your upper a-arms are now so steep that your tires dont have as large of a moment arm as before. In other words your not getting as much torque on the torsion bars. Follow the link and Ill draw a diagram and then youll understand everything. Ill put it on the top of the page. Then you can read the torsion bar explained section as well.

 

My Webpage

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I found that if I went over 2" the ride was very bouncy and would bounce you out of the seat. Bouncy not stiff! I backed them off for 2" of lift and the ride was right. I couldn't get level at 2.5" but 2" worked for me. Try backing them off and lowering it 1/4" at a time and see if the ride improves. If your back to the same unlevel stance as stock or only 1" of lift, then why bother with them.

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Another thing that it could be is that your hitting your bumpstops at that height. I had to remove mine. Check those for clearance and maybe get some low profile ones. Also check to see if you shocks are long enough by unbolting the bottom bolt and making sure that when the truck is jacked up the shock still reaches. It could be bottoming out in which case you would only need longer shocks. Also you may want to check your tie rod ends in the same fashion. Jack it up and unbolt them to make sure they reach. The ball joints on those tie rod to centerlink joint only go so far. They may be at there limit which is really dangerous. They could snap and you wouldnt be able to steer.

 

I finished the intro to engineering on my page. Its all about the a-arms and torsion bars. You might want to check it out.

 

intro to engineering

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  • 4 weeks later...

I have been preaching for 2 years or more about the effects of cranking the torson bars or changing the adjusting keys.

 

They do exactly the same thing, only further up.

 

The stiff ride is caused from bottoming out on the bump stops. You can have them cut off, then the ride will be the same as stock only higher. But if you or the one cutting them off don't know what you are doing, you could destroy the front end.

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  • 5 months later...

I would say the ride is due to shocks topping out. Mine got really bouncy after key install, so I found some 2 inch longer RSX shocks and it has been great. No wallowy feel, not any stiffer ride than a 3/4 ton is stock. Feels just right to me..

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I had a similar experience with my truck after cranking the bars up. I went up 9 turns with about 2 1/4" at first, after being bounced around I lowered them down to 6 turns. It was like night and day. Ended up with around 1 3/4" of lift. I also cut the bumpstops and lowered them about an inch from their normal position. My stock shocks also only had an inch of downtravel left, so I replaced them with longer shocks. Been like this for 25K miles and no problems. Chris

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When I added the Yokohama 285's my ride got too soft and I cranked the t-bars up 2 inches. This gave me the firm ride back. I would suggest you get some tires to match your new lift besides the stock 245's just look stupid on our HD's!!! For some good info on t-bars check out n8scstm web page :cheers:

 

good luck

Matt :cheers:

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Wow, you guys dug this thread up. That is the basic plan. New Shocks, new wheels and going to 285s. Just haven't gotten around to it yet. Nice to know you guys have had positive results. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Thanks.

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