need accurate info.

alaskan1 · August 27, 2003

Presently own a Dodge 1500 with a 318, towing is terrible and so is fuel mileage. I'm buying a new truck and have a few questions. Maybe you can help. I have a cabin 100 miles away and go there on weekends, sometimes empty, sometimes with 1000 pounds, sometimes with a 5 snowmachime trailer loaded. I hear such a wide range of mileage stories. Has anyone used a calculator? empty? towing?

What is the difference in Chevorlet vs. GMC trucks?

Does the tow package electrical connector come with provisions for electric trailer brakes? with a wire to charge the trailer battery?

Must fit vehicle in garage.......anyone know if a crew cab short box is longer than the Dodge short extended cab? How much?

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BlackSilver · August 27, 2003

Your mileage will depend on the truck you buy --- which engine 5.3, 6.0 - 8.1 - duramax, which tranny, which rear end, 2WD vs 4WD. For the loads you describe, I'd be inclined toward a 1500 with 5.3L, auto, and 3.73 rear. Your empty mileage would be in the range of 16-18MPG, and towing the sleds in the range of 11-14MPG, and you'd have excellent performance.

I guess I'm saying that a 2500HD, which is the smallest platform you can get a Duramax in, would be overkill for your application. Great truck if you need that kind of capacity, so don't let me talk you out of anything. My Duramax gets around 21MPG empty at speedlimit freeway driving, and pulling a 2,000# boat it's down around 17MPG. Pulling a 5th wheel camper and it's down around 13MPG.

There is no mechanical difference between equivalent equipped Chev or GMC --- NONE --- they are precisely the same truck with different front end sheet metal and plastic trim parts.

The tow package comes with provision for electric brakes (you do need to buy a brake controller) and has a fused wire for charging the trailer battery.

You can compare literature to figure out dimensions between different brands (Dodge/Chev/Ford). All I know is that a crew cab is a looooooooong sumabitch! I have enuf trouble maneuvering my ext-cab, which is about a foot shorter than a CC SB.

c5hd · August 28, 2003

I have an 03 CC Duramax. The computer has 3 differnet MPG guages. Business, personal, and overall. I am currently averaging 22.5 MPG empty (personal). I drive about 70 miles/day. When I tow, an open trailer and corvette (~4500lb) I set it to business and I have been getting 20 MPG.

I have a predator programmer, set on the conservative performance setting. The truck is FAST and probably adds to the MPG.

I also added a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller with the 2003 wiring harness. Plugged right into the distrubution block under the dash. Probably the easiest thing I have ever installed.

You can't go wrong with this truck.

I looked up the dimensions of the trucks, the new dodge quad is 227.7"

The Chevy Crew is 237.2.

alaskan1 · August 28, 2003

Thanks! you guys answered all my questions.

bigdogs · September 18, 2003

I'm also curious as to adding a brake controller to my '03 Sierra and what all is involved with wiring it up. Right now it has the factory RV connector in the back (wish it also had a 4 pin so didn't need the adaptor) but never have needed trailer brakes for the small ATV trailer. We may be getting a horse trailer and that I think requires an electric brake controller and I'm not sure what all that entails.

Thanks

LARSONEM · September 18, 2003

BlackSilver is probably right in that a 5.3L with 3.73 axle would probably do a good job hauling sleds. I think his mileage figure is over stated. I don't believe that the EPA ratings on the window sticker are that high either, something like 15-17. When I had my 1500 with that powertrain configuration, I averaged 14-15 driving around town, 16-17 all highway and 8.5-9.0 hauling my 5500 pound travel trailer and I was constantly hammering on the truck to pull the trailer.

Now I've switched to a 2500HD CC SB with D/A. Town driving 15-16, highway 17-18 and towing 10-11. I really have to question mileage figures that are considerably higher. We've had disputes over mileage on these threads before and I've been told my driving style is harsh as to why my mileage figures are so much lower. I don't believe that. I'm not a old lady driver, but not on the Indy track either. Anyway, ya get what you get in terms of mpg and when the tank is empty you have to fill it up if you want to go any farther.

As for the crew cab, I personally thought I'd never have a true 4 door pickup. It is big. 9.5 inches longer in the wheel base than a extended cab short box, which is about 10 inches longer in wheel base than a regular cab with a long box. I've had several regular cab long box configurations before I had my first extended cab short box. 10 inches of wheel base makes a difference in being able to maneuver. I've had two Ext Cab SB trucks before going to the crew cab. The extra 9.5 inches of wheel base doesn't do it any favors. Look for lots of parking space in the lots. I've also gotten pinched in a campground a couple of times in a tighter situation than I wanted to be in when it comes to parking my trailer, but it's always worked out. I've got a 32 foot travel trailer. In a 5th wheel application this would be easier to maneuver because the overall length is shorter. I opted for the crew cab because using it for a family vehicle on camping trips gives my girls the extra room they need to be comfortable. My 12 year old is 5'7'' and was riding in the back of the Ext Cab with her knees under her chin. It just plain wasn't comfortable for her to have to go far. Also I like them having their own door. They can get in and out on their own free will without having to open/close the front door first. As for parking in the garage, mine is 26 feet long and there is still room for bicycles in front of the truck.

All trucks have advantages/disadvantages. I buy GM (Chevrolet) because I can get the best deal on one. The GM family of engines is great. Even though it's over kill to go with the diesel, if money isn't an issue you won't regret the power.

LARSONEM · September 18, 2003

Bigdogs - putting in a brake controller is easy. The truck is all wired front to back for it. You just need a jumper harness from the dealer (or trailer company). Just make sure it is for a 2003. For the 1999-2002 trucks the harness looks the same and the plug is the same and it plugs into the same location, however the wires are switched internally in it (the running lights and brake light feed are switched). This will cause activation of the brake controller whenever the running lights come on as opposed to when you step on the brake pedal. The wires in the jumper harness are easy to switch. If you have a pre 2003 jumper harness, the GM Garage has a bulletin they can look up as to which two wires to change (this is a non-warranty fix). To get power to the hot lead in the back for a trailer battery, you have to add a fuse in the underhood fuse box (there is a dummy or blank in that space now as it comes from the factory).

bigdogs · September 18, 2003

Thanks LARSONEM for your instructions on how to hook one up. Where does this harness conect into on the truck? The only "trailer connection" I have seen so far is the one on the hitch.

Another (stupid) question, how hard is it to move the brake controller from one truck to another? I have a 2003 Sierra and my wife has a 2000 Silverado. From what you said the jumper harness will be different but other than that, can the controller itself be easily moved from one truck to the other?

Thanks

LARSONEM · September 18, 2003

Look under the dash and near the floor to the left of the brake pedal there is a plastic box with wires feeding into it. It has a plastic nut going over a stud. Remove this nut (it's just finger tight so you don't need any wrenches) and then remove the cover. If I remember right, the trailer jumper plugs into the top row and I think it's the second one over from the left. There is a decal on the back of the cover that identifies the all the harnesses in the box.

Moving the brake controller from one vehicle to the other is simple. There are usually four wires on it that need to be connected, but you must know what they are for in order to hook it to the jumper harness. Usually you will find a fused input source providing uninterrupted power to the controller, an input from the brake pedal switch, an output to the trailer brakes and a ground. Depending upon your controller, it may/may not have an instrument panel/running lights on it. Mine does not. I have mine screwed to the underside of the dash. There is a steel bar that runs along the bottom of the dash. I've got mine mounted here directly above the accelerator pedal which causes minimual interference in the cab in terms of getting in/out of the vehicle, bumping it with your legs etc. As for the metal bar, a couple of sheet metal screws holds it in place and doesn't disfigure the face of the lower dash. If you get rid of the vehicle, the controller can be moved and probably no one will know the difference.

If your wife has a 2000 Silverado with a Heavy Duty Factory Trailering package in it, there should be a harness in the Silverado. It may be located in the glove box or center console. I believe GM quit supplying the harness at the conclusion of the 2002 model year. They are available from the dealer for about $20. Trailer dealers probably carry them too, although again watch out for 1999-2002 and 2003 differences. You can modify a pre 2003 harness pretty easily. There is a retainer clip on the short side of the harness that runs like a romax wire staple lengthwise through the harness. Take a small screwdriver and pull this out. The wires are identified on a piece of tape or a card on the harness. You need need to swap the instrument panel and brake switch input feed wires. Take the same small screwdriver and release the two individual wires from where they leave the plug and put them in the new locations. They will snap back in place. Put the retainer clip back in place and you should be all set.

bigdogs · September 19, 2003

Thanks again LARSONEM for all your help on explaining this to me. I have a little Snowbear trailer I got at Home Depot to tow my Polaris around but that is only 4 wire connector and never needed a brake controller so never looked into it. If we get the horse trailer, I think the weight of that plus the 2 horses in there will definitely require it.

As for the 2000 it was bought used so if there was a harness in the glovebox it is probably long gone by now. I would think those are not too expensive to replace tho.